Jump to content

JayT

Established Member
  • Posts

    249
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

Everything posted by JayT

  1. Getting her done, and beautifully at that. Scrolling through your pictures I can't help but notice you're getting way better results than I with mostly the same exact tools...down to the brand name. For sure I'm going to use that improvised router table rather than my death-trap contraption I came up with. Also, nice 515o stool!
  2. Oh yeah, I'm stealing this idea...I have an extra drill press just sitting the box that I can dedicate to buffing. The company shipped me two by mistake and its been since December so I'm assuming they're not coming after me or the press if they haven't yet
  3. I was admiring some of Diego Vila's amazing work and am stumped at how these lines on the finger board were achieved. Anyone have any ideas? Is it binding? Not the inlay fret markers, the little thin lines I mean.
  4. Incredible results! Loving the design and, well pretty much everything going on. If you scratch this up when plugging in or if it slides off that dresser its propped up on I'll never for give you Question, what type of glue did you use? I'm going to steal your method, so I want to steal it properly. I'm assuming this'll work on the pick guard as well
  5. I was going to sat same thing! You don't see that often...well, I don't anyway. Incredibly nice all around
  6. finally, something I can understand! Literally I said "oohhhh...." out load after reading this. yep, happened on this build, twice on each body. I'll keep all responses in mind on the next build for sure! In the meantime, today I started to assemble the white one... ...then decided to stop an re-watch all the 'how to soder' and 'how to wire a guitar' videos before jumping in to the electronics. Also I want to do the cavity shielding first. Question, is there any reason I can use aluminum tape rather than copper? Cheaper, and I saw a video of using glued down cooking aluminum foil...
  7. This was my plan, but even with what I consider finer grit (I used 600/800/1000/1200/1500/2000/2500/3000/5000/7000) the paper would get build-up of little hard balls and those would scratch the finish. I was cleaning off the paper so much I was getting nowhere fast. So I used water with a tiny bit of soap, then around 2500 grit used glass cleaner. I'm curious what grit you use.
  8. So I've got a decent finish on these bodies finally...maybe not the high gloss look I wanted, but I think with the rattle-can semi-gloss spray paint I used and my newbie skills this is as good as it gets. In other words - I'm not starting over again I think with more practice I'd get better results --- painting, wet sanding, rubbing compound, polishing, waxing --- it all was a bit much first time out doing two at once, and both opposite ends of the color spectrum I had to clean up alot and re-using sandpaper & polishing pads was usually a bad idea I found out (the hard way) There are some small & micro scratches still but I'll be call this a 'slightly relic'd' finish, so don't mention them...and maybe one day I'll try to improve the finish. Probably not. Now I just have to wrap-up the head stock paint finishing and assemble!
  9. So nice! Looks like something Ron Swanson would approve of and/or make. https://media.vlipsy.com/vlips/kn0zTIaA/480p.mp4
  10. Easy solution, I have plenty of room. Ship them to me
  11. story of my life...except I have no buffing wheels. For me saying/thinking that I'm "getting close" always jinxes me back to rinse-and-repeat mode -- or should I say strip-and-repaint mode. Looking good!
  12. great start looks so good - love the improvisation/experimentation of methods and tools...for sure a page out of my book
  13. Great job! I think the end results are better than to be just "ok with"
  14. Welp, a few updates after a long absence...glad to be back here after a few frustrating weeks. the cracked head repair went well I think and both neck backs are finished with TruOil just have to wet sand and polish The bodies have been a challenge painting and getting results I was happy with. Many coats, many wet sanding sessions, many scratches and exposed wood at edges! i could deal with that but the biggest problem was when I felt it was getting close all the holes would swell with water...like under the paint. I coated the holes with TruOil but that didn’t help. It was like the water was getting between the wood and the paint! Ended up taking both down to wood and repainted. Black was first coat of semi-gloss, White is now primed. going to SLOW DOWN and give more drying time. Going to only dry sand with more/higher grit paper...or at least try that route. if I ever paint a guitar again I’m either using nitro or staining...spray painting is just too problematic for me
  15. This build is looking great! Impressive work...that nut jig looks like something I need! As far as color (or colour) that first green would get my vote.
  16. I do appreciate the positive spin on: "Jeez, you've really screwed up in every conceivable way!" Yep, this occurred to me...after the fact. 100% AGREE! Good news is that the crack re-glue seems pretty solid and is all but invisible from the back. Once I re-paint/re-finish I'm thinking only I'll be able to spot it...and I know that it will bother me every time ai pick it up.
  17. Welp, back-to-back (self made) disasters... Disaster #1 - for some reason I accidentally sprayed primer on top of the semi-gloss on the black one...what was going to be final coat. So I figured "hey, I'll just apply more semi-gloss top then finish!" well, that didn't work at all --- so I stripped it down to wood (no pic) am have primed again. I can live with this mistake. Then onto the white one's neck, just finishing final buffing, I thought looking pretty good... ...then... Disaster #2: I'm calling this one "The Infamous Neck Buffing Launch of 2020" .... can you guess what happened? I bet you can... Once I retrieved said neck from across the room I was bummed that I scratched the pain... but kinda relieved that it wasn't wors... ---- oh, holy hell... So now I'll try to glue it back... *sign* Both are my carelessness so I can't blame anyone/anything else. It is what it is, live & learn...whatever. And to top it off both of lumberyards I buy wood at are closed, and even if they weren't I 'd get a ticket fro driving there due to lock down orders here. Things could be worse I'm sure so not sweating the small sh!t
  18. I just noticed the tentacles loop on the 3|5|7|9 (and so on) frets ... nice touch! You did already mention it, but still -- I'm a bit slow
  19. oh man, this is beautiful. I am taking notes. Love the white, how was the logo done? By hand or stenciled, silk screen?
  20. #9 = kinda Dead Kennedys (not a bad thing!) ... if you're doing a homage this is great, -- otherwise #5 would get my vote for clarity alone, not that logos need to be 100% identifiable as something, but you for sure don't want it to be identified as some letters other than "D.I.G" Numbers 1,2,3,4 & 11 have a high-tech/software feel IMO. Numbers 6,7 & 8 remind me of designer clothes logos...but still #8 is very interesting #10 would be difficult to reproduce in 2-color, worth thinking about
  21. I don't see this fingreboard detail on your 2nd drawing, are you losing that? Very cool detail I thought.
  22. After staring at it for 10 minutes I finally figured it out. The little guitar carved into it really has those pegs highly detailed, that tipped me off . I only ever used that part on my peg winder Indeed there was, but I already rounded off the other side, it was pretty loose in the slot anyway. The next try turned out much better...all done but the grooves -- then I can finally assemble this puppy! Well, assuming I can get the electronics done. I accidentally got shipped a Strat style pre-wired kit so I disassembled that (which gave me the chance to learn about desoldering...got some wick and a pump, pump was useless for me) and will try to salvage needed parts onto a 3-way switch. Getting ahead of myself here...back to the nut! Thanks for that detail, I heard/read that they should only be that deep, but didn't know the reason. Half the diameter of high e is going to be difficult with these crappy files: I wasn't going to spend $300 on the proper ones! Any tips here appreciated,
  23. Dammit ... half way finished and I realized I reversed the string slots...low E goes on the other side. ahhhh!! could’ve been more snug anyway. Good thing I got 7 blanks
  24. Ok started (over again) on shaping the first nut...wish me luck oh, what is this little fork thing that came with the nut files? Any help?
×
×
  • Create New...