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eubie

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Everything posted by eubie

  1. The neck lines up perfectly with the bridge position and the center line of the body. I was very careful with that, although I'm still going to wait to drill holes until the neck is glued in and I can be sure I'm lining up with reality. The neck angle came out pretty well. I was shooting for 4 degrees and it dry-fits at 5 degrees. I could shim out that last degree, but I'd rather have the solid tenon-to-pocket match-up than to recover that last degree of break angle. Whether the tenon/pocket is fairly "gapless" depends on your definition of "fairly". Overall, the tenon fits tigh
  2. Ok, so it's been a while since my last post, but we are still making progress. Here's the latest update, and more detailed build posts are on my site at http://eubie.com. Last update was that we were starting new with the fretboard. We found a really pretty piece of purpleheart at our local yard, and having learned a little from our mistakes, we cut initial slots, then cut the sides to the profile we wanted, then sanded in the radius, then recut the slots to final depth with a saw that has the right kerf for our frets. Then we glued it up on the neck, and installed the binding and dots
  3. Could be. Could also be that it wasn't originally a Fender Select and someone tried to add a button after the fact, but screwed it up. Do you know anything about the history of the instrument? How did you come by it?
  4. Looks like a cutout for a Fender Select button gone wrong.
  5. I do see the channels in that top picture. It looks like you did a great job of getting them out. One of the great life lessons of woodworking is that sometimes you have to just accept that something didn't go as planned, and then either accept how it turned out, or go back and redo it. The wood doesn't care about my whining.
  6. I have a couple different fret saws, and I'm not entirely sure where any of them came from. In this case, I used the same one that I had used previously on a ukulele fretboard. I think the fretwire I bought for this project had a slightly wider tang, and the wenge has a little less give than the maple I used for the uke. That combination is what probably did me in. It wasn't just that though - it was a combination of things. As I was teaching my son how to slot the board, we ended up with some slots that were a little sloppy to begin with, then we weren't 100% happy with the clay dots
  7. Quick update. Had issues getting frets in - slots were too narrow for the fret tangs, and the wenge just wasn't giving enough to get them in without splintering. Tried to widen the slots with the binding on, and had no joy. Tried to take the binding off and went from inconvenience to total fiasco. So, we're calling it a learning experience, and starting over with a new fretboard blank. Now that we know what were doing, things should progress more quickly.
  8. I'll say it again - beautiful work. I'm a sucker for a really clean, simple style, and you have captured that beautifully. I love the aluminum pick guard. Feeling very jealous right now. -- se
  9. Love the lines on front and curves on back approach. A nice design, plus the added benefit of the comfort against your body. I really like the simplicity of the front and can't wait to see some finish on it.
  10. You and me both. I'll give the starting pin a try, but mostly I just work very carefully around that thing, and take very shallow passes. I don't think so. I'll pick at it a little with my slot cleaner-outer before I put the frets in, but there's not really as much of it as it looks like in those photos. At least that's what I'm telling myself. BTW - In previous projects I've always hammered in frets, but I decided to make a little fretting caul that I can mount in my drill press, and press them in this time. Just seems like a more civilized approach, and the extra time to m
  11. Been a while since I posted progress. Life got in the way a little (work, vacation, stuff). Also, spent a bunch of time building jigs, which slowed some of our progress. But, we have been making progress, and I've just been derelict in my duty to post updates. So the last thing I posted about was the truss rod channel. Since then... Trimmed the fretboard to final width, and trimmed the headstock to final shape using the new router/shaper setup. Cut out the fretboard, radiused and cut fret slots. Bound the fretboard with ivory colored ABS binding
  12. Not sure if this is a feasible solution for you, but what I think I would do is cut about a 2mm deep slot at the point you want the fabric to end. Follow Scott's suggestion about fabric that stretches in both directions. Put glue in the slot, then use a thin edge (like a credit card) to press the fabric into the slot. The width of the slot would depend on the thickness of your fabric, but you want it to barely fit. Extensive testing on scraps would be wise. This will give you a clean edge and avoid fraying. Another approach would be to put a thin, flexible strip (or wood, bent to the
  13. Would this be the wrong time to mention that I hammer in my frets instead of pressing them?
  14. I'm going to bind and fret the fretboard before gluing to the neck, followed by shaping the neck itself. Had I installed the fretboard first, I think I would have fretted before shaping, but as Prostheta said, it's probably fine either way.
  15. Congrats on the GOTM win, Tim. Really nice looking guitar - well deserved. -- se
  16. I think you can use the flush cutters, or a pair of small pliers - as long as the tool is getting a good grip on the fret without denting/gouging the underlying wood. For instance, if a point of your tool is leveraged against the fretboard, you're probably going to end up sad. But if you have a good flat area of the tool distributing its weight on the board, you will probably be ok. Or better yet, get something between the tool and the wood like a credit card or similar - no sharp edges, flat enough to give you a good leverage point, etc. Or just clamp the neck well, and pull the fret out
  17. That turned out very nice. Great work!
  18. So, based on last week's input we put together a plan of action to get the neck finished off, complete with the fretted and bound wenge fretboard. Over the weekend, we successfully dealt with the first two steps of our plan. We started by rough-cutting the shoulders of the neck tenon at the bandsaw. The neck meets the guitar body at a roughly 14.4 degree angle, so I trimmed the shoulders to that angle with a chisel, and, of course, had a chip-out issue. Fortunately, the chip was pretty big, and all in one piece, so it was pretty easy to glue back in with minimal hassle. Then I smoothed do
  19. This has been very helpful - thanks for all the input and different perspectives. Here's where I've landed for the moment. Neck/truss rod/tenon stuff Cut and thickness fretboard blank (keep sides parallel) Cut fret slots Trim fretboard to final dimensions (taper and length) Radius fretboard Bind the fretboard and trim/tweak to final specs Attach fretboard to neck (with pins, cauls and caution) Trim the neck to final width using a pattern bit following the edge of the fretboard Shape the neck (rasps, files and sandpaper) Install frets
  20. That seems reasonable. Sounds like I've got some neck pocket work to attend to as well. I've been back and forth in my head on this issue. Unless someone else suggests differently, I'll let your input sway me and will fret off the body. Thanks @ScottR @curtisaThat means radiusing before it's glued to the neck in my work plan above. Are the benefits of tweaking the slots worth any difficulties I might run up against in putting clamps on the non-flat surface of the radiused fretboard when I glue it on? I know I can use a caul or whatever - just trying to find the right balan
  21. Actually - it's too late for this, but I will do it this way next time. On this one, due to the way laid out the neck on our piece of mahogany, we didn't have a straight side to begin with, so we're just going to have to use a template for the channel. You're totally right about this. In my order above I have the radius shaping after it's installed, but I shape the sides before cutting the frets. I will reverse that order and cut the frets while I still have straight sides so I can be sure all the slots are square. That's a good catch - thanks! New order of operations for #4-6
  22. You're making great progress. This is very nice, especially for a first build. You clearly have brought some skills to the game.
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