kidmag

Great, thanks Unk, it all makes sense to me now.

O.k. Unk I've been trying to think through this and I just don't get it. If I make the suggested switches (black for green, red for white), then in coil cut mode, the green will be the only ungrounded wire, which is the screw coil. But I want the screw coil cut, and have the slug coil the active coil. So are you sure the above noted changes are correct? Trying to think through this again, and bare with me because I'm going soley on information researched on-line, I would think I need to swtich the black with the white and the green with the red. Then in coil cut mode the white would be the only ungrounded wire, which is the slug coil. What do you think?

Thanks for the response Unk. So based on your response and all the other info I've been trying to gather, this what I think needs to be done. Switch the Green and the black wire positions. Leave the bare wire grounded Switch the red and the white wire positions. Is that correct?

This is my first wiring job on the very first guitar I ever assembled, so please deliver advice in lamen terms please - thank you. I was estatic that for the most part all wiring works fine on my first try, the only problem is the middle position is very weak, so I'm assuming my bridge and neck pups are out of phase with each other? The bridge pup is a humbucker (4 coil, same color codes as Seymour Duncan), and the neck a P90 (vintage style wiring). Pickup selection is controllable by a 3 way switch. For the HB only there is also an on/on/on mini for parallel/ series/cut. So if the pups are out of phase when both are on, how would I correct? It was suggested that I just switch the position where the green/bare wires and Black wire from the HB pup connect to the mini switch (this was suggested to me by someone, who said, "they were not sure, but that it should work").. I've wired the mini toggle from the HB exactly like this diagram from SD's website: http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/schem...t_parallel.html This other diagram seems to support the thought that I can just switch the green/bare wire position with the black wire to reverse the polarity: http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/schem...ar_w_phase.html So do you think that would work?? In split mode, would it still cut the coil closest to the bridge? (my hb is not balanced and want to make sure the northern coil is the active one in split mode). THanks again.

Hi - I'm looking for the routing templates to make a toggle cavity similiar to the ones on most gibson (Les pauls for example). Anyone know where I can buy one? Thanks

Ok. more details. 1. It played poorly, the intonation was weird. 2. had probably 11 gauge strings on it. They were old, and the guitar sounded dead, the pups were way too high, and the neck had too much relief. I put 10's on it - and found I only had to make a 1/4 turn of the truss rod to set the relief to minimal. 3. after my adjustments, the neck plays great, and is straight. no buzzing anywhere - just the intonation problem. 3. It's ringing sharp. the nut is not too high - if you depress the 2nd fret, there is almost zero clearance over the 1st fret with all strings.

Action is pretty low (very low by 1st fret, and probably 3/16 of inch by the 12th fret). The nut seems to be adjusted (grooves cut) very well. The notes are sharp. ahh this sucks, the guitar is just beautiful.

Hi - I bought a fairly expensive vintage Es335 (an early 70's) off ebay. Cosmetically the thing is in prestine shape (I was estatic when it first arrived). I restrung it, adjusted the neck, set the intonation (so the 12th fret matched open notes). But it still sounded a little weird when playing open cords. I kept checking the tuning, etc. and couldn't figure out why it didn't sound good. Well I finally got the tuner back out, and started checking each fret of each string.. AHHHHH!!! almost every string in the first fret was out by 5-6 Mhz. Going up the board, it got progressively better, until about the 5th-6th fret when the intonation settled into being w/in 1 mhz of the actual desired note. uhh, I'm not going play this thing, unless I can get this fixed, - there is no sweet ring... it sounds like a bad epiphone for over $2K!!! Is there any chance to fix this?? Would a refret do it?? (by the way the frets seem to have plenty of life left).. THanks

Thanks. hopefully all goes well. Anyone else have any helpful hints before I start?? Going to get supplies today..

O.k. So I have a 2003 ES 335 dot reissue that I bought on ebay recently. The guitar appeared to have never been played, only displayed, in a very very dry climate. The body finish is amazing - no complaints - no problems. The neck however was completely dried out, almost greyish, and the relief was nearly 1/4 inch. It was really sad, and i was instantly worried I just threw a bunch of money away. So I used my acoustic guitar humidifier, treated the fretboard w/Bore Oil (called Fret Doctor) and slowly adjusted the trust rod over 5 or 6 days back to straight. The neck looks great now, it's straight, the rosewood board is a nice dark healthy color (pours look healthy), and the action/relief is very serviceable. The problem is that either Gibson did a very sloppy finishing job (I can see the file marks in the fretboard), or the unfortunate neglect by the prior owner made the fretboard a little rough in places. It's not the worst thing in the world by any mean, but it's not great., and man it could be a lot better. I am also spoiled by a Don Grosh (DG) guitar I own, which has the most fluid comfortable neck/fretboard in the world. It is a thing of beauty. I love the 335, and want that kind of finish to the fretboard that the DG has. The DG fretboard is very slightly rounded over the edges, and very very very very slightly scalloped. You wouldn't even call it a scalloped neck, not at all, but that's kinda what it is. Wery very slight, and it is the best feeling thing in the world. So I have a Squirer Jagmaster that has a very clean, but rigidly shaped fretboard. I want to practice transforming that thing into something like the DG neck finish, and if successful apply the technique to the 335. So anyway, after reading the "How to Scallop a Neck" on the tutorials page, I'm going to go for it on the Squire. I have no special tools and hope to do this by hand with only masking tape, razor blade, toothbrush, 220, 320, 600, and 1200 grit sandpaper, and lemon oil (or I could use the bore oil). And this to be done completely by hand.. Am I fooling myself?? Am I going to screw this guitar up??? wihout a buffing machine, will I really be able to get back to a nice polished finish?? Thoughts, prayers, etc. Thanks!

Thanks for the reponses. Wow, I guess it is very slight. Now the task of attempting to measure such things!

Hi sorry, I stumbled on this great site while trying to get information on setting up my ES-335. Anyway I appreciate the set-up information immensly, but the site says the two following things that I'm not so sure about. In setting/measuring nut height and neck bow, it recommends that string height should approx. be .005" above the first fret (for nut) and above the 7th fret for neck bow (when measuring using the technique described here: http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/trussadjust.htm) My question is that .005" would be 1/200th of an inch - is that right?. I'm thinking they meant .05", or 1/20th of an inch? Anyone know for sure?? are we really talking about 1/200th of an inch. That would imply that correct relief on a solid body electric is between 1/200th of an inch and 3/200th of an inch (which is essentially zero relief I would think)? Not trying to be an arse, just really trying to figure out what is considered "correct" Thanks - and by the way I am learning lots reading through this site. Cheers kidmag