Jump to content


GOTM Winner
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Lumberjack

  1. Yeah, it scoots down on the right hand side. I think I'm going to end up prying up the staples and straightening that out, it's too bothersome to leave it be.
  2. Got some tolex on there, cane grill cloth, leather corners and handles. Tolexing, I'm discovering, is quite a struggle. This was far from perfect, lots of learning to do. Still have to make face plates for the chassis and a logo.
  3. Been forgetting to update this; the amp has changed a lot since I posted the video above. I decided to move this into "amp I'm actually gunna play live with" territory, and my buddies and I mostly play covers from the 60s/70s/80s/90s, stuff like Zeppelin, ZZ Top, Bon Jovi, AC/DC, etc. so that's what the changes are aimed at. OD channel is warmer and more "classic" sounding, lower gain, with an effects loop as well. I also added a clean channel based on the Deluxe Reverb, but with independent pre-phase-inverter gain and master, along with a framus-style mid control and a tilt-shift EQ knob that covers bass and treble. The pre-amp circuit is currently structured somewhat like this: I'll sound demo all the changes once the whole thing is finished, in the meantime I've been building a simple pine headshell for it to live in. Very simple/crude dowel joinery. Just kinda hacking this thing together since it will all be covered and I don't really care what it looks like underneath. Going to do tolex, leather corners, cane grill, etc.
  4. Thanks! Right on about the water - I wasn't exactly sure how this bend would work, or if it would at all, so I figured I'd try to set the bend a bit before hand on the scrap body so the clamp up with glue wasn't as wet, nor as extreme a bend.
  5. Welp, can't have a month go by with no entries, right? This was my first "real" commission build - I sold some guitars that I built a long time ago, but never took someone else's design from the ground up and made it a reality, so this was a new experience for me. He's a big fan of PRS guitars, and his design choices obviously reflect that; it's the Custom body shape with a flat top, basically. He had a Strat with a neck he really loved, so I took some contour gauge and caliper measurements of that and duplicated the thickness and profile as closely as I could. Specs: - 25.5" scale, 24 Jescar stainless frets, abalone position and side markers. - Indian rosewood fretboard. - African mahogany body. - Curly maple top with natural faux binding. - Curly maple one-piece neck with 2x carbon fiber reinforcement rods. - Seymour Duncan Custom 5 and 2x Classic Stack pickups, 5-way blade, volume/tone/tone - Gotoh tuners. - Hipshot bridge. Didn't get a long demo recorded or anything, but this is what it sounds like through a 1987 Mesa Mark III+ And that's about it! Cheers my dudes.
  6. Here’s a quick bit of noodlin’ I recorded before sending it off - not exactly a proper demo, but i didn’t have much time.
  7. Thanks so much guys! It was pretty satisfying to try my hand at a high gloss again, it's probably been 10-12 years since I've done it. I remember why I stopped doing them (tons of work) but it sure does look purdy.
  8. Thanks guys! Happily the customer was thrilled. He’s still sending me clips of him playing it as we speak
  9. Okie dokie, that's a wrap! This is really my first proper commissioned build, and I'll be delivering it to its new owner later this evening. Really hope he digs it! I sold some guitars I built a while back, somewhere around 12-14 years ago, but I've never taken someone else's "dream design" all the way from sketches to finished guitar before. Honestly it was a pretty nerve-wracking experience. This is probably the best sounding guitar I've ever built though, and has a looot of natural/acoustic sustain for some reason. I'll post some video/audio in a bit.
  10. Great to see you pushing ahead on this project - reading through the years has been fun!
  11. Thanks for the kind words! I’ve gotten away from the flat gloss as well, really don’t do it anymore unless it’s specifically requested. I think the more woodworking I’ve done the more interested I am in leaving the wood be, pores and all.
  12. None used - I shoot finishes as thin as possible and don't normally fill pores for matte and satin finishes. I wanted to see what it would look like if I didn't fill on a gloss finish, as I prefer no filler for matte/satin, but in my opinion it looks odd; high gloss and raw/natural are somewhat aesthetically opposed, don't think I would do a finish like this again.
  13. Got the wet sanding and buffing done today:
  14. Sure! I didn't get a picture of this particular guitar in that stage of the process, but this is what it looks like from another one of my builds: I tape off everything but the areas that will remain natural with automotive-style pinstriping tape, then seal the natural areas with a few coats of something clear (sanding sealer, acrylic, lacquer, whatever will work with your top coats). Then I stain, but since the binding or surrounding areas are sealed in a few coats of clear, any dye that gets on them can easily be wiped off while still wet, or scraped when dry since it can't sink into the wood. I'm sure there are other methods, but for that PRS-style faux binding this is the only thing I've found that keeps the lines crisp and clean. For this build I didn't seal the neck/tenon area though; I just taped it off with the same pin-striping tape I use on the binding and when I got close to that neck/top joint I switched from my dying rag to a little paint brush. The grain of the top and neck are perpendicular and are also separated by a glue joint, so taping it off and carefully bleeding the dye along the top up to the joint kept it clean.
  15. Thanks guys! The faux binding does takes a bit of time, but it always seems worth it in the end.
  16. Got the top stained and sealed: Fretwork done as well: Sealer sanded flat, top coats applied and dried: On to wet sanding and buffing!
  17. Thanks all! Re: fretboard species, I got it from Allied Lutherie and if I recall correctly it was a marked "b-grade rosewood" with no other differentiators, so I'm actually not sure of its origin other than that AL called it rosewood. May very well be East Indian, it looks very similar to their Indian rosewood listings.
  18. Carvin’ time. Profile roughed in. Profile and volute/headstock pretty close. Volute medal inlay and tuner holes finished. Carved a little wire spooling and outlet area for the neck pickup. Made a truss rod cover from left over fretboard rosewood. Side dots. Neck glued and roughly shaped in. Current state of things. My goal is to be spraying finish this week, so I’ve got a lot of work to do!
  19. Got a lot of work done on this build and forgot to post about it - mega pic dump coming right up. Sorry for the inconsistent color/quality, some were taken on a phone and some on a camera. Scarf stuff Routed for truss and carbon fiber rods. Direct mount hardware countersunk and installed. Fretboard glued, neck/headstock bandsawed. Inlays. Fretted.
  20. Confession: the amp has been done for weeks but I tore it all apart and have been designing my own ever since, here's where we stand so far! This has been insanely fun. Can't believe I put off this hobby for so many years, I've been enjoying it like I never imagined! Very satisfying to finally get my hands in there and work towards the sound in my head, although to be honest I'm still a long way from reaching that goal. Still have to settle on a bunch of component values, amp features, layout, parts, etc. before I lock in to a headshell design. I'll be sure to share all that stuff as it happens!
  21. @curtisa Ok great, I had a sneaking suspicion that there might be a lot of these sorts of debates/disagreements in the amp world, similar to the stuff you get with people comparing IC chips and such in pedals. Not that it doesn't matter, just that it might be smaller 'taters in the grand scheme of things. Either way I'm curious to see if it has an audible effect, if I get any excess hum I may look to straightening those leads out first. Another question for you; I wired the jacks with the recommended shielded cable, but wasn't sure whether to twist them or not? I couldn't see the advantage to doing that technically since the current is so miniscule, and it's shielded, but I kinda wanted to do it for aesthetic consistency, and wasn't sure if that would be good or not. Most pictures I see have no twisting on the inputs. In the meantime, I made some more headway: Turret board leads added and board mounted. Leads dressed, jacks wired, output transformer leads braded, etc. Still have the control wiring to do and looots of clean up; excess leads poking out of connections, dressing, etc. All in all I'm shocked at how quickly this is going. I'll be busy tomorrow so I'm not sure if I would be able to finish this weekend, but I'm guessing I'm about 3ish hours of work away from tube testing. Mentally I'm still operating on a guitar-building time table, which take me at least 2 weeks of full time, all day work to do from start to finish, so this feels like light speed. Granted, I'm anticipating plenty of head scratching and troubleshooting before it's stable and I have yet to build its head shell, but still, I didn't think it would move along this quick.
  22. Mounted the transformers, and got the power transformer wired up: Dry fit the board, got the tube, control, and ground leads to add before solder. I've made all kinds of mistakes; everything from soldering a lug before all the leads that belong there were actually there (not just once either...) to reversing the IEC neutral and hot leads, some of which are actually in these pictures from before I caught them. Before I did any voltage testing I ran through the circuit from start to finish checking the joints and leads, which is when I was able to track down those errors. After my first run through and fixing the errors I found, I ran through it two more times and couldn't find any, so I plugged in and did my voltage testing; happily everything is getting the voltage should! Question for anyone with experience (or even an opinion, actually): I shared the images of the heater wiring on a different forum and someone noted that I had twisted the heater leads of the same type once they split off from the main line to the tube, i.e. in this post the pictures show the el84 sockets with red at pin 5 and black at pin 4, but between the pins and the main heater line I twisted wires of the *same* polarity, whereas the twister heater line is red/black = reverse polarity at about 6.3v and -6.3v. The commenter pointed out that the reason builders twist those heater wires is to cancel hum, which works because their EM fields oppose eachother. However, with the twisted wires of the same polarity the potential noise picked up by that portion would be additive, not suppressive, due to the fields being the same polarity. Is that 3/4" or so bit of twist worth worrying about? Should I straighten them out? This amp will be fairly high gain, so extraneous noise is definitely on my mind. The fellow who brought it up wasn't able to provide any sources to read or even an anecdote from his personal experience, it was purely a theoretical thing, but it still got me thinking...
  • Create New...