Lex Luthier

Anything in particular?

Yeah, I've seen that before, but couldn't remember the link.

You mean like these? http://www.conklinguitars.com/facebass/4gallery/4smoke.html http://www.conklinguitars.com/facebass/5ga...5spaltmelt.html http://www.conklinguitars.com/facebass/6gallery/6swirl.html http://www.conklinguitars.com/facebass/6ga.../6lacemelt.html http://www.conklinguitars.com/facebass/7ga...walnutmelt.html http://www.conklinguitars.com/facebass/7gallery/73d.html

This seems to hardly ever come up, even on a woodworking forum I frequent it's not brought up very often. I have two shopvacs, one for each room of my shop for general clean up, but when I got larger sized tools, the shopvacs didn't do much so I thought about a real dust collector. I looked into one of these, but when I asked the salesman at the store if it could be mounted on a wall, he said no. Space was an issue, so I couldn't go with the regular design of dust collector, even with it's small foot print. I decided to make one. My dad gave me a large squirrel cage motor from a restaurant's oven hood, which I'm assuming is explosion proof because it was covered with grease. The opening of the intake was 6", and needed to be stepped down to 4". I couldn't find any adaptors at tool outlets, so I used plumbing fixtures and LOTS of silicone. On the outtake, at first I installed a little filter cartidge that screwed right into the end where I had a plumbing fixture fastened, but I found it blocked too much air - dust collectors can only suck in as much air as they can blow out - so I changed my setup to what is pictured below. I have the outtake running into a garbage can. Inside the garbage can I have a cone made of paper. My theory is the cone creates a vortex and traps most of the dust, and what escapes gets caught by the furnace filter. Image 1 Image 2 This is how I have the motor mounted. Image 3 Here is the filter. Image 4 Image 5 Here is the inside. Image 6 My idea behind the cone. When I took these pictures, it was the first time opening up the can since constructing it. There is a good amount of sawdust in the very bottom, which would have otherwise been all over my shop. I also found it necessary NOT to touch the furnace filter, as with use a layer of dust builds up, further blocking dust from escaping, and touching it caused clouds to puff up when I would then turn on the machine. You may think the garbage can takes up as much room as one of those dust collectors, but not really, plus it only cost me about $50 to make. BTW, it's quite as hell.

Brad point bits are actually meant for wood, not so much the regular twist bits.

From here everything looks fine. Guitars with arched tops need the neck set back, especially if they use a tune-o-matic type bridge.

Dido. You could try needle files though, that what I used to use.

I voted finishing. I can do a mean oil finish, but I suck with spray finishing. I find the whole level sanding portion tedious, though if I was better at it, I'd probably enjoy it. I don't fully understand the whole washcoat/sealer/primer/basecoat/topcoat thing, or whatever.

It may just be the availablity.

I'll just hold my tongue... I would think it would just come off with a chisel, but that may depend on the type of tile. It cleans up with hot water, but that's when it's still a little wet.

I doubt the Fender one is worth $120 - you probably pay the extra $60 for the saddles to say 'FENDER', I'm betting. I don't know about the jack, but I bet the pots are the small kind, which don't last as long as the larger ones because they have a smaller sweeper. I was gonna put those on my American Strat, but I don't care about upgrading it anymore, though I think those would be fine tuning machines.

It's my understanding that nitro tends to not flex, and is known to check. My friend used to finish his guitars with nitro but switched when he noticed it would check, even on a new instrument. I've also heard Martin's finished in nitro do the same, my friend even has a Martin with finish checks in the top.

Yes, if we all knew, we could stop a bit, or slow it down Curtis We'd have to stop coming to Project Guitar Forum to do that. It has to do with page loading, or something, not quite sure, but basically the more people viewing your website, the more bandwidth gets used up.

All that depends on a couple factors. The nut width depends on what you are comfortable with. The spacing of the strings at the 24th fret depends on your bridge spacing. I've built two basses, both to similar specs, on can be seen here. The nut width is 1 3/4". The spacing of the bridge is 2 1/2". The width of the neck at the 24th fret is 2 5/8".

You mean like the Advanced Support Section? How will it differ from that?

You can't use wood glue to glue metal to wood. The best would be epoxy. Other than that, that's all I'll say, I didn't know you had to glue in those types of truss rod, but just don't use wood glue.

I thought I saw something about another hurricane hitting Florida, but I thought,"wasn't there just a hurricane?" Hope you stay safe.

Did the bit wander? You can use a scribe to mark a starting point so the bit stays inplace.

Not necessarily the experienced, but the 'older' members, and if that's what they want to do, bye. As far as I know, I'm staying. ______________________ Oh really Matt? Weren't you the one who left for, what, 6 months, while we were all still here? Wasn't it, in fact, YOU who actually DID leave? Seems kinda (actually very) hypocritical to me, beings as you just showed up again at the front door, couldn't even remember your username anymore and all while we were all still here the whole time, and now you're giving us all the big kissoff like that. Would you mind spindoctoring yourself out of that one for me? You have a problem with that or something? I dissappeared twice, for only a few months at a time, and it's not like I HAVE TO BE HERE. You make it sound like a crime that I left and came back, and it's not like I left because of these changes that are taking place. You just made a big deal out of nothing. What's up with you?

Walnut has open pores like Mahogany, Rosewood. Why would you use it for a top? You'd use a softwood such as Englemann/Sitka Spruce, or Cedar.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^ That's for clafiying(sp?) that Litch. That would make no sense if it were true. Not necessarily the experienced, but the 'older' members, and if that's what they want to do, bye. As far as I know, I'm staying.

This may sound bad, but what are the main problems here again? Is it 'bad advice', or too many young people not listening, or the changes, which, to me, don't seem very drastic. What EXACTLY is pissing people off? EDIT:Well, ONE of the recent changes does seem odd to me...

What forum? May I join?

That is totally awesome! That kinda reminds me of an episode of Orange County Choppers, where a kid named Cody was given the bike he worked on for the show after it was done. Good Stuff LGM!

Then just do it by hand. Use a spokeshave and/or rasps & files. It'll be a fun learning experience. The more power tools you use to make your guitar the easier it is, but that takes away from the fun.