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Devo

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Everything posted by Devo

  1. you need a ground connection on the free lug of your volume pot... are we looking at the bottom of those pots of at the top... if you get that wrong they will turn the opposite way to what you expect Steve
  2. Hey, I have to disagree the diagram is wrong... using seymore duncan wiring codes in position 1 the output from the south coil of the bridge humbucker is connected to the ouput of the north coil of the same humbucker ... neither of these are connected to the output ... in fact the only coil of the bridge humbucker which is connected to the output is the input side of the north pole of the bridge humbuker.. and this is connected to the output in parallel with the P90 ouput... all other switch positions are also incorrect if you want I could draw up a diagram tomorrow sometime that would achieve what you want using the 4 pole 6-way when I have more time Steve
  3. Just one question before i answer, which humbucker are you using? Dimarzizo Seymore etc etc? Steve
  4. nope it wont work the way you think it will... infact is so far wrong I assumed it was a joke at first... but incase its not... in the first position you have the P90 going ot the output which is connected to the input wire of the neck side of the bridge humbucker... the two humbucker output wires are connected together and not to any output... plus the input wire of the P90 is ungrounded so it wont work..
  5. Hi, anyone know where I can get stronger tremelo springs so that I can go form 3 to 2 in the back of a floyd equipped guitar.... I need to only have two springs in order to give me enough space to accomodate a circuitboard I have made. Best wishes Steve
  6. Fortunatly/Unfortunatly DPDT switches dont always work that way. The centre position is often a diagonal (top left connected to centre and bottom right connected to centre) ... Thanks for all the advice... I ended up using a Dimarzio EP1111 ... switch as Allparts UK took way too long to answer my quesitons and then when I put the order in they managed to loose my credit card details... never dealing with them again. Managed to wire up what I wanted with two fewer poles than I thought I might need.. though Ill only say more when Im finished
  7. Thanks for the replies! Will look into those switches Samba pa ti! What Im using it for is to control seperate cuircuites within the guitar. A seperate push/pull switch engages and disengages the sustainiac and I want to use the other poles of the main pickup selector switch to change the operating mode of the sustainiac. Basically I dont want to add any more controls to this guitar as I want to use it live alot and my other sustainer guitar just has too many switches pots for use on stage .. Keep the advice comming! Thanks Steve
  8. Hey folks, Im on a quest for (at least) a 4 pole on/on/on toggel switch. The must exist as old JPM model Ibanez guitars must have had them. But it seems like they are really hard to get! A 6 pole would be ideal and I thought if anyone knew it would be the knowledgeable folks at project guitar. Any advice help is much appreciated... plus Im not adverse to building my own switch if anyone knows where to get appropriate parts or circuit boards etc Best wishes and thanks in advace for any advice Steve
  9. why not just have a mini toggle for each coil that adds the signal from that coil in parallel to the output and then cram as many coils as you can in between the bridge and neck? If you intend to gig with this guitar then your going to find it very frustrating to have to change three or four switches to achieve the tone you want... bear in mind that you will use about three of those options regularly (full neck adn full bridge plus some parallel or single coil sounds) so it might just be worth thinking about what other two options you would most like and then hard wire all those into a 4 pole five way switch. Steve
  10. I bought one as I didnt have enough cash for a hotplate... it added alot of noise to my effects loop and really killed off the tone of each of my amps I tried it with... i stronly suggest you dont get one... however if your still determined if you paypal me the cost of postage Ill send you mine rhather then throw it in the bin... and have you throw your money away best wishes steve
  11. he he... I got conned into buying one of those cordless evilbay instant heat instant cool jobbies... knew they were too good to be true... worked (badly) for all of 10 mins then went out with a bang. Still use an old crooked one myself... or my Draper gun thing but its a bit unwieldy... im rambling... guess I added no usefull information here ... but since I took the time to type it ..... I guess ill press send and hope that not too many people waste time to read it... apologies if you have gotten this far and are still reading ... this post is going to end very dissappointingly. I need sleep.
  12. You have probably already seen this site but... http://www.diyguitarist.com/ and follow the "guitar stuff" link. Im hoping to build a piezo buffer and magnetic pickup preamp into a splitter box for my RG2020XTB that I have rewired to use a single stereo jack. Getting tangled in two cables mid song is not fun
  13. Hi folks, looking for some usefull URLs to get me started on changing my US carvin amp to UK power supply. Looking for any helpful URLs or hints from the amp builders amongst us. Im tired of lugging my 110v Transformer around... as if the amp wasnt heavy enough! Steve
  14. Ill definatly second that... and your opinion about putting pickups out of phase..... which switches do you use regularly though frank? Ive been using Stewmac ones but theyre about 2wice the price of an allparts one. I nearly always put a high pass on a push pull... but I guess I almost always use it on some pickup combinations and never on others... On my current project I was thinking about connecting up the fourth pole with a push pull to engage a piezo in parallel on some pickup combinations...
  15. Hey Folks, Whenever I go to rewire a guitar I like to keep things as simple as possible from the players point of view cause having to flip switches pull knobs and twist dials as well as stamping on pedals is a bit much for a 12 bar solo... so I generally will have one switch and sometimes 1 or 2 push pulls... though they only select odd pickup combinations that are unlikely to be used in a live situation... so my question is 'is there such thing as a >4 pole 5 way switch?' and does anyone here regularly use the allparts 4 pole switches... they look pretty good but how do they feel/perform in the long run? cause the stewmac ones are pretty expensive. Best wishes Steve
  16. All prices include shipping to mainland UK Ibanez RG7620 body, fair few minor knocks and dents. suit project: £70 Dimarzio Blaze 7 string Bridge (loads of wire): £45 Dimarzio Blaze 7 sting Neck (loads of wire): £45 wiring from Ibanez JS1000. one scratchy pot no switch: £7 Two 500K pots wired together: £7 Ibanez Wiring (pots switch output jack etc from 7620 above): £20 Gotoh straplocks new unused in packet: £15 Chrome pickup mounting rings (neck and bridge set): £10 Allparts 01154 Chrome metal knobs in packet (two sets): £5 each set Barrel output jack, chrome in packet: £3 Copper control cavity shielding tape 5 foot by 1 inch (2 packs): £5 each
  17. Thanks folks. Have been mulling this over for a long time... While intermittenly sanding it down by hand (its difficult to even use a sanding block on a JS) .. Im making some progress by hand. Im off home in a few days so Im going to use my Dads workshop. he has a couple of belt and drum sander type things and just carefully take the majority of the finish down.... and do the fiddly bits by hand. That or I will go visit a panel beater friend of mine and see what strippers he can get his hands on for me. as an aside ... Having spent alot of time staring at this one body it Looks like Ibanez made a mess of the neck pocket route. so thats going to have to be filled reshaped a little.. Hope the rustins plastic wood stuff is up to the challenge ans stresses of being part of a neck pocket. should be no problem though... havent seen that on any of my other Ibanez guitars before. wonder how this one made it out of the factory. will post pics of my progress. thanks again for the help and advice.. Im sure ill be back for more.
  18. I think whats his names book..... ermmmmmmm... i fogort the name of it .. hold on... http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/081...6456226-0624734 is a really excellent reference on how to approach guitar making. I know I know its for classical and acoustic guitars. But It explains alot how to use tools what tools to use and what for. How to best preserve the woods. I mean cutting a guitar shape out of a slab of wood is pretty easy this book goes into the details of finishing a guitar. Inlay, binding, purfling etc how to sand plane use a spokeshave etc etc the ideals are essentially the same are they not? Steve
  19. Hi, Im looking to make a straight swap, my white Evolution neck pickup for your black dimarzio bridge pickup. Will consider any model Cheers Steve
  20. I'm gonna guess that you're a Brit? You guys are hamstrug by not having really good toxic stuff to work with. Kleen Strip KS3 eats polyester and polyurethane for breakfast, but it also is hard on the skin and lungs. Regular stripper is not much better than water on these tough finishes. Heat will work but be careful. A lot of guitars are assembled with glues that heat will soften. Learned that the hard way. Be really careful around bindings. You can also scorch the wood if you get too aggressive. Keep the gun moving and do a small area at a time. Remember to wear a mask that filters chemicals not just dust 'cause heating these things up releases all kinds of funky stuff. Take your time and don't get frustrated. All methods take ten times loger than you ever estimate. ← I take offence! I most certainly am not a Bit!! Im Irish and proud... just happen to be studying in the UK at the moment thanks for the advice! yeah I was quite dissappointed when nothing happened with the stripppers alright. Ill have to get myself a decent mask thing ... I guess it shouldnt be too hard to find Cheers Steve
  21. Great!! Thanks Keith, i was hopeing for an answer like that. excellent! steve
  22. I figure there should be no problem with using aluminium foil probably the best option cause of its price. I cant remember my physics at all though. theres got to be someone out there who can tell us. I figure any thin conductive material (cheapest and easiest being foil metal eg aluminium foil) should do it so long as its connected (eventually) to the ground lug on your ouput jack. Lead would be good too.. dont know if its a better conductor then copper or aluminium.. but if you were getting serious x-ray or B-particle interference then lead would definatly be the way to go .
  23. Hey thanks for your advice guys, much appreciated!!! I had started to look into a heat gun there a day or two back. I also contacted a few paint stripper companies, like rustins, and they all said that they didnt have a product that would strip polyester. So I think Im going to have to go with heat im just not good enough with a sander to get all those curves. As far as the crack goes, Ive sanded back quite far and the crack is still there. You could feel that the crack had become raised before i started to sand it. It felt like moisture had started to swell it a bit. I want to see whats going on under there as I dont want this to reappear when refinished. Do you wave the heat gun over the surface in a spraying like motion or do you hold it quite still. Thanks again Steve
  24. I searched round and found on this site that it could be a two part polyester finish... the problem is that there is a massive finish crack that runs from the rear strap button along the edge of the guitar and then accross teh face to the trem cavity. And Im worried that this will reappear if i dont completely remove the finish adn fill adn redrill the strap button holes. I need to take it all off to be sure. Otherwise i would have just sanded leveld and refinished Any help would be much appreciated Steve
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