Jump to content

Hugo

Members
  • Posts

    30
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Hugo

  1. Mattia, thanks for the offer, I think I'm gonna hold you to it. If I make the mold and prepair a few pairs of side strips, can I visit you and be your humble pupil? Cheers, Hugo
  2. OK, it's in Dutch but with about 100 pics. PM me should you want to discuss details. Link to build topic Hugo
  3. Ok, temp OK, need moist. I'll look into the lamp-deal, I have a 500W lamp here which I used when rebuilding the house; not only did it provide 'sufficient' light, but also it dried the plaster really quick! Had to take it away from the wall to avoid the plaster cracking. Hmmm, might put a dimmer on it to controll... I just read somewhere else Limba is hard to bend. Aaargh. Do you speak from first hand experience? Thanks, Hugo
  4. Wow, that looks nice. Very proffessional. I'm a bit hesitant to invest in the blankets, since I' only build solid bodies except for this project. Although the dollar is low... I think I'll try with the lamp arrangement. Or with an idea I just came up with: I have an oven (to bake cakes in. I have a girlfriend for that...) This oven is large enough to put the wood in, bent in a C shape, holding the ends with a bit of string to maintain the C shape. The wood is in it's unbent, cool state flexible enough to make the C-bend. If I heat the oven to 300F, leave the wood in for say half an hour, should I be able to fold and clamp it around a mold? Or do we need to keep heating during the bending process? BTW, I'm considering making the sides out of Limba, since I have some lying around. Would this bend easily? Cheers, Hugo
  5. Well, just about what the title says. I'd like to bend the sides of an es335 like guitar on a home made fox bender, but the problem is my bend would have the es335 cutaway bend the normal western acoustic hasn't. Can it be done? In which order to bend? Etc. Pics greatly appriciated. Cheers, Hugo
  6. OK, today I sliced the 2 logs. Manually. 240mm wide, 600 long. Why isn't my bandsaw just a fraction taller?? Anyway, it's done, and I'll now smooth them out and join per 'no. 5'. Just went into my parts cabinet and pulled out 2 P90 pickups. I think they're going on this one, with a simple 3 position switch and one volume pot. I like it simple. Hugo
  7. OK, 5mm will be the goal. I know about slicing the wood at an angle, but it was way to thick to start with. Cutting at an angle is saving wood, starting with a thinner log. Hugo
  8. Thanks for the replies, guys. OK, number 5 it is! I will use the Limba to see which result I get, and don't worry about the thickness: have wou ever looked inside an es335? It's fairly solid, I will make something similar taking up the forces. I think the body construction will be a nice mix between guitar building and model aircraft construction (other hobby). And this certainly isn't my first build, but it will be my first non-solid body. Although I built a Thinline Tele, but that doesn't count, 'cause I cheated: cut the body and cavities from solid and then glued 1/8" maple ply to the front and back. Worked well, BTW. I think I will route out the back inside first, in steps, then cut and sand 'till I get the complete curve. Then turn the lot over and repeat the procedure on the outside-side. This way I allways have a flat surface to clamp. All hints and tips are welcome... Cheers, Hugo
  9. Hello all, I've just decided to take the plunge and build a jazz guitar. Top and back will be cut from white Limba. Now I bought two nice slabs, but they're not perrfectly quarter sawn. I'll slice the blocks in two, and I'm now contemplating on how to put them together. A little drawing explaines more, I hope: Top is the full block. Second is the two halves. Third is bookmathed (folded open), showing the curve-to-be.. Fourth is bookmatched and turned over, so the curve is it a different part. Fifth is with the left part flipped over. I like this one. Sixth and last is the same as the fifth, but turned over. Which method would you recommend and why? It doesn't really matter what the result looks like (grain-wise...) 'cause it will get a solild finish. It will be carved to about 3mm (1/8") thickness. REMARK: Dutch readers, please do not mention anything about this on the Dutch Gitaarnet Forum. I build this instrument to impress my girlfriend, and both she and me frequent the Dutch forum. So hush! Thanks, Hugo
  10. Hi, Despite being Dutch, I use 2 Porter Cable routers in my workshop. For this purpose, I have bought a transformer to go from 220V to 110V. So far, I have used it, wired up using a lot of duct tape and loose wires. It works, but I'm afraid it will fry my curious dog, one of these days. So today, I've built a little cabinet around the transformer, with a Dutch plug on one side. Now I need an American wall socket to put on the other side of the cabinet, but it seems quite a task to aquire such an item here. Would someone be kind enough to go out to the local hardware store and buy one, stick it into a cardboard envelope and send it to me? Please contact me by PM. I have paypal to pay for it. Cheers, Hugo
  11. Hi, I've made a template with which I can reproduce my own design solid body. I used to saw with a jigsaw and sand until I dropped, but now I stick my template onto the body blank, use a bandsaw to cut fairly close to the template and then finish the contour with a template router bit (with bearing running against the template). I machine as parrallel to the grain of the wood as I can, always 'down hill'. As I was told, long ago. But at two places, the bit diggs out chunks of wood, instead of leaving a smooth surface. Picture a strat body in your mind, if you will: 1) at the lower half of the inner corner of the upper horn, it left ugly bitemarks. 2) Starting at 6 o'clock on the rear curve, say below the knobs, I move up towards 9 o'clock. About in the middle, it goes wrong. On the other side of this rear curve, say from 12 o'clock down to 9, it's perfect and smooth. Some facts: The bit is new and sharp, not spiral. The wood is American Elder, not quarter sawn but the other one (my English runs out, here). What am I doing wrong? I've never had this with quarter sawn mahogany, which I used on previous projects. Will using a spiral bit make a difference? Please advise, all input is welcome. Cheers, Hugo
  12. Great, thanks! I've pasted and scaled them in AutoCAD, works a treat. Cheers, Hugo
  13. Hi, I'm in the middle of making router molds to make life easier, and I'm looking for (digital) drawings of the holes that need to be machined into a body to accomodate the std strat trem, 2 point strat trem, floyd rose and whatever you can think of. Please post them here. I can work with pretty much any format, even a scanned in sketch, although DWG or DXF would be most appriciated. Cheers, Hugo
  14. Hi, browsing some news sites, I picked up this. The site is proteceted from deep-linking (or whatever it's called) to I copied and pasted the text: Line6 Flexplayer I, play like a pro! Just after you’ve gotten over the shock of our amp-modelling, we hit you with the Variax series guitars. And now that you caught on to that, we hit you with our latest and greatest: the Flexplayer gloves! Our engineers really went out on a limb on this one, modelling guitar player’s hands. We took a look at speed, flexibility, coordination, and what all of that did for the sound. Pick type, or roughness of the bear fingers, we’ve taken it all into account. The result is a set of gloves, complete with pick in the right hand glove (left-hand will be available end of the summer) and a little midi computer you can clip onto your belt. And then, the magic starts. Select a pro and away you go! Be as fast like Vai, melodic like May, get the bluessound of Clapton. You name it, it’s there. Of course, a computer hookup is possible via the midi port, a full workbench has been added for your convenience. This enables you to mix hands from different players, even fingers if you like. However, a bit of a warning here, not all guitarists hand like to be paired with others. This bug does not seem to want to be solved, for some odd reason. Furthermore, the midi port can of course interact with our amps and guitars. This enables you to store combinations, like a soldano amp, a prs guitar and Santana’s hands under a simple preset on your guitar. But of course, the Flexplayer will work with any of your regular gear, too. Amazing, what will they think of, next. Cheers, Hugo
  15. Hi, building my first arch top, here's my idea of how to make the top and back sections. I want to laminate 4 layers of veneer, each 0.6 mm together. I steam one sheet, vacuum mold it over a (plaster) mold. Once the first layer is dry, I aply glue to it, and vacuum-mold the second steamed sheet over the first. The final layer will of course be a nice birds-eye maple... The result should be a 2.5 mm molded top (or back) thin but stif because of the layers and glue. Is this the way to go? Any tips? Is it thick / strong enough? What bracing should I glue on? I see many archtops with hardly any bracing, which suprizes me greatly... Cheers, Hugo
  16. Okidoki, I have some drawings, mostly digital, so I can design all specific parts. It's not going to be a 100% replica, but no big changes, either. But now, for the construction. Some ideas, please add or shoot: The sides, either 1) I steam bend the sides from 3 mm thick, or 2) I can laminate them form 4 layers of veneer. Both labour intensife, but I don't want to cut it form solid! The top and back, either 1) I can cut it from solid, or 2) I can steam form it from 2 or 3 mm ply (what type?) or 3) I can laminate it form 3 or 4 layers of veneer. This is what I came up with. Please feel free to add ideas, show how, etc. Cheers, Hugo
  17. Hi, setting out to build a guitar, I have made numerous drawings, designs, etc, but to no avail. Everything I draw up just doesn't feel right, and doesn't come close to the ES 335 which I really like. Now I know this is probably not an easy instrument to make, I know buying a replica is probably cheaper and easier, but I WANT TO BUILD ONE. Period. And since this is a well known instrument, I hope someone sells detailed plans of the instrument. But the search hasn't been succesfull yet, so please help me if you can. Cheers, Hugo
  18. Thanks, lads, it's very close to straight, again. But what is the idea behind weighing it? I already pu a lable on it, telling my girlfriend to LEAVE IT ALONE. Cheers, Hugo
  19. Hi, while rebuilding part of my house, my girlfriend helped me by collecting all debris and scrap pieces and put them out in te yard. Unfortunately, she also found my top-wood (flamed maple, bookmatched, etc) and put it on the stack outside as well. So when I loaded the trailer to take the scrap away, I found my two pieces wet and warped. They're about 1/2 inch thick. I took them back in and hit my girlfriend over the head with them, and then placed them in a warm, dry place. Any chance they will un-warp, dry and be useful again? Cheers, Hugo
  20. I'm certainly up for that! If you know where and when, I'll try to join you. BTW, I'll PM you my e-mail address, that's easier than the PM system, I think. Cheers, Hugo
  21. Uh, I don't know if it's just me, but I get the feeling I should stick with proper tone-wood and not try the timbershop... Cheers, Hugo
  22. It's two (outer) strips of merantie (what's that in English?) and 1 (inner) strip of maple, for a neck-through-body. And yes, it's fresh wood, hence my question. Cheers, Hugo
  23. True, but the builing supply shop across the street here has beautifull wood, for making windowsills. Good looking, straight, no knots, but new. If the 'new' bit isn't a problem, I'll get myself a nice set. Cheers, Hugo
  24. Hi, in another threat, I found this link. It say's, amongst other things, that you can build a neck using new wood from the building supply store / DIY store. Is this a good option? It's a hell lot cheaper then from the tone wood shop. I also would like to make a neck through body, so it will be a little longer than the regular neck. Any comments? Cheers, Hugo
  25. OK, a new idea. Not that I could'nt do the routing, but I just thought this would be nice: It's a solid core, with a canal routed into it to connect the two large chambers. The sidewalls would be steamformed. Pros, cons, other comments, everything (constructive) is welcome! Cheers, Hugo
×
×
  • Create New...