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Posts posted by mistermikev

  1. idk guys... maybe you SHOULD dunk the whole pickup... then you can call it an antiquity!  

    have often thought about etching pickup covers.  I've never done the electrolytic method but have etched about a zillion pcb boards and lots and lots of aluminum pedal enclosures with both Ammonium persulfate and ferric chloride.  Idk if electrolytic generates any heat but ferric sure does and that would def melt the wax potting on a pickup.  

    sounds like you are on to taking the cover off anyway... good on ya.  would love to see pics of the process.  

    what I know about pnp blue/ferric/persulfate etc is that it take a lot of trial and error to get a fine detail design to come out using etchant.  always end up with micro bubbles in the overlay and have to spend a lot of time patching with an etch pen.  even if you get the thing perfect... if it gets heated pieces can flake off and create ugly spots.  PITA but it can be done.

    with all that in mind... if I ever get there - def going to get a laser for etching that sort of thing!!

  2. pretty sure I've actually seen someone do a bolt-on on this type of prs where they had the neck extend under the pickup, but had bolts going into it on the back side.  you could extend the pocket... and if you sculpted it right you could likely even get it to be as comfy.  ie using ferrules and screws as opposed to a neck plate.  there's not really a lot of wood there to begin with so i would think you'd need to go out approx 1.25-1.5 inches but sure... why not.  

    I think you COULD use the current neck pocket... but I wouldn't.  It would likely hold as long is it didn't get dropped but if it got dropped it'd be all over.  scale length... if you are mounting some neck you bought on this... I'd think real hard about that.  prs should be with a 25" scale not 25.5 so... bridge position is going to shift if you try to put the wrong one on and even with the right neck scale... it has to be positioned to give you the full scale in the place you want it.  if no bridge is present... you could get away with a lot but note that the curves are designed to sit on your leg while you play and too much adjustment could compromise the ergonomics.

    • Like 1
  3. 2 hours ago, Jeremy Cooper said:

    Resurrecting this thread with a question I can't seem to find an answer to - why plane the angle onto the body? Why not cut it into the bottom of the neck heel? Especially if you're building a guitar with a slab body rather than a carve top it may not be desirable to have a gradient at the neck end of the body, and it strikes me as potentially being a little bit simpler? Use the trick as described by Ben to work out your angle, draw it onto your neck heel, make a single. accurate cut with a Jigsaw/Bandsaw, do some sanding to get it smooth, and job's a good 'un? Plus you retain a flat body (I'm looking at my PRS Starla and that definitely doesn't have a slope planed into the front of the body. Yes they probably did it on a CNC but still, it's an aspect of the design one might wish to replicate if building a guitar at home...?

    have often thought of a variation on this: in theory you could achieve the sm effect by planing the neck angle into the back of the body.  ie the front of the guitar would remain completely flat... but the back of the guitar would have a slope.  the reason it wouldn't be a great option; on a les paul for example, is because of the effect that putting the pickups "back in the body" would have on the sound, if that makes any sense.  also folks like the fact that strings are raised off the body making it less cramped against the face of the body.  (EDIT - also you'd have to countersink the bridge)

    folks do, in fact, cut the angle into the neck.  idk anything about the starla... but on a 22/24... all have a slope in the body and that negates any benefit (in terms of ease). 

    the les paul (for example) has a 1/2 degree slope that extends from just in front of the bridge pickup to the end of the neck... so if you have to cut that anyway... might as well make it easy on yourself and cut two slopes into the body front... then simply use that slope to cut the neck pocket.  

  4. I don't want to litter your thread with too much but when you were talking about neck profile... I'm working on a neck doing the orig evh/axis profile and the odd thing about it to me is how it sort of 'bulges' out around the 12th fret.  not a linear/gradual change.  Using a number of dif references for profile so I'm sure this is how it is but never noticed playing an axis.  My point is eddies odd contribution to neck profiles shouldn't be understated - afaik he pretty much started the whole asym profile thing and that neck, while nothing like a wizard, is easily as comfy despite being much thicker.  eddie was a wizard.

    tanin - yes, the min you said b4 vs after was thinking about the lines it would create doing it after.  my vote is for b4 but I know nothing.

  5. well treated to a prostheta build... looking fwd to it.  everyone thinks about building an evh at some point I assume... and I've def thought about it.  for me... the single pickup baretta variation he used on panama video is my fav... but not sure I could build one w/o adding a neck pickup and ruining it!  the mm evh being a close second for me.  the frankenstrat, the yellow/black strat, all have a place in my heart.  the shark prob is the pinnacle of tone guitar... but lets face it - no one wants to build that monstrosity!  I suspect there will be a lot of cool things to see in your build and I will follow along while drooling. 

  6. sounds about right...

    I think on a bridge like that square would be better... plus if you move one side fwd a bit you've just changed your ctr. 

    I think your post holes will not be on the intonnation line but further back.  

    the way I'd determine sqr would be to put a good straight edge on each side of the fretboard and draw a line.  use ruler from center of 12th fret and measure back half scale length and make a mark.  do this for both sides of the fretboard then connect the dots with a line.  then measure bridge width and make marks along that horizontal (either side of the bridge) to position your bridge ctr.  then lay the bridge down and mark the edge of the post hole area.  then measure from that mark fwd half the distance of your post diameter where the post interfaces with the bridge.

    idk if any of that makes sense... so my parting advice would be to maybe hope to get a few answers to your question and between the few perhaps we'll get to the church on time!!  lol.


    • Like 1
  7. 43 minutes ago, killemall8 said:

    Sorry, it was late and i might not have been as clear as i needed to be.

    That is with 2.0mm action, unfretted at the 12th. which i consider very high action.

    That is also with almost no relief in the 7-9th fret area


    nah, I think you were clear... that's on me... I'm just not good with reading... and letters... or numbers... concepts are a challenge for me... hehe!

    • Haha 1
  8. the thing that stands out to me in your post is .08mm... that's pretty low no?  I mean, I like low action myself... and don't bother to measure ever... but I thought 1-1.5mm is good - def not high.  I'm pretty sure my jem is in that range... and it plays great.  If you manhandle that guitar it will buzz but it's not fret buzz - it's string rattle.  If you play soft/fast - no buzz. so if you are getting 2mm at the nut/24th and .08mm at the 13th... sounds like the issue is too much relief.  I would think relaxing the bow  and doing some fall off at the 17-24 would allow the string some room to vibrate w/o hitting the frets.  perhaps I'm misunderstanding something.  

    sorry, saw my mistake - "when fretted .08mm"

  9. well did a test run... had some issues due to my bending the laws of the software I'm using.  has a number of 'training wheels' setup to prevent you from cutting too deep or making things beyond your stock dimensions... and this did not suit my plans of not doubling my work as I tried to do two necks in one project.  they have several things in common and wanted to keep them together at least until I worked out the bugs... so had to separate them.  got that done and started another test.  flat spot is due to initial test... but all in all not bad.  profile looks good and didn't break through the truss cavity or anything.  

    the headstock transition also went a bit off as the first pass was screwy... but the lowest part of it is my intended run and I can see it will work fine.  might touch that up a bit and bring it another 1/2 inch towards the headstock... we'll see.




    my engraving went quite wrong.. can't even read it... was using a 20deg engrave tip... my guess is the detail is just too fine.  will have to redo that.


  10. 5 minutes ago, MiKro said:

    Thanks Mike, I plan to get something on the CNC today for controls. Just not sure of the plan yet. LOL!!!


    right on.  not sure if you got my reference above... but skate or die was catchphrase from the 80's game "720" which was a skateboard came... and had an unusual rotating joystick.  


    obviously if you didn't play this one game... that controller wouldn't make sense... but if I ever build one... gonna have to figure that out!!  99% of games would be handled via 1 joystick and two buttons for me.  

    • Like 1
  11. 1 minute ago, MiKro said:

    Now to decide the control layout? I am thinking Single player with 2 joysticks. a 4 way and an 8 way. Some of the games work better with the 4 way and others the 8 way.

    Then comes the number of buttons as well? 4, 6 , 8 buttons? That does not include any admin types for start, test, coin? Pinball side buttons for simulated Pinball game?

    I don't think I need a trackball or spinner? I can't think of any games on this that really need one? What a PITA to figure out.  I may need to allow for it later though?



    There is only one thing a true child of the 80's would say to something like that... and that is "SKATE OR DIE"!!!  looks pretty cool so far bud.

    • Haha 1
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