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RestlichGeist

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Everything posted by RestlichGeist

  1. Ah, OK. Hmm, that's a bit disappointing. Why doesn't the coil switching work when the on-on-on switch is wired for series/split/parallel? Shouldn't the middle position be the same, electrically, as it is when you don't have the parallel option? I have very little use for phase reversal, the main reason I installed the switch was to have the option to select the active coil, because that's how I did it on another guitar that has a series/split switch. Is there any other way to wire the push-pull switch so it would work ONLY as a coil select switch?
  2. Sorry for not replying sooner, this project has taken a bit longer than I expected and I'm just now assembling the guitar. Thanks for the schematic, I was able to figure it out and the wiring is done, I just need to solder the pickup leads. One thing, though... I made a small mistake with my MS Paint image. The coil split was supposed to be a DPDT on-on-on switch wired for series-split-parallel, which is connected to the phase switch. I tested the wiring outside the guitar, just to see if the switches and pots are doing what they're supposed to do, and noticed that - while the series-split-parallel switch works correctly - the phase switch doesn't allow me to select the active coil in split mode. The switches are wired like this: http://cdn.seymourduncan.com/images/support/schematics/series_spl_parallel-w-phase.jpg Can this wiring be modified so the phase switch would work as a coil selector switch, too? Curitsa, I see that the phase switch is wired somewhat differently in that picture compared to your schematic, does it make a difference?
  3. I've been using Tru-Oil for quite some time now, and I've been getting excellent results on wooden plectrums, trussrod covers and other items that only have small, flat areas that need to be finished. However, with necks and especially bodies, I just can't apply the stuff evenly, no matter how I try to do it. I've tried applying Tru-Oil with old t-shirts and other kinds of cotton rags, a French polish pad, toilet paper, coffee filters, bare fingers... and always end up with an uneven, ugly top coat. The first couple of coats sometimes work out fine, but after about five or so, the Tru-Oil seems to dry almost instantly. There's simply no time to touch it up or even out the coat at all after it's applied, and most of the time I don't even have time to do a full coat before it's already sticky, even on a neck. What am I doing wrong?
  4. Well, fast switching from neck only to bridge only is something I really need for songs with overdrive and distortion, so I decided against a separate 'on/off' switch for the neck P-90. Using a 3-way switch might work, though, with the second position having all pickups on. This would allow for instant switching from neck to bridge as well as any possible combination in the second position, using independent volumes to blend in as much of each pickup as needed. However, I'd also like to have instantaneous switching from neck + middle to neck + bridge because these combinations are what I use when playing with a clean sound. For this I'd need a 5-way switch.
  5. You've all been very helpful, thanks a lot! After reading through your comments, I realised a couple of things; the wiring idea was overly complicated and had way too many switches, and the P-90 'on/off' switch would prevent fast switching from neck to bridge, which is not acceptable for me. This also applies to the idea of having an 'on/off' switch for each pickup instead of a lever switch. It seems I made the amateur mistake of trying to fit in everything I could think of without considering how practical it would be or how I'd actually switch from one sound to the other. Since I wouldn't be using the phase reversal/coil change switch enough to justify a separate switch, I could save room by having it wired into the volume pot, which is convenient as I already have a 500k push-pull pot for it. Also, I don't need to have any two pickups on simultaneously in series, only in parallel. So, I made a quick illustration in Paint of the simplest, most practical way I could think of to achieve fast switching from neck to bridge while still getting all the combinations I want (all combinations in parallel): The only missing combination would be all pickups on, which I don't think I'd have much use for. There's also no dedicated position for middle only, but if the volume controls are independent, then I could just turn the neck or bridge volume all the way down in 2. or 4. position, leaving only the middle pickup on. What do you think? Can this be done? I can't figure out the switching or whether I need a Super Switch or not, so if someone could draw a diagram, that'd be great. The guitar shape is a jazz guitar / Les Paul hybrid and all the controls will be on one side, pretty much as they are in that picture.
  6. Hello everyone, sorry to make my first post on the forum a "help me" thread, but here goes. I'm building my first custom guitar and the wiring is going to be somewhat unusual, so I need some input from people who actually understand guitar wiring. I've done guitar wirings before and I understand the basics, but I can't figure out how this should be wired, or even if it's possible. Here's what I have in mind: Neck: SD Custom P-90, 500k volume, 250k no-load tone Middle: BKP Irish Tour, 500k volume, 250k no-load tone Bridge: DiMarzio X2N, 500k volume, series/parallel/coil split mini switch, phase reversal mini switch I want to be able to have any combination of the pickups available, so right now I'm thinking of using a normal Oak Grigsby Fender-type 5-position switch (not the 24-lug super switch) with a separate on/off switch for the P-90, so the positions would be like this: 1. Neck (can also be used to mute the guitar if the P-90 switch is off) 2. Middle (+ Neck in parallel if the P-90 switch is on) 3. Middle + Bridge, in parallel (+ Neck in parallel if the P-90 switch is on) 4. (Any ideas? I can also use a 4-position switch and just drop this position entirely) 5. Bridge (+ Neck if the P-90 switch is on) Would this work? Is there a better way to be able to have all the possible pickup combinations available? I could add one more mini switch or one more pot, any more and it's going to get a bit too crowded inside the electronics cavity. If someone wants to draw up a diagram, go ahead, but I can order a custom digram so I mainly just want to know if this is possible BEFORE I order the diagram.
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