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Everything posted by Nicco

  1. Thanks mate. Yeah, I clamped a 1m ruler on the neck and centred it sat the nut and at the 24th fret, then used a set square to project the scale length down to the surface of the guitar, and also used the ruler to draw my neck centreline on the body. I was reasonably confident it was a good centre, I must have checked it about 40 times. Ha ha. But when I read Mike's method, that is a far more sensible way of doing it! Ha ha. The Schaller documentation had the hole centre dimensions off centre line, so I double checked that against the physical bridge and it was correct, so I've jus
  2. Thanks Mike, Yep, your post makes sense, thanks for such a detailed reply. I actually dove straight in after Bizman's comment (shed time is hard to come by, so took the window when i had it, ha ha) so it was all done by the time I saw your post. I had a bit of a panic when I read your advice on how to get the centre line, that is a much more solid approach than I took. I went out and rechecked using your method and I'm about 0.5mm off centre; I can live with that, but definitely considering that lesson learned! Thanks again
  3. Hey guys, I was hoping to get a little advice from you all with regards to the bridge placement. The bridge didn't come with any mention of where to drill the posts with respect to the scale length. I've seen info saying I should have the bass side set longer slightly (by about 1.5mm) than the high side, but I've also seen info saying it should be square to the centre line. What's the right approach to take? I would have thought the process should be something along the lines of: 1. Mark scale length 2. Position bridge square to that with scale length being halfway thro
  4. Figured you guys overseas might get a giggle out of this; got out to the shed to do some non-guitar work over the weekend and needed to grab a rag from the rags bin... was met by this little fella! He's a King's Skink. They grow up to about 55cm long and are one of the (I think actually the) biggest skink in Australia. Anyway, he's made the shed home and he's welcome to stay because they are territorial and fight off any snakes!
  5. Hi everyone, merry Christmas and happy new year to everyone. Bizman, sorry, I never responded. Ha ha, thanks though. I've got AutoCAD on my work computer, so could sneak that in as a lunch time job. Made life much easier. Been pretty slow going since Christmas, barely managed to get to the shed, and it's been bloody hot on the days I have been able to. But, I've finally made the neck pocket now. Eeek! Went well in the end, I tweaked my dimensions since that last post, and took on the advice about sinking the neck in a bit lower. Made a routing template, then another ca
  6. Worth noting all my dimensions are in millimetres.
  7. Hey gents, yep, definitely taking on board the suggestion around not taking the word of the documentation. I will measure that for sure. As far as making sure I understand how this all works though, I've attached a drawing of how it should all fit together. Does this look right? Are the values I'm using for underside of string height at the 1st and 12th fret right?
  8. I managed to get the body top glued on over the weekend, plus flush routed the edges then out the binding channel in. I toyed around with using a beautiful looking piece of 12mm Marri (a Western Australian hard wood) as the top in a last minute substitute with the Tassie Oak, but in the end decided against it because of the weigh... the 12mm top weighed more than the oak and blackwood together for the complete body! I'll save it for another time when I have the tools to turn it into a 3mm veneer top! Ha ha. Photo attached just for the hell of it. Onto needing a little advice though
  9. So progress has been ticking away slowly, but I'm really happy with how it's going. Both the control cavity covers are now shaped. I've left them as a tight fit for now so I could press them into place and sand them flush with the rest of the back of the body without them moving around on me. I also had a feeling I wanted to do an inlay in the body to match the fret board inlay. After much laying out of pieces, procrastination and mulling over, I decided to do it. Very glad I did, I'm really happy with how it looks. I also played around a little with some Tru Oil on the back o
  10. Thanks AD! And yep, I'm very happy with the bridge so far. I had the in laws visiting this weekend, so that was a good excuse to go and steal some shed time! Made some really good progress. I fixed up the control cavity (still made a little mistake, but much less bad than before and can cover it up with the cavity cover. Chalk that one up as a learning experience I've also put the chamfer on the under side of the body, put in a flat on the inside of the control cavity that will be where the jack plug goes through to the outside. Then got started on the control cavity cover.
  11. Yeah, it's a great looking bridge, it's a Schaller Signum. Cost me more than I wanted to spend, but it just looked so good! Ha ha. I also figured that if I was going to the trouble of building the whole guitar, I might as well make it the best I could. The guitar I made back in 2015 had a Floyd Rose on it, but in reality I don't think I've ever actually used it in anger, so I wanted to try hard tail this time.
  12. So I managed a little more time lately. A little bit if two steps forward and one step back though. Ha ha. So for the router tear out; that's now fixed. I've reshaped the end a little and actually reckon it fits the overall shape better now. Key is going to be not tearing out the top when I get to the same spot! I also spent a bit of time marking out the positions of the control cavity, the pickup selector switch cavity and the channels to take the wiring. There was a bit of disappointment around the control cavity though. ☹ I ended up sketching it out in situ on the body, the
  13. Hey Curtis, Yeah, I'll have a play with some of those ideas, thanks. I think the flipping it over would be a good one around those trouble spots. I'd already tried to take off as much as I could, but I've only got a jigsaw, so there were a couple of close calls where the bottom of the blade got a little wayward. Ha ha. Rasping it down though is another good idea. I'll try that on the top. Thanks!
  14. It's been a few weeks since I've been able to get a crack at the guitar again. Managed to sneak in an hour today, so got the tassie blackwood lower part of the body outside rout finished up. It came out mostly really well, very happy with the shape, but unfortunately got done pretty bad tear out at the top of the neck pocket. I've got more than enough meat in there to reshape it to suit, but still a pain. In the photos below, i left a bit of meat on it when I did the second pass, which is why there's a weird ledge there. Does anyone have tips on how to avoid tear out in the first p
  15. Yeah, that sounds like a good way to tackle it. I was also thinking about using a couple of dowels as well. Potentially could even leave them permanently between the top and bottom pieces so long as they don't poke through the surface. I got a little more time in the shed today, even though next job on the list was sanding the neck I couldn't resist jumping forwards a little and rough cutting the body and cap. Then I couldn't resist putting some turps on the blackwood and doing a mockup with the bridge and pick ups. Ha ha. I did a very rough layout of where the carve w
  16. Of course. That's a great idea. Thanks for that!
  17. Thanks guys for the kind words again, especially coming from guys who make such amazing long instruments. I'm definitely enjoying working through this and try to push myself a bit on the design. As for the carve top, Bizman, it's the order of operations that's got me a bit flummoxed. I want to do binding on the front which I was planning on using a router and template bit for, so I need to cut the channels before I do the carve but after the top is glued to the back of the body. The only two ways I can think of to get the exposed edge of the top thinned out like you've said a
  18. Oh and it's worth noting, I drew the f hole in there, but I'm planning on doing a carve top... i think trying to go hollow body and carve top is a bridge too far for me at the moment
  19. Thanks for the welcome guys. Yep, really hoping to get to turn this into a finished guitar soon. Realistically with time constraints it'll be a while off still, but slow and steady I should get there eventually. Ha ha, yes, the turps on the wood is very addictive. I've used quite a bit already! Ha ha. This will be my last couple of photos for now, this brings me up to date. Over the weekend just gone I finished rough shaping the neck. I tried using a spoke shave but didn't get much joy, so resorted to using a rasp. Definitely a butcher's tool, but it got me to shape pr
  20. From there I glued the fret board to the neck, trimmed the edges of the neck blank and head stock, then moved onto the inlay work on the fret board. I was originally planning on just doing timber dot inlays, but they just looked kind of boring. I went hunting on Google images for some inspiration and found something very similar to what I settled on. The blue inlay is a reconstituted stone. The light timber inlay is an off cut from the neck blank. Then I used side dots in the front to finish it off. I made a few mistakes when I radiused the fret board and ended up sand
  21. Next step was starting on the neck blank, I got the truss rod routed in, then cut the angle for the top of the head stock. I don't have the right tools for that job, so ended up cutting it with a cheapo hand saw, then just cleaning up with the hand plane, very happy with how it came out
  22. First step was cutting the fret slots. I wasn't sure how to do that and figured if I couldn't work it out there wasn't much point continuing. Ha ha. I tried a few methods to cut them by hand but my accuracy was at best so so. In the end, I made up a little mitre box jig and cut it with my small laser cutter.
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