Neohet

Thanks for the offer Chris. Yeh, you're right, I am in the UK , unfortunatly I can't afford that much at the moment even though it sounds like a bargain for such an awsome guitar. Also, as the guy says in the description "hard to find these guitars that work" I'd be a bit aprehensive about spending so much. That was my first thought when I read the blurb from the user's manual (alot to go wrong). I trained as an electronics service engineer about 15 years ago and I'm considering building some electronics, like onboad effects etc. into my next project, that's why I was intersted if anybody new anything about this guitar. I love the look of the Bond, think I might build something similar but with less complicated electronics Keep you posted if I do. Thank again for the help. Regards, Matt.

Thanks for that Chris. I Googled 'Bond Guitar' and found out it's actualy called a 'Bond Electraglide'. I found one for sale over here for £3500 ($6000 US) : Bond Electraglide Then found that one was recently sold on e-Bay for just £486 ($832 US) Lucky B*****D For anybody else that's interested, here's aparantly what the user manual says: The truly innovative features include: Stepped "sculpted" fingerboard (instead of metal frets) for a superfast ultra low action and a genuinely unique playing experience. Black carbon fibre (graphite) "all in one" construction for fantastic tuning stability - unlike wood the material is unaffected by normal temperature or humidity changes. Active electronic controls all monitored by a fabulous colour-coded "Traffic Light" L.E.D readout. 3 single coil pick-ups that can be utilised individually, or in any combination both in or out of phase. "The electronic circuitry allows the player to choose any combination of pickup selection, phasing and tone. The tonal and dynamic range of the ELECTRAGLIDE is greater than the traditional guitar and the player can easily and accurately recreate any particular tonal effect by noting the pickup setting and the digital read-out display. You can select any pickup by lightly pressing the appropriate switch. The read-out screen will show whether the pickup is ON or OFF. If you use two or three pickups you can create a wide range of tonal effects by pressing one or both of the phase controls. There is no phase switch for the middle pickup because all combinations of pickup phasing can be chosen with the two switches. The three rocker switches which control the volume treble and bass responses of the pickups each have a coloured LED below them. Red for volume, YELLOW for treble and GREEN for bass. These switches can be set from zero to nine and the read-out screen will show the setting for each control in its appropriate colour. For instance, if the volume is set to seven the number 7 will appear in red on the screen. The treble and bass controls each have a range of +/- 10dB’s in 2dB steps with the middle of their range at setting four." Still don't know if the numeric keypad was a mod that Mick Jones had fitted or what it was for, maybe it was so he could phone a technician if it all went wrong Thanks for the replies, Matt.

Back in the 80's I was into a band called 'Big Audio Dynamite'. Probably their most well known hit being 'E=MC squared'. Anyone remember them? Anyway, the lead singer/Guitarist (Mick Jones Formerly of 'Clash') used to have an SG type guitar. A picture from their '86 Brixton gig shows him with this guitar: Mick Jones at Brixton Now the thing is, on the cover of their '86 album 'No. 10 Upping Street', He's shown holding what seems to be the same guitar, only now it has what looks like a numeric keypad fitted behind the bridge : No. 10 Upping Street Cover You can't see it very clearly on this web image but I have the LP on vynyl and It definatly looks like a keypad. Anybody seen one of these on a guitar or built one into a custom project?, anyone know or have any ideas what it's for? Regards, Matt.

Wonder if this method was discovered by accident, i.e. in the middle of a gig? Matt.

I just checked the tutorial page you mention, and non of the links to tutorials by Steven Kirsting work, so he's probably moved them. But I think if you still want to report it, if you click on 'My Assistant', then 'the moderating team' and PM one of the 'global moderators' they may be able to help. Regards, Matt.

Probably stating the obvious here but if you decide to remove the tape BE VERY CAREFULL, if you brake any of those little wires that are stuck to it the PUP is B*****D. They weren't already broken were thay? Regards, Matt.

How bad is the rust? Have you tried 'Brasso', it usually works on pin-prick type rust on chrome, just wipe it on leave for a few minutes then pollish off. BTW how did you come up with your user-name? Are you a Radiographer or just called Ray? I ask because I'm an N.D.T. Radiographer. Regards, Matt.

Thanks for that GuitarGuy, I thought as much, guess I'll just have to be patient I'd still like to know if I should sand back at this point or carry on building up the thickness, and if I should wait for the current coats to harden fully, i.e weeks rather than days? Regards, Matt.

Hi guys, I am currently 'finishing'? my first project - an old Strat 'style' guitar that my girlfriend bought for £10 years ago and then abandoned in the attic. It apeared someone had tried refurbishing it previously, probably hand painting it! and the gig bag it was in had become one with the body Anyway, I managed to remove the gig bag, stripped off the naff paint job, sanded the wood smooth, sealed with epoxy resin, sanded smooth again, sprayed with primer and then 4 coats of gorgeous purple metalic (from rattle cans admittedly, but I was very happy with the results at this point). The only thing was that although the paint was supposedly quick drying (it was dry to the touch within 10 minutes) it then seamed to take an age to harden, and I didn't want to start with the clear coats incase I built up too thick a coating of soft paint that never hardens. After 3 days, if I pressed firmly I could leave finger prints which dissapearded when pollished with a soft cloth. After 5 days it no-longer left finger prints but I could leave marks with a finger nail. By now I was itching to get the job finished, as I hope to give the guitar back to my girlfriend for X-mas, looking like new. So I then moved on to the clear coat. The only clear I could find in rattle cans (I don't have a spray rig, but I'm hoping to get one for my next project - a complete build from scratch) was Clear Acrylic. I sprayed a couple of coats then left it to dry, not wanting to build up too many soft coats again. I then found this site and read a lot of the great tutorials and tips you give in your posts. It seams that 'Laquer' or poly-urathane are the prefured clear coats, (I always thought Acrylic was a laquer BTW) and I have read that Acrylic is not that durable? Sorry for the long post but my questions are these: 1, Have I made a bad move by using Acrylic? Will it never harden to the same sort of finish as you get on a commercial guitar? 2, What is the reason behind sanding back between coats? is it just to correct any imperfections such as dust or orange peel surface? The reason I ask is that I have now sprayed 4 coats of clear and at this point it's sugested I should sand back before spraying another 5 or so then sanding again before a final coat then polishing, but at this stage I'm quite happy with the smoothness of the finish (its almost like glass, just a little soft and could do with being thicker/deeper). Is there any need to sand or can I carry on building up the thickness? 3, If I have to sand back, am I best to wait until it has realy hardened each time? (if it ever does?) 4, I know that when re-spraying a car/body panels, many spray-shops bake the paint job in an oven. I have access to an industrial drying oven at work. Has anyone used or would you recommend using a drying oven? Would this harden clear acrylic as hard as a commercial finish? or would it cause cracking or other detrimental effects? If so, at what sort of temperature? Finally, I read in one tutorial that when applying clear coats you should spray a coat then wait around 20 minutes or so then add the next coat while the first is still tacky? and that you shouldn't leave it too long between coats. Due to only having short periods of time free I've done a couple of coats 30 minutes apart then left it untill the next day (24s hour or so) before doing the next couple of coats. Is this going to cause any problems? Sorry again for the length of this post, Hope someone manages to plough through it and can help. Regards, Matt.

Hi Sam, Check out this link: http://users.chariot.net.au/~gmarts/guitar.htm The section on pick-ups has a great tutorial and schematics for just about any kind of pick-up wiring combinations you can think of. HTH, good luck with your project, Matt.