nor

I would avoid any powered buffing/sanding of tru-oil. It goes on 'really' thin - and hand-buffs easily. Powered tools will pull it out of the grain fairly quickly.

Tried Tru-Oil over turquoise stain - looked just like... flem. Try it on a test piece first.

Jackson has done a few RR's with carved tops - look pretty cool. Some might consider this more an 'extreme bevel'... lol..

Widen those routs a bit to the bass side and make it a 7-string LP.

24.5 - 25.5

Found one at a local repair shop! Thx for the help!

Thanks, Scott.

I screwed up and sheared the brass coupler the saddle hold down screws into. Where can Wilky parts be found?

NEWC! Nice to see some mo JCFers...

'Open Source' Guitar Parts.

Here's a few... Uncle Spot Ampwares Guitar Parts.com

Guys like RR and Dave Meniketti (Y&T) didn't use a special 'stutter switch'. They just used the toggle-switch on thier LP's with the vol on the other p/u rolled off. I went through soooo many on my SG...

I feel it's the manufacturers' fault as well, but... 1. I'm not the original owner. (owner#3) 2. The warranty card was never sent in by the original owner. 3. I don't have the months it would take to resolve this with Fender - and I live 15 min from Fender HQ. I need to move this soon. "My dad's a TV repairman - he's got an awesome set of tools! I can fix it."

Thx, Scott! I put a small drop 'o glue uder the chip - let dry. Then a verrrry light coat of black. Tomorrow, I'll wet sand. Then a touch of clear - dry, wet sand, polish. I'm feeling mucho better about this. Thx dudes!!

Thanks, Brian! How do I reflow/blend the topcoat once the chip is reattched?