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Jolly

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Jolly last won the day on February 9

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About Jolly

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  • Birthday February 9

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  • Location
    Warren MI
  • Interests
    Guitar Building, Rock Climbing, Cats, Dogs

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  1. It's currently hotwired in but I got the circuit for the final switch position finished! I used the clean boost schematic linked below with 22uf caps instead of 10uf because its what I had lying around. I also have it on a separate 9v battery currently. Anyone see a reason I couldn't just run this from 12V? Worst case scenario I think I could drop the voltage to it by adjusting a resistor or two. http://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/2014/11/jfet-boost.html The guitar is out of commission right now because I need shorter screws to reattach the bridge. Like I said the boost is just
  2. A little glass goes a long way. Between changing batteries mid build and general troubleshooting I've probably 3D printed 5 or so revisions of battery holder at this point. In the scope of all I'm trying to fit in this build I thought this was going to be an easy after thought. Turns out it was a huge pain. I feel like there one of those tasks in every project. Anywhere here's how it turned out. I split it into 3 pieces so I could print everything in an orientation without supports. The mounts I made as 1 piece with supports turned out okay but were a little rougher and requi
  3. Here's a couple of quick demos! It just my cellphone mic so go easy on the sound quality. I start both videos with the amp muted to get an idea of acoustic volume. Then I move to the raw channel and finally the tone channel. For these videos the volume and tone are on full. Also, I made it through a full battery. Just over 2 hours of play time per charge!
  4. This is really fun to play! Both the tone and volume control are pretty useful and can pull off some dramatic tone change. It's very responsive to how hard you play. It has some surprisingly nice clean tones and just gets past the edge of breaking up if you really hammer power chords. I'm going to put a fresh battery in to get a total play time, I'll record a demo at the same time. For now here's the schematic!
  5. Here's a close up of the circuit board. I still have a lot of wiring clean up to do but I'm getting close to having everything in its final place! I got about 5 minutes of playing on it and popped the fuse, pretty sure it was just some of the loose wiring that shorted and it shouldn't be hard to fix. I lost a little bit of volume going from 18 to 12 volts but also gained a little bit of clean headroom. I'll try and post another video once I get my wiring issues sorted out.
  6. I got my final tube mounting situation figured out. I started by cutting a piece of plywood to the same depth as the cavity and drilled two holes for the sockets. Its basically the same as my test board but with a little more thought put into tube spacing and orientation. I wanted to get the tubes as high in the body as I could for clearance and heat. There's not enough room to fit components near the sockets with this layout so I'm going to run wires from the pins out to a board on the left. There should be plenty of room to change tubes through the back slot.
  7. I've been consistently playing around with different amp/control layouts and found the guitar volume to be a more useful control than the amp volume for this particular setup. This simplified my "wiring harness" a bunch so I switched out the 1M volume pot with a 250K and started wiring a relatively standard esquire. Position 1 has a tone control, .022 cap, 50's style wiring. Position 2 is the straight pickup, no tone control. Position 3 is open as of now but is going to get a transistor gain stage. I want to be able to test my wiring as I go so I threw a set of strings back on. Its
  8. I just got a box of odds and ends delivered! The list includes a 250k push pull pot, various wire, tuner screws, and pickguard screws. I've been using the pickguard taped in place to protect the speaker in process. It will have to come off before I finish it but for now I figured it was worth solidly attaching.
  9. Thanks for the tip!! I've been jumping through hoops to find some screws locally and avoid $10 in shipping for $3 in screws. I finally broke down and got StewMAX so hopefully those small things don't slow me down in the future. Flingers crossed the aftermarket screws are a little better! For the last bit I've been struggling with getting the amp and battery packaging to work. It all fits but I've been having a hard time getting it to be solid and look clean. I've also cant leave well enough alone and have been fiddling with the amp circuit, trying different tubes, etc. I us
  10. How about with both the top and back joints? The back isn't glued on yet but I was fiddling with the neck and had to get a sneak preview of how it was all coming together. My original thinking stemmed from the similarities in physical construction between solid body guitars and amplifiers but I tried to capture that same spirit in the aesthetics as well. I'm obviously biased and hate to sound too surprised but its looking way better than I had hoped! Its hard to fully capture in pictures, but it has a certain vibe that's at least different than anything I've ever played. On to
  11. I cut a long skinny piece of tweed to wrap the outside of the core. Using hide glue, I started with the strip centered at the neck pocket and wrapped it around both sides until it overlapped on the opposite side centerline. Once it dried I cut off the excess tweed, roughly flush with the top of the core, so I'd have a little bit left to tuck into the grove. Unfortunately the placement of the speaker and transformer are such that they had to be installed before gluing the top to the core. This will be easy to remedy if I ever build another, but for now I just put it together and pres
  12. Thanks for the kind words everyone! I'm super excited with how well it's coming together. I used the thickest binding router bit I had, set to a depth of approximately two layers of tweed plus some glue to add channels around the top and back of the core. This should let me hide all of my tweed edges, prevent them from soaking up extra shellac or glue, and help to keep all the fabric in place. I also trimmed the excess tweed from the back of both the top and back plates.
  13. For the outside profile I basically repeated the same steps, however I traced the outline ~1/4" out from the plywood and started my perpendicular cuts from there. With the outside edges being visible on the final product I wanted to try and maintain a consistent tweed pattern. I had to make a few of the perpendicular cuts all the way to the wood at some of the particularly tight radii but these few exceptions should be easy to hide.
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