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About Polymaker

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  • Birthday 08/27/1992

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    Crafts, Engineering, Computer Programming & Music

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  1. @Bizman62 You made me realize that the dial is a separate part under the volume knob. I had the impression it was some kind of skirt like this.
  2. @Drak I'm so in shock I have difficulty typing this message Simply WOW! I cannot believe it. A million thanks for your generosity! I have no words.
  3. @Drak Thanks for the info! And you are right I totally missed that the short scale-length was because it is an arch-top, I knew that but I didn't connect the dots for this guitar I completely agree with your point and like I said before, I'm not looking to make an exact replica. I was ready to try my hands at making an arch-top but I wanted to know for sure how it was built before going that route. Now that I know that it is some kind of weird hybrid, I'm definitively taking the simpler approach. My CAD drawing was already made with a center block design in mind. To not pollute this
  4. This is what I believe also. And that would make the building process a whole lot easier. Thanks for your opinion on the matter!
  5. Thank you both for helping me in my hunt for information! Also I should have mentioned that I'm not looking to make an exact replica, but rather a close look-alike. Like for example, in my design I have changed the body shape to have better access to the upper frets. Also the original has a short scale-length (can't remember or find where I got this info) so I'm making it with the standard 25.5in. I'm also thinking of skipping the arched back for simplicity. But for the most part I try to keep it as close as possible to the original. Now about the construction, some websit
  6. According to your website, this description is for the knob beside the volume. So it is the one labeled: O, I, I+II, II (or 0, 1, 1+2, 2 in decimal) My personal guess (before this information) was 0 = kill switch, 1 = neck, 1+2 = neck + bridge and 2 = bridge. For the other knob with (B- T+B-, etc..) the site describe: "The next rotary seems to be for tone caps but only one position seems to alter the sound." So no luck for this one About the tremolo, I simply think it is a variation. If you look at the pictures of the two sites you linked, they both have different trem and tailp
  7. Hi guys, I need your help reverse-engineering a vintage guitar. Since I started building electric guitars my dad wanted that I make one of his favorite guitars. It is the "Saturn 63" made by Hopf. It was used by the guitarist of the band "The Cure" (if I'm not mistaken) I always put off making it because it seemed too daunting but now I thing I'm up to the challenge. Since that guitar is pretty uncommon, the info I can find is pretty limited. There is a couple of things that I'm not sure on about how it is constructed. Also the model had a lot of variation, almost each pic
  8. I found the issue and I just released a new version. This version also includes some improvements and new export options.
  9. I've just tested it and having equal spacing at the bridge has less effect than at the nut. Since the spacing is larger at the bridge, the offset is proportionally smaller (moving a string by 1mm at the bridge is less apparent than moving by 1mm at the nut). I didn't mean to imply this, I was just saying that even if the error caused by equal-spacing is not considerable, it is still added on top of the variation produced by playing. One way of fixing the deflection when fretting a note on multiscale layouts would be to use "à la" true temperament frets:
  10. @Prostheta I'm not entirely sure I understand what you ask but I also had the impression that the errors induced by equal spacing could be compared to the variation induced by fretting, but my current view is that equal-spacing won't make you fret more precisely... So in theory you are inducing more error when using equal-spacing. It may be possible in some case that they cancel-out but I'm not sure. Using (slightly) curved fret on mild multiscale layout would greatly help intonation. But I think that even normal multiscale and up (e.g. 25"-27") are greatly affected by the variation induc
  11. I do something similar to you. When extruding thin line to the actual fret thickness, the sides of the frets don't match the taper of the fretboard. So I used to extend all the line manually, extrude them, then trim them to the fingerboard. This is the main reason why I made the option when exporting, but while at it I made it so you can trim them shorter for those who want to do "blind" frets with a CNC. This is a thing I discovered while developing my software. In theory, straight frets are not accurate, not because of the true temperament stuff but just due to the fact that sin
  12. Yes it is calculated. You may have missed my previous post where I explained it. Changing the tuning and physical properties in the SIL file will have effect on the generated layout. Here are the values that are used to calculate the fret compensation: The unit weights (named UW in lbs./ inch). The default values are from d'Addario data. The modulus of elasticity (named MOE in GPa). The default values are based on what I found on the internet. The core wire diameter (named CoreWireDiameter). The values are the same as the gauge for unwound strings but for wound stri
  13. You're in luck! Like I mentioned, the calculation requires a lot of variables and I haven't found yet a proper way to input them. To achieve such result at the moment you need to manually edit a saved ".sil" file (with notepad). Here is a quick how-to: Create a new blank file and save-it. The default file template has actually most of the values needed for TT. Open the created file in notepad. You will see a tag named "Temperament", set "ThidellFormula" as the value Now set the "FretCompensation" tag value to "true" The next step is require
  14. It is designed for Windows. On the release page you can find 32-bit (x86) and 64-bit (x64) installers (.MSI). Just download the setup and install like any other windows program. The only issue is that Windows 10 security will popup when installing, warning you that it came from internet. Just click advanced and check install anyway (or something like that I don't remember exactly). In the beginning I wanted to make this software cross-platform (for Linux and OSX) but I had trouble finding a cross-platform UI library that could do what I wanted. Documentation is also on my to-do li
  15. @curtisa Sorry if it was not clear, but it is based on the actual calculation. What I meant is since there is many variables (string action, modulus of elasticity, core wire diameter, desired frequency, etc) the results I get at the moment is not quite like the pictures I see (I supperpose my result over a picture of TT). I found an interesting paper that explain how to calculate the fret compensation. * I can no longer find it on the website but I managed to find it again with internetarchive and if you want to look I've put it on my google drive. I'm mostly sure that the differen
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