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I used the clothes iron steam technique, sighting down the fretboard it appears very slightly raised in that area. I got the wood damper than I should I have while steaming no doubt. I guess it's time for a trip to the only luthier in town for a possble fret level and/or is there a good tutorial for a greenhorn repairman like me on leveling. Thanks man for responding.

Hello all, got a pretty serious situation with my old les paul copy. After replacing the original truss rod which was shot, with a new one and re-gluing the fretboard back on; which I tried to follow a good tutorial to the letter BTW, the low E, A, & D from the 10-14th fret have this fuzzy,dead, buzz sound when you open string hammer a note. If played just open or fretted the note sounds okay though, could those frets have somehow loosened up from the heating process when I removed the neck using the steam iron method and may lifted a little bit. Any info would be most welcome, Thanks

Duro makes "Super Glue Remover" pretty strong stuff so I've read but have never used before. Product description states it removes all types of Cyanoacrylate {did I spell that right} based "Super glues."

What about superglue remover, is it as hazardous as Acetone;ie., volatile to the plastic binding and a bad thing to let any soak into the rosewood ?

What's the best way to remove superglue from a rosewood fretboard. Any input would be great. Thanks

Truss removed finally, heating with soldering iron was the kicker. The old truss rod is a single-action with an aluminum channel on one side. Overall length including adjustment nut is just under 16". I'm looking at putting a "HotRod" in as a replacement. Hotrod makes a 14 1/2" model apparently sized for acoustics; I don't know if that length includes the 1" nut or not though. If someone knows please clue me in. The 18" inch HotRod is a little too long for my needs, as I really don't want to extend the route to squeexe it in. These Hotrods whether they're supposedly intended for guitar, banjo, acoustic or whatever are all the same right, application based on length specification. I havn't seen many or any short style truss rods for 25 year old Japanese LP copies so this a best guess kind of thing it seems. Also the route is 7/16" wide and 7/16" deep, definitely square, the Hot rods go 7/16" deep and a bit narrower. What's the best way to shim it in securely and cushion it from rattling/vibration. Thanks for any help on this

Yeah that rings true, heating it might make the metal more pliable and loose.

I have a Les Paul knockoff which I pulled the fretboard off of, ( followed the project guitar tutorial) and it went well. The Truss Rod is pretty oxidized and tight in the route, I'm looking to put a hotrod double action in place of the old. This is the first truss rod I'm attempting to R/R, what's the safetest way to get the old stubborn rod broke free from the route for removal. Thanks

Yeah it's early here in Alaska about 0730 need a little coffee to wake up, I meant relief at the 7th fret measured with feeler gage under a straight edge.

Hello, initially I had 10-52 strings on her, and the action was @.006", recently I switched to 9-46's, and that's when the backbow really manifested, yeah I realize lighter strings provide less relief so there it is. I guess alot of Pearl's are inherently backbowish by nature, maybe its the Alder necks who knows

Thanks for the info man, I guess that will be my first plan of attack to get it right.

Thanks for the understanding, I'm just in a place where there's only one luthier in town and he's hard to even reach by phone on a good day. I'm stationed outside Fairbanks, Alaska actually, not exactly a hotbed for guitar repair. I've done a fair amount of work on my own guitars, just not anything as critical as heating a neck for reshaping. Finding the post on this member with the same LPCC, who is familiar with a LP style guitar with an Alder neck wood, (near every Pearl is, they're were Japanese made in late 70's early 80's), was a stroke of incredible luck. Harmony central has few posts on Pearls with the same recurring backbow/loose truss rod issue. Hopefully the original poster of this thread or anyone with a clue will give some good info on this problem and how to rectify it. Thanks for any inputs

Is that supposed to mean something friend, sorry if I didn't follow the time honored rules of how, when and where to post, scuse me on that one sir, just looking for a little expierienced opinion on something very frustrating. Rules shouldn't override an honest request for advice, V/R

Hello, this is my first time posting on Project Guitar. I found a post about your truss-rod problem with the Pearl LPCC, well it's de ja vu cause my 1980 Pearl Les Paul CC has the exact same issue with a loose truss rod nut and a flat slightly back-bowed neck. The clearance at the 7th fret is barley .003-.004". It happened the exact same way everything was cool with the neck then I noticed some buzzing at the 2-5th frets and so on and so forth. My truss-rod is fully functioning not pushed in or anything so clue me into the neck heating/clamping work-around. How long do you heat the neck with the clothes iron, obviously you covered the neck with a thin cloth, sheet etc.., what kind of straight edge or rod did you use as a straightener to clamp to, how much did you shim the middle and did you totally loosen up the truss nut/rod before you heated up the neck. Sorry about the excessive verbage, I just have put a lot of work into this guitar and it's so close to being "There". I guess it's driving me nuts just seeing it sitting there jacked up like that. Thanks for any input