bigsuhr

Warmoth uses a swing sander for their compund radius We use a CNC You can do it by hand with a long straight block if you are careful and use radius gauges

Like I said, Tom doesnt do this! He just drys his wood like we all do (before it is painted) After the neck is rough cut it sits for a month to do what it is going to do before leveling the fingerboard. After the guitar is built it sits in the case over the weekend and the truss rod is readjusted before shipped the following week. Best to build using wood that is 5% with a good moisture meter Never let it dry out too quickly or you'll crack the wood. John Suhr

There is Carbon based paint which is fine if you use two coats, you can use a hair dryer between coats Copper tape which isnt easy to get unless you buy bulk works fine if you are not trying to make money doing it. I get a copper based water paint from Spraylat which works great and is the same as a copper tape but is painted on. Gotta buy 1 gall min and it isnt cheap You might be able to get nickel print from an electronics store but it is solvent based so dont get any on the paint or you'll be sorry. You wont find any of this in Lowes or Hardware stores, best bet is stew-mac.com if you are a DIY

Tom doesnt do this The body wood is cured in an oven for a week and then is allowed to sit for a week or so, the necks are precut for 1 month before final fingerboard true, same as we do. To put it in 50 deg and the hot would just be asking the wood to crack

I dont understand the problem, you have a router or a pinrouter? Draw a center line on the body, use plexi templates with a bearing cutter that is on the router side and you should be good You can hold the templates to the body if you have double stick or find a place to use screws. Where did the geometry come from or is there any?