Urumiko

Today I learned the word..chatoyance lol

Hi. I've already posted this vid for discussion elsewhere as I have a lot of questions on inlays. But for those following the thread. The latest vid is up.

Hey all, I'd really appreciate some help in figuring out how to implement my inlay design. Materials, techniques, running order etc. It's Pretty long winded so i've posed the questions in video form: https://youtu.be/dytxlJ0-q94 The thumbnail shows the proposed design.

Thanks all. Yes I think perhaps waxing the edge of the fretboard then clamping sheets of polypropelene allong the sides would be good. i think the nut end would be tricky but i guess i could mock something up. if i can get a vaccum going i will. if im going that route i guess i will prob end up finishing the whole of the guitar in epoxy. which given i dont have a spray booth yet might be a good idea. Does anyone know if epoxy makes for a sticky neck? @ADFinlayson yeah mate to be honest ill prob avoid blades completely and angle grind the extremeties, then either hand sand or bobbin sand the rest of the way. if it starts taring out uncontrolably i may just make a feature of it and try and get a rough 3d thing going below the epoxy. I was looking at this https://www.glasscastresin.com/glasscast-50-epoxy-casting-resin?gclid=CjwKCAiA6vXwBRBKEiwAYE7iSw4-A8FdsSKch-osF45CYE0BT0JybZLuXBVc1j9GC7UjZp6ocF8e8hoCPJkQAvD_BwE possibly with some automotive black pigment.

THank you both.. Damn.. I wish you could remember that vid title @norm barrows Do you remember what viscosity he went for? Thanks as always @Bizman62. You know me trying to source a vac bag is probably a bit more than id go for. I havent actually been keeping up on youtube so much lateley but i did see bits of the river table build. He kept recommending some brand of resin, I guess my big question there would be what can I use to box it in that it will not stick to

so anyone who's been following my build will know I'm making a palmwood neck. For anyone who doesnt know it's ammost impossibe to carve without this kind of thing happening: The example above i filled with dust ad glue and it really doesnt look good. I will be carving using sanding only to avoid this as much as possible but i still expect to have some tearout perticularly on the edges. I was considering that rather than filling and spoiling the look of the wood, I'd preffer to use some kind of ultra clear high build resin and sand that back to acheive a smooth finish with the "3D" imperfactions underneath. I could potentially add a smokey black pigment. Does anyone know if/how i could go about this/what to use? Is there something i could brush on in thick coats and build up, or would i be better off trying to box in the back of the neck and pour resin, then carve this back? The thought of trying to box in an already carved neck is not appealng.

i'd like to see the Madeline and pennant fleshed out

I checked, and it thinks i did a lot of cycling... lol

Do you ever feel like it's a constant battle to get stuff Square

It was because I switched my camera from recording at 60 fps to 25 fps. Less frames to process means less heat. I'd been watching USA based electronics videos so long id convinced myself electricity in the UK runs at 60hz, and id been running my camera at 60fps to avoid strobing from the strip lighting. However im an idiot and it runs at 50hz. WHich is why i was still having issues with strobing too. I'm now running at 25fps which divides in to 50 ok. so no issues

I started carving my first neck pocket. I'm curious, does anyone just use a forstner bit and chisels to do theirs? I found refining the pocket by hand quite theraputic.

Its a common issue on most of the Sony stills cameras. If you try and run them at the absolute maximum quality they overheat after a while. They are not really designed to be used as video cameras for extended periods. 1080p at 60fps is the absolute maximum that camera can handle. It never used to do it but I used to film at a lower frame rate. I'm switching back to a lower frame rate going forward so it shouldn't be an issue.

Haha great minds really do think alike @Bizman62 @ADFinlayson suggested the board to me while i was contemplating it. I though of that exact thing (adding the handle) and suggested it back to him as he was doing it in one of his.. You are right. I was aware at the time but there wasn't really a gap to speak of so i figured it wasn't necessary. I think i said in the video (maybe not) that i ran out of clamps. I was struggling in other areas so used the clamp there... I could have re arranged them a bit but there was no gap so i figured id be ok. Thanks for your compliments about the sound. I think i will have the video fixed for next time. Ive been a damn fool. Been watching American vids on electronics that long i completely forgot uk AC runs at 50hz not 60.

Latest epp is up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHTjAdVxqZ

It was less the paint i was worried about and more the holes n saw marks.. lots of "oops i appear to be sawing through my bench"

HI all, So im currently kitting out a new workspace (yay). So far I built an oversize side bench for doing my electronics/setups etc on. Next i want to turn my attention to this old work bench top i was given. I'd like to make use of it as my main bench for carving etc. As you can see its really pitted and battle scarred. I was wondering if/how I should spruce it up. It doesn't seem to contain any nails or anything like that but it's far from a smooth surface. I was considering resurfacing it somehow. Perhaps screwing on some MDF, or drowning it in some kind of filler, or making a routing jig to skim it with. Ideas?

Personally I find the blackstar HT5r the most versatile. Its a good clean amp, with handy dandy features like a usable line out/in. Theres a lot to be said for having a pedalboard solution like the two notes le clean, and just plugging in to the desk in open mic type situations.

Hey all, Not got round to ash's latest vid yet as im playing catchup on my watch list. If it helps at all, I used to normalise the vocals which took them down to a pretty low volume. I was then gain staging them with compressor plugins .. Waves L2 etc.. I'd then have a limiter on the master track set at 3db short of maximum. Now i find I have the internal limiting set on my Zoom recorder, and i run it near max gain, so that tends to compress the vocals to about where they need to be anyway without needing further processing, I do apply the "podcast voice" eq still but i'm considering stopping that as it can sound too boomey on some playback devices. I think the key still is though that i use one of the waves maximiser plugins to limit near max vol, push the vocals till its lightly kissing them. Then set the music volume by ear.

Latest video is up. Warning.... contains scenes of shocking use of a pillar drill... LOL. I def think i'll use the method @Bizman62 suggested or similar for thicknessing the top next time as its proving tricky. I think im getting to the point where im ready to accept imperfaction and move on though

I really look forward to seeing this one finished... I sense a GOTM inbound.

love this.... If prince were a viking....

Also a handy tip thank you. MS Paint lol.

Thank You @Bizman62 I must Admit I'm finding the low viewer numbers a little disheartening for all the effort it takes to edit these videos, but your comments made me smile. It's nice to know I made someone laugh so thank you. I shall try and keep the humour going. Especially for the longer videos. Just a random thought, If you like that kind of humour and you like old car restoration, you may enjoy the channel "Bad obsession Motorsport" on Youtube. As for you Carving Idea.... That's genius, I didn't think of that! By tattooed bloke do you mean @ADFinlayson ? Ash already suggested I should thin down the edge of the holes as much as possible given my slip-up. This cements further in my mind how I should approach it