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I definitely have less experience than all of y’all but here’s a few things I can think of to try to diagnose the problem: can you get access to a high speed camera to try to film the string vibrating and watch it in slow motion? They’re expensive but maybe you can find someone in your area who has one or a university that has one and would let you use it so you could see exactly where the string is hitting something to make it buzz. Another thing I’d do is compare the geometry of your fretboard to one that doesn’t buzz. Like make a spreadsheet and use a caliper to measure the distance from the top of each fret to the bottom of the string for every fret on both your guitar and on one that doesn’t buzz. Then if there’s a big difference at any of the frets, try to make the distance on your guitar match the reference guitar by leveling or sanding or whatever. If they match and there’s still buzzing, then the problem is probably not the geometry of the fretboard but could be happening at the fret you’re playing. I wonder if it’s a fret crowning issue, I’ve seen some bad reviews on fret crowning files, and maybe crowning frets the old school way with a triangle file would help. Best of luck.

Got it thanks! Wired it up and it works as expected. I was having trouble following the signal path when it was in series and split but now I see how it cuts out the north coil by shorting it rather than sending it to ground. Makes sense now that you explained it.

I I found this diagram for a dual coil split wiring with a master series parallel switch and I have a couple questions. Should the circled connection be there? or should that go to ground instead of to the north start? I don't get why you'd want the north and south finish to connect to the north start. Also would this wiring let you simultaneously split the coils and run the two pickups in series? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks! That’s a relief.

Not talking about but slots but the actual channel that the nut sots in. I’m almost done with my first guitar and I realized that because of the size of the frets and thickness of the fretboard, I don’t have much room to cut a channel to put the nut in. It’s a Gibson style nut from graph tech. I’m worried if I cut a channel in the headstock at the end of the fingerboard, the action at the nut will be too low. Do you think I can get away with just gluing the nut onto the headstock right up against the end of the fretboard? Or would it not be secure enough without some wood on the other side to hold it in place?

I’m working on my first build and I was planning on clear coating with spraymax 2k poly. But after doing more research I’m not sure I want to risk exposing myself to the Isocyanates. Has anyone used the solarez I can’t believe it’s not lacquer clear coat? How durable is it and is it beginner friendly? I’m looking for something that can get pretty high gloss and take a beating but won’t kill me or my neighbors if the wind blows towards them so the zero VOC aspect is pretty appealing. thanks

Gotcha that’s probable a better idea. Thanks!!

I started building a guitar back in high school about 10 years ago and never finished it and I finally have time to work on it so I’m getting back into it. Looking back over what I have, it seems I bought .09” plastic binding, but I only have a router bit and bearing to do a .06” channel. Can I cut a .06” channel, glue in the .09” binding, and use a flush cut bit to route it flat? Or will the plastic melt and/or look messed up afterword? thanks