myfish

hello i have a strat thats been crushed on the neck just below the headstock. it was resting on the edge of its case and the top slammed down making a fairly deep groove like depression in the back of the neck. no probs, i'll get that out with some heat and some steam me thinks. yep got that out, sanded it all down etc. now ive got an area of maple thats 2" by 3" thats a different color. refinishing the whole neck is not an option as i want to retain its original finish. what would be the best way to flash in the lacquer ( poly i think , slightly yellowed but not clear ). i don't just want to clear coat, as this will leave the light patch.

:o hey this stuff is great to see done, but youv'e gotta wonder how many fakes are floating around out there. surely, its only a matter of time before its gonna be really hard to tell the difference ?. looking at this example, i'd say that time is nigh. -- Keith White

a 7VWH, a really beautiful guitar. yes, i read that tut. but i'm not sure about risking it on my strat its my main player. -- Keith.

ok guys . i have just bought a new Ibanez JEM, and its great.i love the scalloping in the upper frets. i've got clumsy fingers, and the scallops stop me choking the strings out, and i'm sure i'm playing quicker up there too. how do i repeat this on my USA strat rosewood board. i read the tutorial, but am worried about going through the inlays with the file. should i finish of with wet/dry and lemon oil ?. i have never done this before, so i don't want to screw it up. however i have a squire rosewood fingerboard i could try first. but are the inlay depths similar ?. or who would be the best person to send it to, to get it done ?. -- Keith White.

i've never really had trouble with brands.just, i like to only use 2 thirds of the can to stop splattering. shake like a madman, for best results.

St Helier, Jersey, Channel Islands, UK where the sun always shines, in your mind.

ok, great stuff, i'll source this 3 in 1 primer and look at water based clear coats. do you use more clearcoat on a finish of this type to ensure not buffing through the finish ?. and that bowl is so small ???. how are you immersing the guitar body ?. are you getting the swirl into the cavities ?. and all that excess paint, surely you must skim the suface first before withdrawing ?. anyway i'm gonna try some larger objects with cavities first, to ensure getting it right. when its done, good or bad i'll up some pic's. -- Keith White.

Hi, first post here. look this is a taboo subject i know, but i need some help. i have suceeded in swirling some dimensional objects, but small ones. eggs, pieces of wood etc. i'm using oil based ceramic tile paints available from my local hardware store. have done some study of suminagashi to help with the swirl patterns.i have limited colours, and am working on a very small scale. I am now ready to attack a guitar body, a squire strat body, its stripped ready to go. so i'll seal the wood, prime it, and key it. I'll insert some wood at the neck joint to do the immersion. here is what i need. what sort of surface area of swirled paint am i looking at to complete the swirl in one dip. As its a large object, will the paint stay firm against the guitar body low down in the tank, whilst i clean the surface of the tank free from excess paint. Also, i need some help with primers,paints and clearcoats that will all work in unison without reaction taking place. i live in the Channel Islands UK, far away from anywhere that offers a swirling service, and i know of about 9 or 10 jobs i could do, when i get this right, so it's in my interests to learn. I know there are people here and on jemsite.com that can do this, and maybe they have gone down the same road as i have. any help would be great. -- Keith