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sumphead

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Everything posted by sumphead

  1. I'm looking for input and someone who can print a custom logo for me. I am willing to pay, but time is running out. My son's first project is a strat refinish/rebuild. ALA Alder Squire Body, MM neck, HOT GFS pups (light metallic blue and maple stick). I wouldlike to get him a headstock logo that screams I am the coolest 13 year old ever. Any ideas? Tribal, Celtic... Thanks in advance R-
  2. I was going to offer to send some solvents and scraps, but combustables across the border is a big no-no. Look in the phone book under plastics for a local fabricator. They should be able to get you cut-offs for next to nothing to practice on and should sell weld-on solvents. Look for weld-on#16 or #5 (liquid). It should be fairly cheap. I would think the #16 should suffice just fine. If you got another chunk of 3/8" you could try to laminte them together. It takes a bit of practice, thus the scraps, but it isn't that hard to laminate acrylics together seemlessly. Good solvent coverage and good clamps is key. I would actually consider laminating a differnt color acrylic between the two sheets of clear, it would be a pretty neat effect. If you have any specific questions don't hesititate to ask. I swear I can't type...
  3. Ahh, I can tell by the smell when cutting. I know, I know, the fumes are getting to me. Anyway extruded material isn't bad just a little more difficult to work with. Fortunately in 3/8" thickness there is only one manufacturer I know of that makes a true extruded (and it's an import). So chances are that you have what is called a continuous material, or continuous cast. Which is still extruded but pressed after for a cast like quility. It is somewhere in the middle as far as quality goes. Where do you live? R-
  4. Regular tools for the most part are fine. I cut sheet on a delta X5 10" table saw (52" beisy fence cause' hell yeah, it's heavy). Sheets can be laminated together seamlessly but it take a lot of practice. I use all different router bits from cheaper Bosch to Whiteside, so regular old router bits work fine. Again on the type of material you are using: You said you have Lucite, do you know which type? Does it still have the paper on it? Possible Lucite E, LL, or GP? This plays a HUGE factor in how you work with it as Extuded materials are not as dense as Cast and have a much lower melting point. On the table saw I use a High tooth count (110) triple chip carbide blade to eliminate blade melt and get a smooth cut. Though if you are cleaning with a router after it doesn't matter as much. HTH, R-
  5. Plexiglas is a brand just as lexan is. They all come in different grades depending on how they are manufactured. Plexiglas, Acrylite, Lexan, Chemcast, Lucite, etc are all brands of the same type material. If any of these chip it because they are likely extruded and not cast formed. They all should work fine. R-
  6. WOW, a corian guitar would weigh a friggin' ton... Lucite, though is a continuous material. meaning that it is softer than a cast material and scratched faily easily. That's not a huge deal, but crazing is. Crazing is the effect of small cracks within the material that can be seen but not felt. This is caused by pressure and contact with solvents. Though if careful crazing can be avoided too. My main concern is how you are planning on adhearing the sandwich. Acrylics are solvent welded together which won't adhear to wood and glues will destroy your clarity. There is a thicker solvent called weld-on #16 (it is essentially a solvent with solids already dissolved into it, clear) that "may" fill wood pores enough to adheare. Plasics are my realm and you have me intregued... Keep us posted. R-
  7. LOL, skibum. But I have to hand it to the Brits, after all it is THEIR language. Kinda hard to tell Noah about ark building, yeah? (even if they want to spell color all messed up and I completely agree on the whosyersister sauce) Peter, I am impressed as always by your work! Loooove that strat R-
  8. Oooo, nice. I have saw envy. I have always been a Delta guy, but I heard good things about the ridgid. et me know how it keeps up. R-
  9. I've actually been playing around with acrylic body blanks. Since I rarely build aquariums out of stock thicker than 1" (and thicker cast is EXPENSIVE!) Around $35 per sq foot for 1" at wholesale. I can laminate seamlessly but It seems like a lot of work... Back on subject, Resin would be cool, but I ditto crafty. If you can carve a mold, you can carve the wood. R
  10. I think his question is more along the lines of if he masks will the solvents mettle and mud the lines. Should he expect bleedover when using nitro? I have never worked with colors in nitro so I cannot answer, but wanted to clarify for him and me....
  11. My only theory about Godin's same scale oddity would be the neck material. If it varied enough to show differences regardless of truss then a neck with enough back bow would actually have a physical distance (strait line) between the nut and bridge shorter than a more rigid neck. Thus changing the total tension to the same tuning.... Maybe...hmmm Or we could all agree not to try to reinvent the wheel and go have a beer. :0) R-
  12. does the middle pup have differnt colored wires (different from the other two)? Like say black and white of bridge and neck pups and green and yellow or something on the middle pup? If so perhaps the wires were reversed? I did this with a set of G&L legacy pups and got nothing 'til my stooopid self caught it and switched them... R-
  13. Not exactly true, I studied hard and chose the right profession. I still have to ask permission to use my ATM card. Drak, still awiting pics, the weather should be clearing there today! R-
  14. I personally am a strat lover. I have several even though I am newer player and builder. I like the strat because of it's versatility in sound (telecaster as well). I don't like them "because" they are Fenders, nor because they are popular, or more available/affordable. The only Gibson I have ever actually spent any time with is a 1967 LP of my neighbor's. I LOVE IT, but I don't plan on buying one (especially when I can now build one *wink*). I think what it comes down to is personal preference. Kinda like a Ford v. Chevy man. AS for the relic trend, There aren't really many "cheap" Gibsons, and you don't see many people beating thier new US strats and setting them on fire either. I know I am more apt to shrug off a ding on my Charvel strat than I am my Aerodyne. For a more expensive exclusive instrument it more of a flaw instead of character. Now a naturally occuring relic from play and age in any category is true character be it a Gibson or a Squire. JMO
  15. I think he is just suggesting that it could be more than just a neck alignment. The neck could very well we strait as an arrow but the bridge spacing could be off, or the bridge was placed incorrectly. I think it was also mention that the strings were off at the nut as well which could mean...drumroll...on bad nut. Or any combination of the above. Sorry couldn't resist. R
  16. After giving much fearful thought to eBay. I'll give it another go locally and here. $2000 Shipped (a little more overseas). I did a little more research to find out this is is actually a 1927. More info on request and more pics too. http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=6/17416480440.jpg&s=x2 http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=6/17416483718.jpg&s=x2
  17. Cyano-Acrylate....yup crazy glue (this is my proud moment for actually knowing something here) What about acylic? It mimics glass of any color including opaques and can be sanded and buffed. R- Edit: Apparently my proud moment is over as perspex (must be a UK term) is indeed sheet acrylic.... *kicks self*
  18. Just from my experience (extensive router use), the best bang for the buck on the market is the Hitatchi. I have three routers, two of which are trusty porters, but the speed of the and strenght of the 11 amp, 2 1/4 hp Hitachi makes me favor it over the 3HP moster porter for almost everything. HTH, R-
  19. I am considering selling a close to mint, or as near mint as a 1928 Gibson L-3 can get. It is the small bout, round sound hole, all orginal with incredible sound. I find that I am just too scared to play it. It also has the original case with all working latches. I'll work on pictures or e-mail on request. I am looking for serious inquiries only as I am just slightly interested in selling at this point and would like to get close to $2500. Thanks, R-
  20. Sorry for the typo. I thought you had told me once you played ANTONELLI's in Gadsden, Cotton-country Alabama. It was a longshot that I was in town for a night before going to mexico on vacation. *shrugs* maybe it wasn't you. In anycase my balls are stacking up. R-
  21. See this is where the line gets foggy with hobby v. business. I assume you have a regular job or another chosen profession. For me to make logical sense of my business I SHOULD have been chargin what I could be making or more than my job right. Well If I charged $200 for a set labor and it took 6 hours I taking it in the shorts as I COULD have been at work pulling $55 an hour. Lots of should'ves and could'ves yeah? Make it worth your time. R-
  22. While I am still learning in the guitar hobby, I do own a small craftsman-type buisiness. I can not stress enough what rs said about hourly rating. It took me a while to esablish a baseline for estimating hourly requirements and used to skate around it with set labor but it will kill you in the end. On the non buisiness side, if this is just a hobby and you enjoy it enough not to do it for the green then charge what it is worth to you. R-
  23. From the acrylic experience if you shim or use multiple templates I recommend larger templates and double sided duct tape (outdoor carpet tape) instead of clamps. They will not move! There may be a bit of residue to clean up afte but it holds routing temps strongly. R-
  24. Naw, believe it or not there are a few silent fans of guys like you. You have done great things here if for no other reason than to give starters like mea next step to reach in skill. I would rather get advice from a guitar than Mr. Taco. LOL R-
  25. I have to ask; is this for a gap between the router bit and the bearing/template not thick enough? Why would you want to raise it? R-
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