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Lwguitar

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Everything posted by Lwguitar

  1. Thats the technique I used. Not sure whats going on... Oh well.
  2. My saws kerf is about double the blade thickness, my line is straight on the edge of the board but the blade flexes in the middle and makes a curved cut. There is probably something off in my technique. The total thickness should end up being around 2” when the guitar is done so it’s really not too big of a deal. I was planing on having it 2 1/4” though.
  3. Pretty frustrating day, I spent two hours hand sanding then this happened. pretty much ruined the thin cutoff... The blade was wobbling like crazy so I also ended up getting a pretty big gash in the body as well which means it’s a Brit thinner than I was planning. I think it will still be fine but I may end up with a slightly thinner guitar than I was originally thinking. Ended up using my leveling jig to level it down to 1 3/8”. There is still a bit of a gouge but I’m gonna see how it looks once the guitar is a bit farther along.
  4. HAHA! Nope, pics are in our garage/workshop. I want to keep the wife happy! She is supportive and I want to keep it that way!
  5. No pictures but I sawed for about an hour and got 1/4 of the way through. Haha! The blade was starting to wonder off even with the deep kerf. I think the blade is flexing when I push it. Not sure what to do about that. I need one of these!
  6. I'm going to use magnets to hold the cover in place and if I was able to get the grain matched up just right it would look pretty awesome. I just hate to cut a whole in the middle of that big piece of figured Makore. Yah, ruining the big piece of Makore is where I'm struggling! I'm pretty sure it would look awesome, maybe just not as awesome as a grain matched cover. My thoughts exactly... but it would look so cool if I pulled it off! I'm pretty sure I will. A flamed walnut would look pretty cool!
  7. Looks great man! Inlay is one of the things I’m most scared of!
  8. I can’t make up my mind on wether I want to attempt to match up the control cover using the Makore or just make a high contrast cover using Wenge (same material as neck).
  9. I went by my dads house to borrow his table saw. Probably took out 2 hours of hand sawing! Also I now have a nice deep kerf to help guid the saw blade. Two more hours of hand sanding and I should have two pieces of wood! I wish I had used this method for book matching the top, it would have been much quicker and resulted in a thicker flatter top.
  10. I took that photo a while ago, it’s the same piece I used for the top. It’s amazing how different it looks in different light!
  11. That’s where I’m different! I would rather spend an hour pushing a saw or sandpaper back and forth than spend an hour setting up a machine to do the same thing.
  12. Family stuff has kept me busy so I haven’t been able to spend much time in the shop. i did get the top sanded down to 220 and ready to glue. I used double sided tape to hold the sandpaper to a stewmac beam. Next step is taking my 1 7/8” body down to 1 1/5”. I plan on using a table saw to put in a kerf and then hand sawing the rest. The bottom piece is the body blank. It is Makore with some figure.
  13. I dont know... I like the sharp corners on the headstock. They kind of tie into the body. I'm with bizman on copying the upper horn.
  14. Yah, I’m gonna be attempting a carve. It’s currently 11/16 to 3/4 at most parts, if I cut it down to get rid of the saw marks it will be about 5/8. I hope that will be thick enough. I’m wanting to leave 3/16 around the edge in place of binding.
  15. A got my router sled done and sanded the top a bit more. This is dry!
  16. Steel is good! This build is getting expensive though! For now I am going to have to stick to MDF.
  17. I’m actually planing on using a jig like this for leveling the top. @ADFinlayson How did you enjoy using it?
  18. I think I need to make some sort of jig so I can use a router on the neck lams. Probably the next shop day needs to be spent making router jigs.
  19. Here’s to hoping! I got that wood at Hunski hardwoods, they had a good selection of figured walnut. Not to expensive either.
  20. I sure hope it looks good sanded. After all the time it took to get that joint on walnut I’m not looking forward to all the sanding required to do the multi lam neck in wenge!
  21. So after about 2 hours of planing and sanding and measuring I finally got the top joint flat. I used the Stew Mac sanding beam to get the final dimension flat. I found that using new sandpaper and low pressure worked best.
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