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JouniK

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JouniK last won the day on December 30 2019

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About JouniK

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  • Birthday 01/01/1984

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    Uusimaa, Finland

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  1. Name: Aquilae 50 Here are the specs: Shape: Headless 6-string. Heavily influenced by ergonomic design by Ola Strandberg (Boden model) Body woods: Poplar Burl -top (15mm, bookmatched 2 piece) + European Alder (2 piece) Scale: 25,5inch, 22 frets Neck: Bolt-On Flaxwood Hybrid with jumbo nickel frets (pre-manufactured without filled fretboard dots) (Wood fiber composite -material) Fretboard dot inlay color: Black, Side dots: Orange (luminous) Hipshot 6 String Guitar Headless Fixed -bridge (tuning machines) + traditional headpiece Pickups: Fishman Flue
  2. I planned on doing the logo to the control cavity cover but...yeah what can I say...not very good planning on doing a waterslide to a black background. Well I probably leave this as is and in some point in time do a another cavity cover or do something with veneers that have in storage.
  3. Next up is designing the "logo" to go on top of the control cavity cover. Gonna be using SunnyScopa film-free waterslide paper.
  4. No it is luxury item called Ikea Ivrig. Some whisky would not have been so bad idea while sewing...
  5. Easter gave me time to do some sewing, glueing and drilling. Attaching the strap to the tip of the horn was successfull without cracks and splits. Thanks @Bizman62 and @mistermikev for advises. Drilled a looser pilot hole for the screw, first I did a dry install and used clamps to support the horn from the sides. Then soaked the screw hole with thin ca glue as much as I could. Let that dry over night and then fastened the screw and strap buckle. Used the longer and bigger screw that came with the DiMarzio strap. Success! No extra weight needed to correct the balance. No more neck dive.
  6. Tested by attaching the strap at the tip of the horn with duct tape actually got this balanced just right. But the horn is quite pointy and narrow. I am afraid that it will crack/break at some point. Thinking of drilling a bit larger hole than needed and fill that with thin epoxy hoping that the epoxy will soak in and strenghten the wood fibers beneath. Then also doing a looser pilot hole for the screw.
  7. Somehow with years of practice and prototyping. I never even thought about neck dive and strap buttons placement during design since I thought that removing tuners and most of the head will remove this problem. Their bodies are hollowed (mine was solid alder and poplar burl) and the forward side strap buttons I think always at the tip of the horn. I guess their necks are lighter than mine. Probably also lighter side wood because they strenghten their necks with carbon fiber. Bodens have also zero fret and no individual nut.
  8. I experimented with some duct tape and figured that I would need approximately 550-500g more weight if placed it at the end of the strap. Then the neck would sit straight or a bit upwards. But first I will shorten the strap and sow some suede at the back to prevent sliding and then evaluate the situation again. Interesting ideas. Do you think that lowering the strap position along the red strip would help? I do not have tools for doing any metal work but piece of veneer plywood could work and attach it with screws. Have to think how that will look. Probably have to test more with
  9. Total weight is 2.64kg. I am getting a bit of neck dive although no traditional headstock. Probably the flaxwood neck with hipshot headpiece is so heavy comparing to the body...or the strap screws are not at the optimal position. I did not want to sacrifice breaking the upper horn if I placed the strap screws at the tip of the horn so I placed it a little bit lower. I have to take a look at some counterweights to the control cavity or at the other end of the strap. Any suggestions? Apparently I also have to modify the dimarzio straps because apparently they are too long at the shortest se
  10. I added the turpetine after the wax mix was liquid and off the stove. Lid on to cool down. It did have a smell to it. I have not smelled turpentines so much to compare but the Crimson Penetrating Finishing Oil did have very strong odor comparing to this. I guess they use normal normal mineral spirits/white spirit to thin the oil.
  11. Finally got sound out of this thing after little bit of struggle and troubleshooting with electronics...yeah it is a mess down there. Difference with normal pickups Fishman Fluences have 3 wires / pickup more to control the different voices and coil splits. To my surprise I got the wiring diagram correct the first time which I am pleased. Thanks @mistermikev for helping discussion on this. This was also the first time for me to execute and plan a whole wiring scheme. The first plug-in was not successful. No sound what so ever. After troubleshooting with multimeter the reason was poorly cl
  12. Batch of DIY wax. First try was mix of beeswax, Carnauba and MCT oil (fractionated coconut oil). 1:5 ratio of wax and oil. Carnaba and beeswax ratio was 50-50. This mix left the varnished finish so oily so ended up discarding this. Probably good for unfinished wood or shoe polish. Found a traditional hard wax recipe. 1:2:3 ratio (carnauba,beeswax,low odor turpetine/mineral spirit). Had to heat the wax jar with a hair dryer to soften the wax and wipe it on with a rag and turpentine. Wax added very moderate rate of shine on the satiny varnish finish a had. But probab
  13. I also bought a set to be used as nut files after seeing a youtube video about alternative ways do nut slots.
  14. Congrats. That is some awesome work. Looks stunning.
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