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Posts posted by Lycking

  1. Simple question, any reccomendended methods to cut ½ inch off a 20 x 25 x 1 3/4 body? It is a bit curved on the side that i need to thin down. My thickness planer isn't wide enough, and i've tried the router sliding jig, but that didn't go too well.. Any suggestions? I need to do it with a top going from .80 to .25 inches aswell, which also is a little curved. It's for a hollowbody doubleneck tele

    Thanks in advance!

  2. But! There's alot left to do.
    -Fasten the nut
    -Build a real pickup winder and wind a neck pickup - it sounds like heaven, bright and clear, buuut has the output of a potato..
    -(possibly) get a new agathe and cut it to a truss rod cover (yay or nay?)
    -Fix the cavity cover
    -Fix the grounding
    -Fix some of the frets
    And then the biggest problem i've had..
    The action is WAY too high! It's 0,8-0,9cm by the 19-20th fret, i must have made a serious calculation mistake when i reccessed the TOM.. Dangit!
    How in the world do i rescue this? Is it to remove the TOM posts and reccess it even more? I've never had an axe with a TOM, so i'm completely lost about how to work this out.. Next time, i'll make that neck angle!
    The neck has a bit frontbow, so i might give it a little backbow, that might help a few mm. I'm open for any suggestions!
  3. Question.. Is this grounding enough? Or do i have to "melt" some of the goldplating off? I have no idea if it's conductive enough, or if i have to get further into it. Not because it can fall off (it wont), but solely because of the grounding
    I've had some strins on and had sound through it, and it is noisy. That was without the shielded backcover, but i'll se later when its closer to finish.. 2.jpg

  4. Yeah, learning by doing! (and messing up hehe) :D

    Still need to finish the rest of the hardware, but as of now, the neck is lightning fast, and it really has lower friction than any neck i've felt in my life, really suprised over how well that turned out.

    The body itself is also slick and smooth, the oil really sealed it up nicely. But i'm wondering if i can sand the sides a little with 4-600ish grain sandpaper, since the grain raised a little and made it a bit rough after the last layer of oil. Would this mess up the finish or anything? Havn't really worked with oil like this before :rolleyes:

    Can't wait 'till it's plugged in and turned up :wOOt

  5. Finally returned from travelling, and for the first time in ages i had time to work just a little on the V :)

    I started with routing for the recessed TOM, and then i routed/chiseled space for the control cavity's cover.

    Sadly, none of the two turned out as nice as i'd hoped, but well, nothing ever gets perfect i suppose ;)





    And right now am i preparing the guitar to begin finishing with danish oil :D

  6. Frets installed

    Sanding and filing down the fret ends to the fretboard

    Fret ends done and angled

    Tuner holes drilled and tuners test installed


    Test strung up to position the bridge and to make pull in the neck before i adjust the truss rod and level the frets



    I'm about to begin on figuring out how to recess the TOM, any of you got experience in doing that?

  7. As always thanks alot for the great answers gentlemen! Always a pleasure to seek advices from you great guys!

    The fretboard chips are just lift-ups from the fretting, i could actually press them back in place with a nail, and now that the ebony has gotten it's plan black color back overnight (it was brighter/greyish after sanding) are they almost invisible :)

    I would not bother about the chips at the fret on the board, just play the gitir & they will make no difference.

    Give us a few more piks of the chip in the maple, & some rough dimensions. we can advise you better then.

    I'll try to take a few pictures and measure it when i'm back at home tomorrow or sunday.

    Is the fretboard chipped (ie, pieces missing altogether) or just flakes lifting off under the frets (ie, pieces just barely attached)? If the pieces are missing completely you can probably just mix up some sanding dust from an offcut from the fretboard with CA (superglue) to make a filler paste. Fill up the chips and sand flush when dry. Dark woods hide this best. If the pieces are still attached you can gently push them back down with a tooth pick and apply a drop of CA to each chip. Again, once dry sand flush. If the chips aren't visible because the fret sides overhang far enough I wouldn't bother fixing them.

    The chip out on the neck will be more difficult to hide. You may get lucky with a small sliver of matching scrap timber that can be shaped to fill the void and glued in, but you'll probably end up with a visible glue line. Match the grain and colour as best you can and call it character/voodoo? I dunno - maybe someone else has a good solution?

    I did the superglue and dust trick with a hole in the fretboard which it had acquired during shipping, it worked like a charm and is basically invisible, except for that it is shining a bit more than the rest of the wood, but it's just squished in between a fret and the 9th fret dot, so they take the eyes away from the mark.

    I also did the scrap trick on the back of the neck and it has some glue lines of course, but hey! Scars are just reminders of the past :rolleyes: Patina and mistakes makes the soul.. I think i'll try this here aswell, going to be hard to square out the hole though!

    The chip out on the neck will be more difficult to hide. You may get lucky with a small sliver of matching scrap timber that can be shaped to fill the void and glued in, but you'll probably end up with a visible glue line. Match the grain and colour as best you can and call it character/voodoo? I dunno - maybe someone else has a good solution?

    That is what I would do. I would likely then contour the neck join quite a bit more and see how much of the repair can be carved away. With the way the fretboard is under cut there will always be a little bit that is visible. Play way up on the neck with dirty hands for a while and that will go away. If you fix it so it cannot be felt, and it's a good player, you'll forget about it after a while.


    Hmm the contouring is a really great idea, but i dont think it'll work since it's just under the fretboard, and i'd prefer not to make that bow/contour towards the middle.. :unsure: I think i'll try to fill it with maple and then just leave it as good as it gets! The thing that annoys me the most about it isn't the faultyness itself, but more that a little router slip can do that much! :angry:

    Thanks a world again! :happy:

  8. And now for something more exciting! The work of today!

    The day came where i now had to glue the wings on the body, so i began with making a jig for clamping it up... Made of clamps!! Clamps holding wood in place so that the clamps clamping the gluing didn't slip... Clampception :huh:



    Then i dowel'd (no idea if this is the name!) 2x2 channels for flatdowels, and got ready to glue....



    And so it began! All glued up and hardening...



    And then i went on rough sanding (stil alot of marks and chips missing - sigh!), and here it is at the moment just wiped over with a humid piece of cloth B-)



    Best glueline i've ever done i think! :rolleyes:



    Too bad my iphone's camera is too bad to catch the flame of the maple in any way... :angry:

    That's it for now, i'll be back in a few days hopefully... :peace

  9. Got a tiny bit done yesterday, which didn't go very well... Started out with drilling holes for the p90's pole screws in the humbucker cover, aaaand then the drill broke into 2 and made a huge mark... So i cut all 6 holes into one, which ended up looking like a terrible copy of a filtertron or something like that... I guess i'll just have to order new covers and try again later!
    (the marks/dirt is just leftovers from tape)



    Also did some work on a template/test of the control cavity's cover. Did the test with some 4-ply(4-5mm) birch veneer, and right now am i wondering if i should just make it out of this, or cut some thin walnut or some ash i have around...



  10. Is it too early to adjust the trussrod? :)

    So as long as the neck is close to final thickness I say go ahead and adjust the trussrod.

    Now that that is said think before you twist. You are not actually going to try and correct the current state of the board. You want to adjust it so that you are not sanding a lot of material off the board to level it but you also want the rod to have as much potential to correct any future problems as possible

    Usually what I do is turn the rod until the neck moves just a hair. Then I back it off so that it is not loose but is not overly correcting anything.

    The idea is to level the board with very little pressure on the rod.

    Depending on the style truss rod you are using the next steps can differ a hair.

    Results of leveling are usually as follows.

    If you have a double action trussrod you want the board perfectly level no back relief no forward relief.

    If you have a single action trussrod a little relief is ok. I mean a little. Very very small amount. Like daylight under a straight edge.

    <note: I don't use compression rods anymore and haven't for almost 20 years>

    If you have a compression style rod (good luck with that) I usually go completely flat as I have found they are most likely to not do what you think they are going to do. You do not want them to tight so again just a little pressure on the rod is all you want. Enough tension so the adjustment of the rod is not spinning freely.

    </note: any one who uses these regularly feel free to chime in if I am off>

    Now here is where guys start chiming in with backbow caused by fretting. As long as your fret slots are the right size the backbow from fretting can usually be offset by stringing up the guitar and leaving it tuned to pitch or a 1/2step up for a night. This will seat the tangs into the wood. Ebony is notorious for this. Measure the center of the tang on the fret (not the barbs) and make sure the kerf on your saw is cutting the same size or a tiny tiny bit large.

    Thanks a million Rad!

    I must say you know your stuff...!

  11. I would go with oil. The walnut and flamed maple will look really good with just oil. Shiny finish will require way more work.

    For Danish Oil you don't really need to pore fill. However you will have to be diligent with the clean up as the pores will weep for several hours after initial application.

    Thanks alot RAD!

    Is it too early to adjust the trussrod? :)

  12. Also, some questions for you pro people!

    1) Is it too early to begin adjusting the truss rod since the maple might still be a bit stressed? Because it's curving a tiny bit to the inside. And the fretboard was slighty curving that way aswell before i set it on, so i suspect that might be the "sinner" :P;)

    2) Finish, finish, finish... I've been planning to oil it with Truoil og Danish oil (Woohoo, le'ggo Denmark! <_< ), but i've seen some exceptional glossy finishes lately on guitars with looking woods!

    So; what is required other than Oil for oiling, and what is required for clear finishing, probably with clear Nitro? I'm thinking like grainfiller and such, but i don't really know since there's 2 kinds of wood.. And which of them would you recommend, Oil or clear Nitro? Or both? :blink:

    Thanks in advance!! :D

  13. The shape of the neck is some kind of composite, made after what i felt nice by the hands. But i'd guess it starts with a hard C (almost D) shape by the 1st frets, about 8th fret is it a very soft C, and from the 13th is it getting more like a low D going to a high D. Most people wouldnt like it i guess, but i do for sure! B) B)

    Also, the bass side is thicker than the treble/thin strings' side, since i like a fat neck for power and bar chords and rythm, but a thin for soloing :rock

  14. The headstock and the joint got some love


    Began shaping the neck for real, which is probably the part i've been looking most forward to of this build!

    And i'm really happy i spent the few extra euros to get flame maple instead of regular hard rock maple :rolleyes:



    And finished the day with cutting 2 bookmatched pieces to overlay the headstock


  15. Got a good bit more done yesterday :D
    At first i removed the tape, so i could check the gluing.

    Thinned the headstock a bit (It's a lot prettier now! again forgot pics -_- )

    Ant then it was time to rout the fretboard to fit the routed neck! This was the second most scary thing about the build so far, since the ebony almost kinda crumbles instead of doing big chips, since it is so hard. But it went without a single chipout og scratch! :wOOt

    But i wasn't happy with the gluing at all.. :unsure:

    But that's almost perfect now, after the board and neck has been fittet perfectly together :peace


    Went against it with files and sandpaper, to fit the neck and board49z56c7f-23512.jpg



  16. Rough cut the headstock so it's ready to route after the template


    And then i began hammering tape on the sides of the neck and fretboard, the truss rod got taped off, and then i had to kick off the part i've been the most nervous for: the gluing of the fretboard O_O


    The most scary nails i've ever put in anything! For guidiance when popping on clamps..


    All clamped up and drying..


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