Thanks for the reply. I've already set the nut height as well as make sure the neck is straight and done the fretwork. I don't think any of that is the problem. On top of that, after the lacquer was sprayed on, I made sure the neck pocket was cleaned out so I'm good there as well. The neck pocket is 5/8 inch deep and the neck itself from the hill to the top of the fretboard as one inch. To me it looks like it has plenty of clearance from the top of the body to the overhang of the fretboard. It looks comparable to other strat guitars I have. With the saddles all the way down and the bridge all the way down, I would probably have to put a flat shim that is around two tenths of an inch thick to make the strings set where they should but that would still be with the bridge and saddles all the way down. I really think I need to put an angle on it but that's just what I'm thinking. I had a piece of pine and was able to cut hey 1.5 degree angle shim. I trimmed that up nicely and checked it in the guitar. I didn't screw anything together but it looks like that might be a little too much. Maybe something at 1 degree or 1.25 degree would be best. I can make sure the holes on the body are slightly bigger than the screws and also make sure the holes in the shim give proper clearance for the screws as well. Is there any reason not to use pine for a shim? If not, I feel like I can pretty accurately cut some. Not sure though where it is a softer wood. I can also post some pictures if that would help out at all. For what it's worth, the bridge is a two-post Gotoh TS510T bridge that I plan on floating. It doesn't set flush against the body like a traditional strat unless you recess the ferals for the post. I drilled them so they sit flush with the body. Not sure I can get them back out now but I don't think it will be a problem.