Lycking

Cut down the width of the fretboard a bit after taping it in After that i drilled a hole from the pickupwire channel to what's going to be the control cavity

Spent 9 hours in the workshop yesterday, havn't been able to post it before now, and havn't done anything todays because i've been with my lovely girlfriend all day Anyways, here goes... Started out with cutting the wings to rough size on the bandsaw (I wonder how i have ever been able to live without one until now! This thing is amazing..) Routed a path in the inner of the under wing for the wires from the pickups Roughly cut out the neck profile Fixed the big chip i made earlier (forgot to take pics of the result, they'll come up when i remember it) Began shaping the neck a little and made the headstock and body joints (did alot more than this - forgot to take pics again..) Glued wings on the headstock

Hahaha it'd be an honor ;-) Sometimes you gotta use what's nearby :-D

That's a really good guess i think, probably closest to 7000. Thanks for sharing your knowledge mate!

It comes in at just under 6KOhm, which is very low compared to usual p90's which is on about 7,5-9,5 KOhm. It got that low, because i simply ran out of space on the bobbin. Since i had reduced the size of it to humbucker length, was it faster filled out. This isn't always a bad thing i think, because the humbucker in the bridge has a vintage output (like 8 KOhm), so they should work decent together, but also because it'll get a more trebly, clear and bell-like tone reaching near a normal single coil. Pickups with a high output in the neck tends to get muddy as they get higher and near the strings in the neck pos, but i guess this one with stay more clear and just become fatter, so i can get a clear but yet warm tone.. That's at least what i have read So maybe the low output isn't that bad, and if it's all wrong, do i have the parts to make another p90 And to finish it, here's a pic of my new toy

To minimize feedback am i potting the pickup in melted, hot candle wax, which fills out the air holes/bubbles in the copper. Usually would you use 80% paraffin and 20% beewax, but since i havn't got either am i using plan B And assemblied and with cables soldered on stands the finished pickup

Spin Cityyyyy! And the finished pickup ready to go to the next parts..

Progress! I've finally had both an afternoon without plans, and finally got the components i ordered to make the next step... And also a bandsaw because im dead tired of not having one The day today has been in the name of pickup winding, which is the first time i try this... I've made a winder+counter setup as seen on the pictures later (looks and is a mess but works like a charm). The bobbin is screwn onto a piece of scrap, which is then placed with a bolt into a electric hand drill. The spool with 42 AWG wire on the floor, standing up so that the wire can run freely off, since the wire broke every time i tried with it having to drag the spool around... I had a goal of reaching roughly 10.000 windings, and by that reaching roughly 8,5 KOhm in output. To keep an eye on this, had i bought a Reed switch, which works like a normal on/off switch, apart from that it's not triggered by a click on it, but by a magnet getting near it. So i placed a little magnet on the scrap going with the bobbin. I then soldered that switch into the circuit of a calculator instead of the button triggering =, and then coded it to 1+1, and every time the magnet on the bobbin went past the reed (which is 1 winding), 1 was added to the result, and by that could i read the amount of windings i got The setup as described before, the laptop is not included in any way with it, that's just for rocking out some Boston Since i wanted a p90 in humbucker size, i had to cut the bobbin so, that it could fit under a humbucker cover, because it was too long. Almost there.. Compared to a non-resized bobbin And the final size ready for winding! __________________

Going to reccess the bridge instead of adding neck angle, so the first one wont work But thanks for the suggestion! And it's a nice idea to cut it before adding the headstock joint, i'll remember that for another time And the other one sounds like a great idea! Going to try that for sure

Began shaping the back of the neck, and when i went wrong with the router (tried that since i dont have access to a bandsaw of any kind..) and routed a 2mm channel almost all the way down through the body part of the neck, i decided to put away the router and get to work with a hammer & chisels. Back to basics Sadly, after cleaning up after the mess did i make quite a chip in the side of the neck where it's glued with the wings.. What in the world should i do to fix it?? (picture follows) Here's what i got so far with the chiselwork... gonna plane it with a belt sander later.

Also managed to cut the trussrod channel in a break between painting my room First time i ever do a scarf joint and first time ever i route a trussrod channel, so i'm quite happy with the results for sure!

Went past my grandad's workshop and got the scarf cut done [] 14 degrees and then to glue Clamps and titebond gets you a long way!

Haha that's the plan to get to at least! And i'm actually not completely sure, i want it in the headstock, but i don't think i have the skills nor the tools to inlay it without messing either the wood or the agate up.. So i'm thinking about just gluing it on with CA, it's only about 3,5 mm thick, and actually looks quite nice when it's just on top of the wood

Lately i realised my lovely girlfriend's dad has a surface planer and a thickness planer at their home workshop, so i thought it was worth to use, since my grandad gave his huge one away a year ago So i got the wings and the neck planed to the right thickness and width In some way did i apparently cut the walnut so it got a little bookmatched, even though i cut it two different places of the blank Had to check it with a bit of hardware on aswell I think it's beginning to look kinda promising

'Am sorry of the lack of updates, but finally moving on a little I FINALLY found a closely matching drill for the fretboard markers, so i went onboard in that.. Holes drilled Mother-of-pearl dots glued in Sanded flush and filled out Theres really some amazing pattern and grain in the pearl, but it can't be seen on the pictures at all I'll get some better photos when i'm not too lazy to find my camera instead of my phone The last couple of days have i recieved a couple of packages, so there has been delivered tuners, 3-way switches, pots and coppertape in miles Sadly the tuners are totally miscolored and green (more than on the pictures), even though i bought them as being white and almost pearloid ish... I guess i'll have to pay out for a couple of quality tuners like gibson/grover/kluson instead, maybe just a set of wilkinson E-Z locking, they're suprisingly good for the price So thats about it for today

Thanks! Also, progress on a wednesday!? That's a new one for sure Fixed the fretboard hole and rough cut body wings. Also, i had to check the grain, couldn't wait So i found a random no-name spray can with some laquer, the pics looks more reddish than they are in person, but apperently my camera takes photos like a toster when there isn't proper lightning..

Oh joy, got some top notch american black walnut for an amazing price Got a blank of 20x5,2x300 cm, they didn't want to sell less ....But i paid the half of what a similar 70cm blank would cost on the bay with shipping! .... And it's not a bad excuse to build more walnut axes when you have a bunch of the wood already

Any ways i can calculate this from ex. the wood's density, or is a moisture meter required?

Indeed is! I always prefer making/building things instead of buying, to learn how my stuff actually works Hitting the lumber later today! Hopefully they got what i need..

Aaand if everything goes wrong am i just leaving the Piezo idea, it's just for fun anyways

Kind of, you can see them next to the body on the 2nd picture. Have seen a few using them in solidbodies, but as said will i try it on another electric when my jacks arrive

I don't think so, they're often used like this if you don't want to drill in an acoustic. Just placed on the top and goes to a jack and/or a preamp Like this:

@Prostheta Yeah they are selling lots of templates now (not cheap tho!), and they are massive! These are 1cm thick everywhere @Killemall I read somewhere that using 2 would improve the balance in the sound, especially if they were placed 2 different spots in the guitar, like in the PU cavity and in one of the outer wings. Still not sure about this, but gonna have some fun with test wiring when i recive my jacks. And there were 2 in the pack i bought, so eh haha

... And the black MDF is of course just templates

A few pics of what i got so far; Flame maple neck blank: A little outlay of what i got so far A nice ebony fretboard And recieved these small packages an hour after i took the pictures haha Not going to use the tailpiece of course, but it was sold together :-)