DIYguitarguy
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I like the shape of the Fender Torando and am planning to build something similar. I've never seen a "real" one, only photos. Because the bridge appears to be the TOM type, is the neck pocket or neck itself angled? Would it be feasable to swap the TOM with a hardtail?
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Thanks. I may heed your advice and go with a water based application. I've used nitro, and sometimes it is problematic. I've got some left over and would like to use, rather than waste it.
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Would your answer be a "yes" or a "no"? I know that certain types of plastic are being used, but the confusion for me stems from opinions I've read that state "never expose a nitro finish (long term) to plastic". Could this be myth or fact?
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Will the application of a plexiglass pickguard onto a guitar finished with nitrocellulose lacquar adversly affect that finish?
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Here is a link to a pic of my first attempt at guitar building. http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f337/DIY.../firstbuild.jpg Everything, except the neck, was done from scratch. The plan was drawn as a "down-sized" body, 25.5" scale, 24 fret neck. Woods used on the body are quartersawn maple top over cherry. The neck is maple with a Pau Ferro fingerboard from USA Custom Guitars. A lot was learned during this build and will probably do things a little differently next time.
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Thanks for the input. I checked your site and found the details there to be very interesting. I was afraid my first project might be a bit "heavy", but it seems to be right in line with the random squire tele and strat weights you provided. Mine is built from cherry with a maple lam top. It weighs in at 8 lbs. 4 ozs., but is features a downsized body loosely based on the strat style. I totally agree that weight and tone are subjective things. I also agree that the builder must know how to "read" the qualities that may, or may not exist in a piece of wood. Some pieces will "ring" and others are just plain dead. I only threw this question out there to see what kind of opinions would come back. Thank you for yours.
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Just a question to throw out. Wondering how you folks may respond. What do you consider to be the ideal weight for a solid body, 6 string electric guitar? I know, generally speaking, that "lighter is better", but for those of us who prefer a good quality hardwood with tone, sometimes a little extra weight will pay dividends in sound quality. But, how much is too much?
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Thanks Southpa, If I'm understanding what you are telling me is that the ground wires from each part come together at a solder joint on the volume pot casing? Does this point also include the bridge ground, or is that a different connection? I'm sorry about the "dumb" questions, but I learn best through visuals and am a little dense when it comes to learning otherwise.
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Samba Pa Ti, Thanks for your reply. This is a handbuilt guitar of my own design, loosely based on the Strat style with exceptions. It is a bit smaller than the strat, cherry body with quartersawn book-matched laminated maple top, has a 24 fret neck, 2 humbuckers, Callaham hardtail bridge, Switchcraft 250K & 500K pots and a 5-way megaswitch that are mounted from the rear through the top. I know this is more than you asked for, but is the only way I can explain what "kind' of guitar it is.
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I'm nearing the completion of my first build and have hit a roadblock. I'm a fairly competent woodworker, but an idiot when it comes to electronics. I can understand how most of the connections are made, except I can't visualize how the "grounds" are accomplished. Everything I have read tells me that all parts must be grounded "together", yet the drawings show several separate ground points for each part. I asked the guy who sold me some parts and his answer was: "everything gets soldered to the pots", which was too simplistic for my understanding. I need help. possibly a photo realistic visual aid. This is the wiring scheme I intend to use: 2 HB + 1V +1T + 5-way double pole switch as: 1. Bridge HB 2. Bridge coil tap south 3. Neck + Bridge HB's 4. Neck coil tap north 5. Neck HB