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Trann

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  1. I've been considering completely redoing the holoflash finish (see the in-site finishing tutorial section) on my guitar to do a better job technically and satisfy myself a little more with the lines that will be shown in the holoflash. I want to strip the body down below the foil that's on it right now because there are many places where it is cut, peeling, with sandpaper scratches from sand-throughs etc. but I'm not sure if regular stripping devices will work to remove it. I don't think any solvent will affect the foil, and any sandpaper would be difficult to use to grind off the metal. Does anyone have any good ideas on how I might remove the foil? Thanks for reading.
  2. I tried to get pictures of this, but my camera is giving me really blurry shots. In the 19th fret on my neck, there's a nick at about the G string. When you bend the string there, it makes a noise as the string shifts in and out of the nick. It's about the shape and size to catch the G string (I think it's a .14). I have the same size fretwire to replace it with, but I'd just like some opinions on how this should be done. I also don't know if Ibanez seats their frets with glue or just with tangs. I read http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/Fretting.htm to try to understand the fret removal/insertion process.
  3. It looks like it's going to be very cool. You should be fine if you just pick up some literature on guitar building; the tutorials on this site are pretty good but aren't as thorough as they could be. I love the sound of walnut. You should reconsider the wraparound bridge though, IIRC it can make for some lost vibration transfer and plus it falls off when the guitar isn't strung.. If I were you I would do a string thru.
  4. Please post more pics when all the hardware's on. That guitar is really a knockout.
  5. So I finished my first guitar recently and now that I'm back at school I realize I could be spending more time at school in the shop working on a backup guitar. Since I want something that could be used for jazz it needs to have a classic look to it. It also needs to work as a backup rock guitar. I've found that I can get a very good rock sound from Stratocasters by using compression so I'm going to build one to use as my backup. One of the notable things about this guitar is that the neckjoint is going to be all-access style similar to this. I've got a Floyd Rose Strat copy with such a neckjoint and I'm going to use it as a template to make a template out of some 1/4" masonite. I'm going to send for some 50's Strat templates as well. For the neck I'm hoping to capture the feel of a Wizard II. Considering a fretboard is about 5mm, a truss rod rout is about 10mm (11 for a Hot Rod!), and a Wizard II at the thinnest is 19 mm, is it safe to just have 3-4 mm between the back of the neck and the bottom of the truss rod rout? I'd really hate to learn the truth the hard way. If any more experienced luthiers could comment I would really appreciate it. The headstock probably isn't going to tilt back if that makes a difference. It's going to be a maple fretboard with a 16" radius, medium-jumbo frets, LSR nut, and locking staggered post height tuners. The body is most likely going to be alder. It seems like that would probably give the most well rounded (in genre terms) sound. I'm thinking about finishing it with lacquer but considering the delicate nature of lacquer and the sheer time it takes to cure, I'm leaning towards using polyurethane. It's going to be colored Dakota Red or something similar. I'm going to use a Wilkonson knife edge trem. I'm not really certain how to pinpoint really well where to drill for the anchors though, does anyone have any ideas? Perhaps it comes with a template? I'm going to be posting pictures as I get things done. Any input or ideas for this guitar would really be appreciated! Thanks for reading this.
  6. I used this finish: http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/holoflash.htm I think it turned out pretty well. The neck is a stock Wizard II, the pickups are a SD Jazz and an Evolution, the switch and pots are from a factory RG320, and most of the hardware is from a factory RG320. The reason I have RG on the headstock is because in a serendipitous coincidence, my name is Rikki Gibson. I think it turned out pretty well for a first guitar. It's got D'Addario 9s on it, and in the trem cavity it has an ESP Arming Adjuster and a Tremol-No.
  7. I ordered a kit of the foil from Universal Jems, but when I was cutting it I forgot to set aside a piece for my headstock. I need to find a piece about 4x10" pretty soon; does anyone have any basic ideas of where to look? I send Brian an email about it but I haven't gotten a response.
  8. http://namm.harmony-central.com/WNAMM06/Co...ty-Guitars.html This seems like it would be a neat project, for a gimmick guitar to go on with and it up with. I'd probably build it with a soloist style body like the one here: http://www.vai.com/Machines/guitarpages/guitar063.html The pickguard seems to be the main issue. I'd prefer to make one or have one made; I don't want to pay $200 for a guitar I'll never use except for the pickguard. Is it possible for a company like Pickguard Paradise to build a pickguard based on a photo? I'd put an Edge on it no doubt, so I'd have to cut away some additional section of the pickguard. I have a JEM777 template that I'd use for most of the routes, but I'd do the body outline and tremolo "thru" hole with a Soloist body template. For a neck I'd probably buy a Wizard II to put on it; I fear the idea of building a neck, attempting to attain Ibanez quality. Does anyone have any ideas or advice to help me figure out a good plan for making this guitar?
  9. Very cool body. You should try changing the headstock design though, to something that more resembles the form of the body.
  10. So I'm building a guitar with a JEM-style output jack. I have an RG style output jack right now that attaches to the body by a plate designed to go on the bottom corner. What could I do to fit the output jack at the JEM-style location? It looks like I could just bend the plate so it would screw onto the side of the guitar flat and then drill perpendicular to the bottom of the guitar. Does anyone have any similar experiences? Any comments would be appreciated.
  11. So it looks like I've been tightening my neck a little too much over the years; the threads are starting to fall apart and the holes are in pretty bad shape. A friend is parroting me on how I need to use some automotive thread replacement stuff, but it seems to me that using regular wood fill or epoxy should do the job just fine. Anyone with a similar problem, how did you resolve it? Any advice is appreciated.
  12. So I'm getting pretty far with my guitar, but one of the things I'm still confused on how to do is the arm and belly cutaway. It's a JEM, so the belly cutaway is also dependant on making the handle usable. Should I make a template of the back and side and then draw it on the body and sand away or are there other methods? On the arm cutaway, it it acceptable to keep a finished body nearby for comparision and go by feel? Any input would be appreciated.
  13. Please read the thread before posting. I am planning to do a material finish.
  14. I don't think I'd like to put a piece of wood or plastic on top of it. What seems reasonable to me is the idea of shaping a small chip from my scrap wood to fit fairly well into the hole, and then sealing it in with glue. The other course of action which I'd like a second opinion on would be to build up small layers of glue until the hold is covered over. I'm planning on doing this: http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/holoflash.htm
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