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JayT

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Everything posted by JayT

  1. So as I find myself working from home (gives me an extra 2 hours a day building time without my commute --- a silver lining!) and waiting for first build to dry/cure I've decided on my next build design. I want to baby-step into something a bit less basic... It is basically a double cut version of my first design/build, with a lot more carvings/contours (the most enjoyable steps!), rear control cavities, and an angled head. Thinking 10° scarf joint rather than 1 piece carve (I'm open to expert advice here! hint-hint) and same 25.5 scale. Also I plan to use higher-end materials and hardware all around (I went super cheap-o on my first g0). Push knobs - no switch, locking tuners. Possibly a set neck rather than bolt on...not decided yet if that's pushing my skills (probably so). I hear stainless steel frets are difficult to work and hard on tools so I'm not going there, even though I'd like too. maybe next build. I've refined the head shape, more curves...here's old (left) vs new (right) ... my first attempt at the truss rod access was a bit of a mess...the drill bit dug into the head face pretty far up so I'm going to try for a real clean hole (that's what she said) maybe it'll be easier with angled head? Also I'm not doing a nut slot (?) in the fret board...I had/am having a hell of a problem getting my current builds have a flat shelf and 90° walls for the nut to sit. I'm tempted to file down to the neck surface at this point...thankfully I back-burnered that as the finish is drying so I have time to contemplate what to do...but I digress...(will take any/all advice!) I'm going to stain the high, flat parts of the body and leave the carved parts natural. Something like: For wood, I'm going to have a maple neck (since I already have material) not settled on fingerboard, something dark or dyed dark. Body probably maple with some nice top/bottom ... could I say pancaked? I like the look of Japanese/Tamo Ash but have no idea if I can get it...hopefully it'll end up looking something like: With the top horn being a bit narrow and upwards pointing I'm thinking the strap button will have to go on the back (location #3 or #4 I guess) ...which I'm not crazy about but see no other viable option. Unless I really go off the rails and try something like Billy Sheehan does on his baritone 12-string guitar... I want the carve to tapper down really thin on the tail and arm contour, my buddy has an Ibanez that tappers front and back to about 1/4 edge...I liked the feel of that. Thoughts? Advice? Thanks in advance!
  2. could he just move the bridge?
  3. Wait, what? I can't play this for six months? ... and if I decide to do that, should I wax after the curring? Next time I'm going to nitro, live & learn I guess
  4. painting/finishing advice needed. With the semi-gloss paint I'm doing a coat a day (on 3rd) and in between coats I'm sanding back the orange peel & dust bumps. As a test (wondering if I'll ever get a smooth surface) I wet sanded an area up to 3000 grit and love that result. But is that the way to go if I want a protective finish? Like poly? Can I poly on such a smooth surface, will it adhere? If so, how far should I wetsand? I was planning on up to 5000 grit but not polishing/buffing the semi-gloss paint but rather buff the poly finish. Or will the Rustoleum semi gloss be hard enough once polished and curred?
  5. I can only see the first half, 2nd half is just blank .... Using mac/chrome But from what I can see great job!
  6. Yes, regular wood glue works great. There’s not like “guitar glue” .... I use TiteBond
  7. The whole build is documented here...still ongoing but I’ve just began painting so wrapping up my first build(s) soon
  8. I’m not sure what you’d call this place, but it’s right down the street from my house https://www.exoticlumber.com
  9. Poplar was my choice for first build, I paid $28 USD and got enough for 2 guitars so only $14...but I’m painting mine so if you want something prettier worth showing grain maybe not for yours. Happy building!
  10. First coat of paint on. I ended up using Rustoleum semi gloss and so far looks ok. Black and Ivory Bisque (which is pretty close to vintage white) I plan to do min 3 coats, wet sanding in between. Then probably use Minwax rattlecan polycrylic....thoughts? No going back on the color but I’ve not bought poly yet. I have Truoil for the necks, planning on doing entire necks even painted headstock with trueoil
  11. Both are very cool, but like Bizman the Pennant guitar gets my vote. Funny, unlike Bizman, I prefer custom body styles
  12. Stellar work! ... that what my kids call "a dad joke" but I proudly own it Wish I owned this guitar too
  13. Awesome work, is that scratch plate shape your design? Pick guards that don't closely follow the body shape really add extra visual interest IMO.
  14. Ha, my family does say I live down here but my "shop" is actually the laundry room in our basement. I've stored the old couch here (translation: I'm too lazy to take it to dump) that comes in handy as a 2nd soft, anti-dent surface for in-progress projects. Plus it has sentimental value as my daughter was practically birthed on it 14 years ago...I leave the details of that delightful experience to your imagination (you're welcome)
  15. Yep, I've got a bit of sanding ahead of me yet. I hope not, it seems like the "simple things" are taking me the longest. I've omitted my 3 attempts at carving/sanding a well fitting nut. Also, nobody gave me a heads up on how much bone stinks when sanding! One of the many failed neck carves...and on good wood that one. At least it found a purpose. I can't take credit for the tube-in-clamp idea, I saw it in a few YT videos...but it is way helpful to be able to spin/turn it while spraying. Especially since I was spraying towards an exhaust fan pointing to an open door (not visible as I'm standing in that spot for the pics)
  16. First coat of primer...really shows the imperfections & grain that I guess I didn’t fill quite enough. Going to fill again & sand back a bit before next primer coat not too terrible I can work with these
  17. So far yes. I don't have separate spray booth yet. Looks like a Dexter kill room
  18. Good luck! Since I'm not yet finished even one I have limited advice -- but the members here are full of wisdom and are super helpful. Looking forward to seeing your build!
  19. I suck with planes...used my rasp-saw and rasp-file mostly...also used cabinet scraper a little. The 2nd one went faster and with better results (of course) but I also reworked the first one too
  20. At the moment it's sort of in-between a hard edge and a blended one...the lighting in that other pic makes it look harder than it is. I think I'm going to shoot for a harder line/edge, and I have to flatten out the contour as it has a bit of a hump that I think is visible in this picture. I viewed a video of someone achieving a flat angle by sanding with a whole sheet of sandpaper glued to a piece of plywood or mdf. I'm sure I have the offcut in my scrap box...but I confess I not sure what you mean exactly as I'm still a novice at all this. Thanks! I couldn't find any images online with one that has an arm contour. Don't most/many bodies in the Explorer style have that "back fin" a chamber? Anyway, I've been looking at the The Fender Meteora for inspiration and think I may take the contour further down the tail side, almost to the centerline. Will have to overthink this as usual
  21. Good tips! I'll be doing this. It is, but just the slightest bit...so a soft contour it'll be...at least on one of the two This is pretty much the same as the P-bass I have, and will be the example I work from. Again, on at least one. I have two after all and the whole point of the 2 was to learn and experiment. Now that I'm at this stage it fun to think about colors/finish. I've pretty much decided on one white and one black as that was the plan (and I love it when a plan comes together) but photoshop make it easy to explore other possibilities...
  22. I ended up drilling a bunch of in line holes and filing the switch slot....other practiced methods all had terrible results. A bit rough but best I could do. the switch in bridge position is way close to volume knob...but the switch top is gigantic. Might swap it later. made some truss access covers, maybe need some shaping as they’re pretty big put one all together minus wiring and strings, feels ok! I’m wavering on the arm contour...afraid it’ll ruin the body...undecided
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