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Everything posted by JayT

  1. Welp, back-to-back (self made) disasters... Disaster #1 - for some reason I accidentally sprayed primer on top of the semi-gloss on the black one...what was going to be final coat. So I figured "hey, I'll just apply more semi-gloss top then finish!" well, that didn't work at all --- so I stripped it down to wood (no pic) am have primed again. I can live with this mistake. Then onto the white one's neck, just finishing final buffing, I thought looking pretty good... ...then... Disaster #2: I'm calling this one "The Infamous Neck Buffing Launch of 2020" .... can you guess what happened? I bet you can... Once I retrieved said neck from across the room I was bummed that I scratched the pain... but kinda relieved that it wasn't wors... ---- oh, holy hell... So now I'll try to glue it back... *sign* Both are my carelessness so I can't blame anyone/anything else. It is what it is, live & learn...whatever. And to top it off both of lumberyards I buy wood at are closed, and even if they weren't I 'd get a ticket fro driving there due to lock down orders here. Things could be worse I'm sure so not sweating the small sh!t
  2. I just noticed the tentacles loop on the 3|5|7|9 (and so on) frets ... nice touch! You did already mention it, but still -- I'm a bit slow
  3. oh man, this is beautiful. I am taking notes. Love the white, how was the logo done? By hand or stenciled, silk screen?
  4. #9 = kinda Dead Kennedys (not a bad thing!) ... if you're doing a homage this is great, -- otherwise #5 would get my vote for clarity alone, not that logos need to be 100% identifiable as something, but you for sure don't want it to be identified as some letters other than "D.I.G" Numbers 1,2,3,4 & 11 have a high-tech/software feel IMO. Numbers 6,7 & 8 remind me of designer clothes logos...but still #8 is very interesting #10 would be difficult to reproduce in 2-color, worth thinking about
  5. I don't see this fingreboard detail on your 2nd drawing, are you losing that? Very cool detail I thought.
  6. After staring at it for 10 minutes I finally figured it out. The little guitar carved into it really has those pegs highly detailed, that tipped me off . I only ever used that part on my peg winder Indeed there was, but I already rounded off the other side, it was pretty loose in the slot anyway. The next try turned out much better...all done but the grooves -- then I can finally assemble this puppy! Well, assuming I can get the electronics done. I accidentally got shipped a Strat style pre-wired kit so I disassembled that (which gave me the chance to learn about desoldering...got some wick and a pump, pump was useless for me) and will try to salvage needed parts onto a 3-way switch. Getting ahead of myself here...back to the nut! Thanks for that detail, I heard/read that they should only be that deep, but didn't know the reason. Half the diameter of high e is going to be difficult with these crappy files: I wasn't going to spend $300 on the proper ones! Any tips here appreciated,
  7. Dammit ... half way finished and I realized I reversed the string slots...low E goes on the other side. ahhhh!! could’ve been more snug anyway. Good thing I got 7 blanks
  8. Ok started (over again) on shaping the first nut...wish me luck oh, what is this little fork thing that came with the nut files? Any help?
  9. So as I find myself working from home (gives me an extra 2 hours a day building time without my commute --- a silver lining!) and waiting for first build to dry/cure I've decided on my next build design. I want to baby-step into something a bit less basic... It is basically a double cut version of my first design/build, with a lot more carvings/contours (the most enjoyable steps!), rear control cavities, and an angled head. Thinking 10° scarf joint rather than 1 piece carve (I'm open to expert advice here! hint-hint) and same 25.5 scale. Also I plan to use higher-end materials and hardware all around (I went super cheap-o on my first g0). Push knobs - no switch, locking tuners. Possibly a set neck rather than bolt on...not decided yet if that's pushing my skills (probably so). I hear stainless steel frets are difficult to work and hard on tools so I'm not going there, even though I'd like too. maybe next build. I've refined the head shape, more curves...here's old (left) vs new (right) ... my first attempt at the truss rod access was a bit of a mess...the drill bit dug into the head face pretty far up so I'm going to try for a real clean hole (that's what she said) maybe it'll be easier with angled head? Also I'm not doing a nut slot (?) in the fret board...I had/am having a hell of a problem getting my current builds have a flat shelf and 90° walls for the nut to sit. I'm tempted to file down to the neck surface at this point...thankfully I back-burnered that as the finish is drying so I have time to contemplate what to do...but I digress...(will take any/all advice!) I'm going to stain the high, flat parts of the body and leave the carved parts natural. Something like: For wood, I'm going to have a maple neck (since I already have material) not settled on fingerboard, something dark or dyed dark. Body probably maple with some nice top/bottom ... could I say pancaked? I like the look of Japanese/Tamo Ash but have no idea if I can get it...hopefully it'll end up looking something like: With the top horn being a bit narrow and upwards pointing I'm thinking the strap button will have to go on the back (location #3 or #4 I guess) ...which I'm not crazy about but see no other viable option. Unless I really go off the rails and try something like Billy Sheehan does on his baritone 12-string guitar... I want the carve to tapper down really thin on the tail and arm contour, my buddy has an Ibanez that tappers front and back to about 1/4 edge...I liked the feel of that. Thoughts? Advice? Thanks in advance!
  10. could he just move the bridge?
  11. Wait, what? I can't play this for six months? ... and if I decide to do that, should I wax after the curring? Next time I'm going to nitro, live & learn I guess
  12. painting/finishing advice needed. With the semi-gloss paint I'm doing a coat a day (on 3rd) and in between coats I'm sanding back the orange peel & dust bumps. As a test (wondering if I'll ever get a smooth surface) I wet sanded an area up to 3000 grit and love that result. But is that the way to go if I want a protective finish? Like poly? Can I poly on such a smooth surface, will it adhere? If so, how far should I wetsand? I was planning on up to 5000 grit but not polishing/buffing the semi-gloss paint but rather buff the poly finish. Or will the Rustoleum semi gloss be hard enough once polished and curred?
  13. I can only see the first half, 2nd half is just blank .... Using mac/chrome But from what I can see great job!
  14. Yes, regular wood glue works great. There’s not like “guitar glue” .... I use TiteBond
  15. The whole build is documented here...still ongoing but I’ve just began painting so wrapping up my first build(s) soon
  16. I’m not sure what you’d call this place, but it’s right down the street from my house https://www.exoticlumber.com
  17. Poplar was my choice for first build, I paid $28 USD and got enough for 2 guitars so only $14...but I’m painting mine so if you want something prettier worth showing grain maybe not for yours. Happy building!
  18. First coat of paint on. I ended up using Rustoleum semi gloss and so far looks ok. Black and Ivory Bisque (which is pretty close to vintage white) I plan to do min 3 coats, wet sanding in between. Then probably use Minwax rattlecan polycrylic....thoughts? No going back on the color but I’ve not bought poly yet. I have Truoil for the necks, planning on doing entire necks even painted headstock with trueoil
  19. Both are very cool, but like Bizman the Pennant guitar gets my vote. Funny, unlike Bizman, I prefer custom body styles
  20. Stellar work! ... that what my kids call "a dad joke" but I proudly own it Wish I owned this guitar too
  21. Awesome work, is that scratch plate shape your design? Pick guards that don't closely follow the body shape really add extra visual interest IMO.
  22. Ha, my family does say I live down here but my "shop" is actually the laundry room in our basement. I've stored the old couch here (translation: I'm too lazy to take it to dump) that comes in handy as a 2nd soft, anti-dent surface for in-progress projects. Plus it has sentimental value as my daughter was practically birthed on it 14 years ago...I leave the details of that delightful experience to your imagination (you're welcome)
  23. Yep, I've got a bit of sanding ahead of me yet. I hope not, it seems like the "simple things" are taking me the longest. I've omitted my 3 attempts at carving/sanding a well fitting nut. Also, nobody gave me a heads up on how much bone stinks when sanding! One of the many failed neck carves...and on good wood that one. At least it found a purpose. I can't take credit for the tube-in-clamp idea, I saw it in a few YT videos...but it is way helpful to be able to spin/turn it while spraying. Especially since I was spraying towards an exhaust fan pointing to an open door (not visible as I'm standing in that spot for the pics)
  24. First coat of primer...really shows the imperfections & grain that I guess I didn’t fill quite enough. Going to fill again & sand back a bit before next primer coat not too terrible I can work with these
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