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About Polymaker

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  • Birthday 08/27/1992

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    Crafts, Engineering, Computer Programming & Music

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  1. I found the issue and I just released a new version. This version also includes some improvements and new export options.
  2. I've just tested it and having equal spacing at the bridge has less effect than at the nut. Since the spacing is larger at the bridge, the offset is proportionally smaller (moving a string by 1mm at the bridge is less apparent than moving by 1mm at the nut). I didn't mean to imply this, I was just saying that even if the error caused by equal-spacing is not considerable, it is still added on top of the variation produced by playing. One way of fixing the deflection when fretting a note on multiscale layouts would be to use "à la" true temperament frets:
  3. @Prostheta I'm not entirely sure I understand what you ask but I also had the impression that the errors induced by equal spacing could be compared to the variation induced by fretting, but my current view is that equal-spacing won't make you fret more precisely... So in theory you are inducing more error when using equal-spacing. It may be possible in some case that they cancel-out but I'm not sure. Using (slightly) curved fret on mild multiscale layout would greatly help intonation. But I think that even normal multiscale and up (e.g. 25"-27") are greatly affected by the variation induc
  4. I do something similar to you. When extruding thin line to the actual fret thickness, the sides of the frets don't match the taper of the fretboard. So I used to extend all the line manually, extrude them, then trim them to the fingerboard. This is the main reason why I made the option when exporting, but while at it I made it so you can trim them shorter for those who want to do "blind" frets with a CNC. This is a thing I discovered while developing my software. In theory, straight frets are not accurate, not because of the true temperament stuff but just due to the fact that sin
  5. Yes it is calculated. You may have missed my previous post where I explained it. Changing the tuning and physical properties in the SIL file will have effect on the generated layout. Here are the values that are used to calculate the fret compensation: The unit weights (named UW in lbs./ inch). The default values are from d'Addario data. The modulus of elasticity (named MOE in GPa). The default values are based on what I found on the internet. The core wire diameter (named CoreWireDiameter). The values are the same as the gauge for unwound strings but for wound stri
  6. You're in luck! Like I mentioned, the calculation requires a lot of variables and I haven't found yet a proper way to input them. To achieve such result at the moment you need to manually edit a saved ".sil" file (with notepad). Here is a quick how-to: Create a new blank file and save-it. The default file template has actually most of the values needed for TT. Open the created file in notepad. You will see a tag named "Temperament", set "ThidellFormula" as the value Now set the "FretCompensation" tag value to "true" The next step is require
  7. It is designed for Windows. On the release page you can find 32-bit (x86) and 64-bit (x64) installers (.MSI). Just download the setup and install like any other windows program. The only issue is that Windows 10 security will popup when installing, warning you that it came from internet. Just click advanced and check install anyway (or something like that I don't remember exactly). In the beginning I wanted to make this software cross-platform (for Linux and OSX) but I had trouble finding a cross-platform UI library that could do what I wanted. Documentation is also on my to-do li
  8. @curtisa Sorry if it was not clear, but it is based on the actual calculation. What I meant is since there is many variables (string action, modulus of elasticity, core wire diameter, desired frequency, etc) the results I get at the moment is not quite like the pictures I see (I supperpose my result over a picture of TT). I found an interesting paper that explain how to calculate the fret compensation. * I can no longer find it on the website but I managed to find it again with internetarchive and if you want to look I've put it on my google drive. I'm mostly sure that the differen
  9. Hi folk! I just wanted to let people know that I released a software to generate stringed instrument layouts (aka fingerboard). It is called SiGen and stands for Stringed Instrument layout Generator. I started this project a long time ago and I finally have something that is complete enough to be used by everyone. The software allows a lot of customization through simple inputs/parameters and can export layouts in DXF or SVG. I started this project originally only to have a tool that could handle both metric and imperial values at the same time, a frustration I had wit
  10. This is exactly how I figured it out the pickups were inverted. That's reassuring to hear. My friend gave me the pickups after fixing a phase issue on his guitar. He upgraded his pickups a long time ago with Seymour Duncans HB and a DiMarzio SC and position 2 & 4 were not sounding good. When I did the fix I did not understand at all how it was wired. Having fixed a phase issue on my own-made T type guitar (1SC 1HB), I assumed that I needed to invert the wiring on the middle pickup, but from reading recently about coil splitting and complex wiring I had second thoughts if it was the
  11. Hi guys, I've been given an HSH pickups set not too long ago and while I already finished designing the guitar I'll used them on, I still haven't decided on how I'm going to wire-up the pups. For this build I want to understand what I'm doing instead of blindly following a wiring diagram. Electronics has been my nemesis for a very long time and now I decided to take the time to try and understand how it works. I already learnt quite a bit while finishing my pickup winder last month (I'll make a topic on that as soon as I get my new motor, I fried-it like a rookie when trying to
  12. Wow, I love that neck! And the gold hardware is really nice too. Usually I'm not a big fan but it looks great with that ziricote. Out of personal interest, would you like to explain me how you get a finish like this with tru-oil? I've tried it on my first guitar and I couldn't get results anywhere close to yours. I'm pretty sure my application technique is the main culprit, but I had a hard time trying to get a gloss finish. Can it be buffed the same as a lacquer finish? Also I used polymerized tru-oil if it makes a difference. Thanks
  13. Wow thank you. I'm very humble by nature and I'm not the kind to brag, but I've got to admit that I'm very proud of that bass I have to say that they all have some small defects that don't really show on camera but I'm working really hard to recover from them Also if you have a keen eye you may guess that the design was very inspired by the Ibanez BTB For anyone wondering how bad the headless is, here's a picture: The truss rod is still stuck and while trying to pry-it out the neck started de-laminating. I might try to salvage the body but I'm going to start it over.
  14. I've said I had a bunch of good news but my last post was getting crowded so I split it. First, I've started and well advanced a 6 strings fretless bass. The neck is bubinga/maple/wenge/maple/wenge/maple/bubinga The body wings are ash Over the ash is a walnut veneer, a maple cap and a black walnut top The inlays are made with epoxy mixed with phosphorescent powder (some lines need to be redone) I also started another build, an 8 string guitar! I've only started the body and it will look like this: I've also started another electric ukulele th
  15. Hi everyone one! I'm not dead A lot has been going on recently. And I have a bunch of good news and a sad one. First of, I've finished my single cut , around the end of October... Now as to why I haven't posted yet is because I kinda finished it in a rush because I was eager to finally finish a guitar. This resulted in a nasty uneven finish, and because I didn't want to waste a fresh set of strings I waited until last week to dismantle the guitar and redo the finish. Here is the result: Now the sad news... I have broken my headless in the final steps. It was in part
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