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mistermikev

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Everything posted by mistermikev

  1. so, was thinking on my way home... what if you did a compound radius fretboard... but on the bass and the treble side you did different starting and ending radius? ie... for gbe - you go 7.25" - 20" and on ead you go 10" -16". at the center they would essentially be a line shooting to the last fret - where the two arcs would join together. bending over that line would actually get easier as you'd reach into a bigger radius so it might make for some unusual feel... but maybe not. as you played to the higher notes the low side - which doesn't get as much use... would get thinn
  2. noice. there are a couple of similar type spots near me where you can get tips and use industrial machinery... plus if you cut your hand off there will be someone right there to slap a bandaid on!! awesome sauce!
  3. i somehow missed earlier post of bass with three fricking humbuckers? "I like the cut of your jig sir". that is going to have a LOT of options... v nice work.
  4. so... was looking for fretboard maple... and I have some that will match this one... so revision 12321312355532.fgggabade.3329. would love your thoughts.
  5. went looking for a fretboard for my friend's tele... and just got this 12" wide flamed maple... wasn't sure how it would really look because it is so white... well, this is how it looks.
  6. right on. I might be able to give myself a pass on using the black wilkinson on my prototype... but then chrome looks really nice with turquoise too! could go right back to gotoh!
  7. nothing wrong with wilkinson. They are just the korea/china faction of gotoh (if I'm not mistaken). The gotoh compensated saddles are better and gotoh in general is a hair nicer quality. Also, perhaps it's just me, but when slapping together $1000+ in parts/materials for a guitar... putting wilkinson on it kind of seems a bit... well... out of place?
  8. well, again the only black one gotoh makes is a modern version... (with no side walls) and I'm not sure that would look great. I have found a wilkinson version in black... but we've already purchased a gold gotoh one so... and gold sd510 tuners. Perhaps I'll do black for my prototype... just to be a jackwagon.
  9. well, they do it's just the 'modern'. afa I could find they don't make a traditional tele bridge in black. his initial request was that it be a very 'twangy' guitar... and with that in mind - you gotta have the brass barrel saddles!
  10. funny, originally he wanted black hardware... but the only black tele bridge we could find was wilkinson... perhaps maybe I should buy black for my prototype but then he'll likely want to steal it from me at the end!!
  11. lovely body blank. truss channel looks nice. good work.
  12. "I was all set on the blue/purple until you showed me the turquoise" - his words. hehe. So... need to find some wood that I can use for a headstock/fretboard for that one as I want to keep the matching wood with one of the tops it came from. Will use that wood for my prototype so... joined it up last night: extra points for capturing belly + shoes in the shot!! side note: tablesaw - such a nice tablesaw but the fence is crap. I adjusted the tension for locking it down... but it only locks on the one side... other side has a wheel that just rides along... and with enough pre
  13. yeah, wenge is not fun - I love it but dang it can hurt! So can oak!! when I was young I was sanding a big cabinet by hand with a piece of loose sandpaper... unknown to me that was a big hidden split on one of the edges... slid my hand right into it... got a big splinter that went through 3 fingers. this was oak... got most of the splinter out... but the numerous little splinters festered and I can tell you it was very painful! I imagine bamboo can be very sharp. also very beautiful. should be some cool colors in that.
  14. Fascinating stuff. no intention of using bamboo anytime soon (I imagine the splinters are deadly) but good to know and fascinating in general. thanks for sharing.
  15. seems to me that if you slot first... then radius... unless you cut your slots with a lot of extra depth you are going to have to likely re-slot them after radius... or at least check them good - but that's not uncommon. freq use pre slotted and radius boards... and the issue there becomes ensuring you have the accurate centerline (everyone seems to draw a big fat line and finding the center of that always makes me nervous). I think it's safe to say that any way you do it there is going to be benefits and pitfalls... and no matter what way you do it you just have to be aware of those benefit
  16. man... lotta parts! looks like an insane amount of work!! really liking where this is going. "offroad" - I admire your bravery!!
  17. right on, I love your detailed feedback. I was actually thinking I'd do chrome hardware if I went turquoise... as it just looks great together... but I think gold would end up looking good too. Honestly... I think all 3 of them have something going for them and any one could be a good guitar... but the turquoise really resonates w me... I just have a thing for turquoise! (don't tell my wife)
  18. so... did some revised mock ups to help my friend decide... would love some feedback if y'all would be so kind altho ultimately it's his choice. That said... I think I'm going to make this turqoise one my secondary...
  19. so... my buddy having a hard time choosing between these tops... but is leaning towards the 2nd one above. Since I'm doing a prototype and assuming I don't render it kaputs along the way... I'll choose a top from whatever he doesn't pick and slap it on that. this will be the fretboard and headstock overlay bookmatched from matching wood...
  20. very much appreciate that scott. it's very white in color... and initially I thought maybe a mid 4... but now I'm seeing a little 'color stain' in the center there that is making me think more like low 4... and then the little flaw there at the bottom just to the right of the centerline. unfortunately the 'flash side' of this board is that view... so that little flaw would be hard to avoid... but perhaps long enough to get it out of the cut zone altogether. thank you again!!
  21. and the result from bookmatching kevin's piece... two very dif pieces of maple... first one is very light color and lower contrast... would prob benefit from a lot of sand back... second has a lot of chatoyance and high contrast... darker wood and def made the planer work more. I'd be curious of your thoughts afa "which one is better".
  22. sorry, wasn't trying to discourage at all... those are just the thoughts I have in MY head on the matter (probably would have been best left in my head!!). I wish you nothing but your absolute dream fulfilled!!
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