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Everything posted by ADFinlayson

  1. On my first couple of builds, I used a fret slot template like that. I cut the slots freehand too, I used a mechanical pencil and the little plastic nib that the lead pokes out of was about the right size to fit perfectly in the notches, maybe try a different pencil.
  2. If I had a £1 for every mistake I made twice, I'd have at least enough for parts for a new build
  3. If some frets aren't in the right place then some frets will sound out of tune, if the slots are on the notches and they're perpendicular to your centre line, they will be spot on.
  4. This is my order of operations: 1. Route neck shape/profile 2. Get fretboard blank down to correct thickness 3. Stick fretboard blank to neck 4. Use neck as template and route fretboard flush with neck 5. Radius fretboard 6. Cut fretslots 7. Inlay work 8. Install frets 9. Carve neck I've done this stuff in various orders but I've done it this way for my last 5 or 6 builds and it's the order my most comfortable with because it mitigates risk of the fretboard not gluing on straight, cutting slots is way easier because there is far less wood to saw and I won't have to co
  5. I always tend to start at fret 1 and work my way up because as @curtisa says, inaccuracy becomes more noticeable as you go up the fretboard - as the gap between the frets becomes smaller so does the margin for error, and I find once I've done a couple, I get more into the swing of it. I don't really like miter boxes for exact work because it's more difficult to see the work. As in my video I shared with you before, I find I'm much more accurate if I make a little nick with the saw on each end of the line, then join them up freehand. You can definitely fill in bad slots with superglue and ro
  6. Is that oak you're using for the neck too? Looks lovely
  7. Depends how thick the board is currently vs when youv'e got it at final dimensions, the impact the radius has and the size of your frets. You will very likely have to come back and make the slots slightly deeper at the edges after radius anyway. I would suggest you get the board to final thickenss (5-6mm is a good depth), then slot the board about 0.5mm deeper than the height of your fret tangs. It's a bit scary first time round, but you will soon come to realise that it's easy just time consuming to hand cut slots. That's why I now do it freehand after the board is at final shape - I don't
  8. That makes a lot of sense, I'm still very new to this and haven't really figured out who my target audience is yet. Just a bit frustrating that I've got nearly 500 followers on my facebook page and not one of them wants to buy my guitar
  9. Well I've listed my first For sale guitar (instead of usual commissions) on reverb, ebay, my facebook page, handmate page guitar page on fb, and I still haven't sold it
  10. It's an expensive game! How many of the 36 did you sell?
  11. I think it's time you succumbed like the rest of us and build yourself a workshop mate. No guitar builder should be stuck at home without the ability to build guitars
  12. Thanks chaps, It's been UPS'd to it's new owner who is a PG member, so he might be on soon to tell you all how crap it is.
  13. Lower output = better tone and versatility IMO, they clean up a lot better when you roll off the volume and you cant retain more of the highs if you use a treble bleed. I put a super distortion and liquefier in a build for someone a year or so ago. Can't stand them, a lot like the jb pickups, they just sound like a compressed stereo sound with no middle to my ears. On the other hand I just put a pair of SD vintage blues in a build, not expensive pickups but sound great through my MT15 (All I've got access to during lockdown). I also really rate OX4 pickups, Lots of people on the internet
  14. Looking forward to seeing this one move on. Lovely wood combinations, what is that body? in the pics of the blanks i thought it was sapale, but the pics after shaping makes me think is african mahog?
  15. Davids CU24 finished, some pics of the finished Article. 50% of the garage is in boxes now so won't be touching the Tele build until I'm all setup in the new workshop - Not a bad thing because it's bloody cold in the garage at the moment!
  16. I did this a while back thanks to help from @mistermikev which is close to what you're looking for (apart from position 4). Using a fender 5-way super blade switch, I think Oak Grigsby do one too. Note position 4 - I was clearly trying to write neck and treble in the same word it's Bridge single + neck single pic below taken from the music man website. I was using PRS pickups which only have 3 wires - live, ground and coil split. So I am unable to have 2 options for inner and outer coil settings like the MM positions 2-4. I think you would need 4 conductor pickups to make that happen.
  17. I think she just can't be arsed to bring the bags in mate.
  18. Oi I'll have you know, my oil paint stained build won GTOM
  19. When I said white spirit, I meant mineral spirits in your language. We don't have that readily available here so I get white spirit from my local Home depo type store
  20. You can thin oil paints with white spirit. I've use oil paints to stain guitars before and I wouldn't recommend it to be honest, takes forever to dry and a lot of it will come off if you do any kind of wipe on finishing - it will react with true oil, crimson finishing oil, wipe on poly (those are the 3 I've tried anyway) etc. Angelus leather dyes are very good if you want vibrant colours.
  21. Looks like pine to me. I would expect it to be heavy as a double neck, there's a lot of wood there.
  22. RIP Alexi Laiho, Finnish guitarist and frontman of Children of Bodom, passed away at 41 https://www.loudersound.com/news/children-of-bodom-frontman-alexi-laiho-dies?fbclid=IwAR3XQXE16hKYoSDLQW_CcbKKsLeJiCg6yJ6HYwiwQYuimxzjQ-lI8pVsG7Y
  23. I saw that but that is referencing the plain shaft pot, is a knurled 6.3mm knob going to fit on a plain shaft knob properly?
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