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Biz

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Everything posted by Biz

  1. It appears that i may have given bad advice as stated from above, of course i was totally unaware i can assure you. I know Ive seen the restorers use turpentine. Perhaps Gorecki or someone can explain to us all why it is not suited for bare wood. Some searching showed it is used mainly for cleaning "finished" wood. Some used it for cleaning wax residue from bare wood before refinishing. This link exposes another opinion that naptha is the best "bare" wood cleaner. http://www.guitarspecialist.com/q&a.htm I also seen that using a white 'not red' eraser is good to clean pencil lead and dirt from carvings before finishing. Never practice on the real thing.
  2. Biz

    Piezo

    Heres an idea that could work perhaps, what do you think. Sandwich one piezo p/u between 2 boards and glue the glasses to the top. If I understand piezo transducers right, it’s a pressure sensitive plastic that produces a current. This is why they install it between the bridge and sound board of an acoustic. This type will produce the best results I think. The other type p/u is the stick on or glued in the bridge with an electromagnetic type style which when the diaphragm is shook will produce a current. This type could be the easiest to use. Only thing could be the closest glass to it would be the loudest. anyways fun project, good luck with it
  3. Check on this, but i have heard turpintine is what antique restorers use for cleaning grain. im curious why you were sanding that fine in the first place because your finishing procedure will need something around 180-220 to grab on to.
  4. Hoping someone with a little insight can help me. I'm installing the 2 way truss rod from the bottom or back of the neck. Is there a wrong way? The rod I’m using is this one: http://www.alliedlutherie.com/truss_rods.htm I'm not a physic's major, but it seems if it will go both ways, then there is nothing wrong with placing the round stock towards the fret board, contradicting every picture I’ve seen. Seems logical for a top install to use the flat stock up for gluing considerations, but what about from underneath? The reason i would want to do this is to keep the adjustment piece closer to the top because of the totally bizarre shape of the head and string lock of this bass. The neck setup would require removal of the string lock to adjust it and thats not practical. The tuners are on the bridge giving way to an unusual head stock. Allied Luthiers, LMI and StewMac have all answered to keep the adjustment side away from fret board...but when asked why? They say just cause....... This is a very expensive project with tons of time spent, with no room to experiment. any takers?
  5. My 2 cents worth on the subject is that all synthetic plastics are glue. There are just some minor changes to them that make them better suited for outside, wet areas, or what not. Considering that two metal brackets of this 2 way rod aren't supposed to move anyway and that the rubber like silicon adhesive will give you the same desired affect of dampening any undesirable resonate generated buzz.
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