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About Hugo

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    the Netherlands (that's Europe...)
  1. Mattia, thanks for the offer, I think I'm gonna hold you to it. If I make the mold and prepair a few pairs of side strips, can I visit you and be your humble pupil? Cheers, Hugo
  2. OK, it's in Dutch but with about 100 pics. PM me should you want to discuss details. Link to build topic Hugo
  3. Ok, temp OK, need moist. I'll look into the lamp-deal, I have a 500W lamp here which I used when rebuilding the house; not only did it provide 'sufficient' light, but also it dried the plaster really quick! Had to take it away from the wall to avoid the plaster cracking. Hmmm, might put a dimmer on it to controll... I just read somewhere else Limba is hard to bend. Aaargh. Do you speak from first hand experience? Thanks, Hugo
  4. Wow, that looks nice. Very proffessional. I'm a bit hesitant to invest in the blankets, since I' only build solid bodies except for this project. Although the dollar is low... I think I'll try with the lamp arrangement. Or with an idea I just came up with: I have an oven (to bake cakes in. I have a girlfriend for that...) This oven is large enough to put the wood in, bent in a C shape, holding the ends with a bit of string to maintain the C shape. The wood is in it's unbent, cool state flexible enough to make the C-bend. If I heat the oven to 300F, leave the wood in for say half an hour, sh
  5. Well, just about what the title says. I'd like to bend the sides of an es335 like guitar on a home made fox bender, but the problem is my bend would have the es335 cutaway bend the normal western acoustic hasn't. Can it be done? In which order to bend? Etc. Pics greatly appriciated. Cheers, Hugo
  6. OK, today I sliced the 2 logs. Manually. 240mm wide, 600 long. Why isn't my bandsaw just a fraction taller?? Anyway, it's done, and I'll now smooth them out and join per 'no. 5'. Just went into my parts cabinet and pulled out 2 P90 pickups. I think they're going on this one, with a simple 3 position switch and one volume pot. I like it simple. Hugo
  7. OK, 5mm will be the goal. I know about slicing the wood at an angle, but it was way to thick to start with. Cutting at an angle is saving wood, starting with a thinner log. Hugo
  8. Thanks for the replies, guys. OK, number 5 it is! I will use the Limba to see which result I get, and don't worry about the thickness: have wou ever looked inside an es335? It's fairly solid, I will make something similar taking up the forces. I think the body construction will be a nice mix between guitar building and model aircraft construction (other hobby). And this certainly isn't my first build, but it will be my first non-solid body. Although I built a Thinline Tele, but that doesn't count, 'cause I cheated: cut the body and cavities from solid and then glued 1/8" maple ply to the
  9. Hello all, I've just decided to take the plunge and build a jazz guitar. Top and back will be cut from white Limba. Now I bought two nice slabs, but they're not perrfectly quarter sawn. I'll slice the blocks in two, and I'm now contemplating on how to put them together. A little drawing explaines more, I hope: Top is the full block. Second is the two halves. Third is bookmathed (folded open), showing the curve-to-be.. Fourth is bookmatched and turned over, so the curve is it a different part. Fifth is with the left part flipped over. I like this one. Sixth and last is the same a
  10. Hi, Despite being Dutch, I use 2 Porter Cable routers in my workshop. For this purpose, I have bought a transformer to go from 220V to 110V. So far, I have used it, wired up using a lot of duct tape and loose wires. It works, but I'm afraid it will fry my curious dog, one of these days. So today, I've built a little cabinet around the transformer, with a Dutch plug on one side. Now I need an American wall socket to put on the other side of the cabinet, but it seems quite a task to aquire such an item here. Would someone be kind enough to go out to the local hardware store and buy one, st
  11. Hi, I've made a template with which I can reproduce my own design solid body. I used to saw with a jigsaw and sand until I dropped, but now I stick my template onto the body blank, use a bandsaw to cut fairly close to the template and then finish the contour with a template router bit (with bearing running against the template). I machine as parrallel to the grain of the wood as I can, always 'down hill'. As I was told, long ago. But at two places, the bit diggs out chunks of wood, instead of leaving a smooth surface. Picture a strat body in your mind, if you will: 1) at the lower half
  12. Great, thanks! I've pasted and scaled them in AutoCAD, works a treat. Cheers, Hugo
  13. Hi, I'm in the middle of making router molds to make life easier, and I'm looking for (digital) drawings of the holes that need to be machined into a body to accomodate the std strat trem, 2 point strat trem, floyd rose and whatever you can think of. Please post them here. I can work with pretty much any format, even a scanned in sketch, although DWG or DXF would be most appriciated. Cheers, Hugo
  14. Hi, browsing some news sites, I picked up this. The site is proteceted from deep-linking (or whatever it's called) to I copied and pasted the text: Line6 Flexplayer I, play like a pro! Just after you’ve gotten over the shock of our amp-modelling, we hit you with the Variax series guitars. And now that you caught on to that, we hit you with our latest and greatest: the Flexplayer gloves! Our engineers really went out on a limb on this one, modelling guitar player’s hands. We took a look at speed, flexibility, coordination, and what all of that did for the sound. Pick type, or roughn
  15. Hi, building my first arch top, here's my idea of how to make the top and back sections. I want to laminate 4 layers of veneer, each 0.6 mm together. I steam one sheet, vacuum mold it over a (plaster) mold. Once the first layer is dry, I aply glue to it, and vacuum-mold the second steamed sheet over the first. The final layer will of course be a nice birds-eye maple... The result should be a 2.5 mm molded top (or back) thin but stif because of the layers and glue. Is this the way to go? Any tips? Is it thick / strong enough? What bracing should I glue on? I see many archtops with har
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