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RonMay last won the day on October 24 2020

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About RonMay

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    McAllen, Texas

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  1. The steam neck reset was a partial success. I reduced the string action distance by 0.050". However it's still way to high and too much to take off the saddle and still have some saddle left with enough string break. So, I'll be doing it again and increase the amount of time that in applying the steam. Here's what she sounds like and a Merry Christmas, a day late, to everyone here at Project Guitar Forum. My fingers just won't move like they used to and I am way out of practice with the little skill I even had but my late brother's guitar is sounding great. I'm using GHS Silk and St
  2. Today I did the "steam neck reset". I did it like in the video, but used a dial indicator at the bridge / saddle end to measure how much "lift" I was getting when lowering the top. I raised the straight edge the amount I figured, and noted where the position was in relationship to the saddle and it ended up being about ,200" raise. I totally expect some spring back in 3 or so weeks when the clamps come off, so I may have to do the procedure again. The luthier in the video mentioned that it might take 2 or 3 times, but I think this might actually do the trick.
  3. I would use a compass and make several circles with it on some card board and use those as a make shift radius gauge. Is that a professional luthier's tool, no, but it could do in a pinch until you get the metal ones. I do believe the radius also gets a little less the closer to the nut you get as well, but I wouldn't swear to it. If I'm off base I'm sure some actual builders and luthiers will set you straight. Ron
  4. The larger the radius the less noticeable or "flatter" the radius appears. Compare the radius of a golf ball with the radius of a basket ball. Radius is only the distance of a circle from the center to the outside diameter. The longer the distance the larger the radius. This is coming from a machinist point of view . Ron
  5. Yes she is. It's been around three months but well worth it. It's been over 20 yrs since I played regularly, but I'll get there with a lot of practice. It's amazing how tender my finger tips are right now. Time to build some calluses. Ron
  6. It's time for the Regal to sing. It's time to put some strings on her and see how the neck looks. I'm going to use some very light gauge strings called "silk and steel" they don't put a lot of pull stress on the neck or bridge. These are 10 gauge. Most likely I will most likely switch to 11s after it's all said and done, for these strings will sound very thin.... well because they are thin. http://www.whip-basics.com/forum/img/smilies/big_smile.png First I had to put in the saddle and I sanded it down until it was a light press fit into the saddle slot. I u
  7. I spent yesterday morning sanding, polishing and then waxing the soundboard and she don't look half bad now. Ron
  8. @Bizman62, it did. It's almost exactly in the same position. I thought it was going to be a little more forward than the original, from what I measured, but it ended up being for, the most, part the same. Next will be to string her up and check the questionable neck angle. Ron
  9. I took off the clamps today and it turned out pretty nice.
  10. There is a confirmed case, I can't remember where now, of a guy that was killed in a motorcycle accident, but because he had been tested for the China virus by the coroner, he was listed as a virus death and not because of an accident. That was just one, how many others were there before people started paying attention. Any death in a hospital got paid more for a virus death than a non-virus death. Some records were "doctored" to gain the system. So, the numbers cannot be trusted until an investigation has taken place to verify the actual COD. Ron
  11. @mistermikev, they aren't that hard, just open them up all the way then close them down to just where it will clamp. That way I was ready to apply them right after I put the glue on. I got them on Amazon, but they weren't cheap, almost $20 each. But that's a small fraction of the cost to have a luthier do it. I made some cauls for the top of the bridge but these clamps wouldn't open up enough to use them, with cauls on the inside,so I just used some leather to protect the surface of the bridge. I also super glued some small wooden cauls onto the bottom of the clamp so they wouldn't dent t
  12. Thank you @Bizman62. I hadn't thought about it but now that you mention it that does sound like a good idea. Those dark lines are kind of distracting. Ron
  13. Today is the big day when I glue on the new bridge. The bridge is made of rosewood and it has natural oils that need to be neutralized before spreading the glue on it. So I used some fingernail polish remover which is basically acetate for that on the bottom of the bridge. I then, using an artist's brush, spread the glue all over the area making sure that I had 100% coverage and did the same to the bottom of the bridge. I then positioned the bridge to some pencil lines I made for this. Next came the clamps. I've put the guitar in her case to wait for the glue to cure
  14. Before I glue the bridge I want to camouflage the areas around the bridge area where some of the finish came off through the finish to bare wood when I took the old bridge off. I made some stain out of instant coffee and water and used another piece of wood, about the same color as the bare wood, and used that to test the color matching process. Before After Ron
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