signguy

If you're gonna go that far, why not just build a new body and keep the old body in case you want to change it back? You won't save alot of cash re-using the existing strat body, especially if you start cutting it down and adding wings. Time won't be saved either so I can't see the logic in starting with the strat body. Just my opinion, but good luck with the project either way!

That's certianly not my understanding. I believe it goes something like this (although it's certainly not always used this way): the amount of curl refers to the amount of figure in the wood, regardless of the type of figure. You've then got quilted figure (only found in Western Bigleaf maple, never in hard maples), which comes out best in a slab cut (IIRC), you've got flamed (which is that first pic, essentially, although that's a flame that's quite unique to western bigleaf, and I usually see it referred to as curly; see curlymaple.com, f'r instance) which comes out best in a quarter cut; within flame (which occurs in both hard and soft maples) you can differentiate between tiger (wide bands of flame) and fiddleback (which is the tighter curl you see on, you guessed it, many a fiddle). I'm not sure if I'm getting the usage of 'curl' and 'flame' confused here, though; it is messy. However, that quilt refers to a specific type of pattern found in bigleaf maple (and some other woods, like Sapele, from time to time) is certain, and it's different from a flame look. Yes, the quilted maple patterns are wider and look more like a quilt or tortoise shell pattern, whereas the flamed or curly maple look more linear, lines more so than shapes. As for the species issue, not sure.

I've sprayed poly over vinyl, and printed vinyl with no adverse reactions. One tip tho, spray a light coat the first time, kinda seal it quick, then you can start to build it up after that.

Agreed on the ass kicking part. Symbols have power for people and while someone may think it looks "cool", it is what it is - a symbol of hatred and bigotry. There are plenty of sites out there that explain its historical background but none of that changes what it has come to represent. Given its current and obvious meaning, is its use warranted simply because it looks "cool"? Just my .02. Other than that all the best on the project itself. Robert Irizarry I'm pretty sure he's talking of the Iron Cross. Which would make for some kewl looking inlays Good luck on your project and post some pics.

Very cool, I like it. Can't wait to see the characters. Keep it up!

I've been looking at those too. Surely someone here has picked one of those up and has some experience with them. I have heard in the past that they seem to wear pretty quick at the pivot point, causing headaches...

Yup, most tutorials I have seen have just used rat tail files, sandpaper etc.

Another soon to be vintage strat spared. lol I know how you feel wanting it all shiny and new looking, but hey I think SRV's #1 is a beautiful thing! I've got a strat I want to re-do as well, but I think I'll build a new body for it, and leave the original as is. New pups, pickguard and the tremolo of my choosing. If I want to sell it later, just change them back to original...

Looks great Southpa, I really like the inlays. Where did it originate? Your creation originally or??

Love the Ormsby GG6, gotta hand it to ya Perry, you build a great looking guitar! Keep up the good work. It's quite inspiring. As for the others, I love the Cremo tobacco box, and the violin is killer!

I bet you play the first one in the stand the most... If you do eenie meenie miny moe, you'll always end up choosing the first guitar... lol, made you count didn't I... Got any pictures of that beast?

Excellent, it's good to hear lots of success stories. Keep learning and sharing the experiences. I hope to start a project really soon and I know I wouldn't be thinking seriously about it if it hadn't been for this place. Good luck!

IMO the monkey grip would change the sound so little, it would be inaudible. Could be wrong, but the farther away from the strings path, and vibrations from neck to bridge you go, the less difference a hole would make in resonance, sustain etc. Besides they do look way kewl.. lol

I guess my first question would have to be are you sure you want to do this? I know... stupid question but an 82 is just about 24 years old... Could have higher value associated to it just left alone. Otherwise, have you started with a search on this forum regarding refinishing techniques?

Hummm, never been enough of an artist to do the faux finishing thing. Don't know if you have a "Home Depot" of sorts in Sweeden, but they can be a great source of info on that kind of thing. Try a web search for "faux finishes" and you'll likely be innundated with links. As for the satin finishes, yes they are available in polyurethanes, but as to their compatibility... You'd have to find a method of painting the faux finish and then testing clears to get the look you're after. It should be possible but some clears may just appear hazy or cloudy. Most clear coats are glossy naturally, and they add compounds to reduce the gloss of the finish. You'll tend to see more sediment in the bottom of a can of semi-gloss clear than you would with a gloss at least with the poly's. Just do lots of testing, and post what worked for you! Good luck!