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Jolly last won the day on December 5 2020

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    Warren MI

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  1. I left it hacked together for way too long because of how fun it was to play but I finally got the nerve to tear it apart and get back to work. I pulled the electronics out and took detailed notes on the wiring, still haven't turned it into a schematic but I'll get around to it sooner or later. I also mixed up some shellac to test finishing options. This is my first time working with tweed, and shellac for that matter, so I wanted to try a few configurations to see what looked best. Board 1 has straight shellac, board 2 has a little amber dye mixed in. On both boards the left tweed sample
  2. The first demo is though my Line 6 Flextone III, no crazy settings or effects. It's hard to see the controls in the video so here is what I did. I start on the clean Channel, tone 10. Leaving the tone at 10 switch the the rhythm then finally lead channel. I roll the tone back to O and then work up through the rhythm and clean channels. With the tone still at O I head back through the channels with a little bit of soloing. All of the passive components are switched by leg one of the selector switch Clean: .02uf Tone Cap Rhythm .047uf Tone Cap Lead: Cocked Wah Cap/Resistor Pair
  3. A benefit of working with low voltage tubes is obviously safety. With no possibility of deadly high voltage floating around it made it a lot easier to tweak the circuit on the fly. I drilled the hole for the output jack and wired it up as shown in the schematic. I don't have a stereo cable so I haven't tested the return feature yet but its seems to function as intended; the onboard amp runs with no cable and I can still get a passive signal out when plugged in. Switching back and forth between those options I started swapping around components and signal paths to try and dial in my 3 "channels
  4. That would be ideal, I'm only searching for other options because of sunk cost in the 18V battery I have. When I originally sourced it I was thinking more about packaging than electronics, all of the 12V drill batteries I found had stop tabs that increased the thickness past what I was looking for. In hindsight that wouldn't have been a big deal and would have simplified everything else but... here we are. If there's ever a next one it will be 12V for sure!
  5. Solid idea, I'm not sure exactly how the switch operates but it still couldn't hurt to set it up this way. https://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/127/1/12U7.pdf http://www.r-type.org/pdfs/12k5.pdf The tube data sheets list the heater voltage range from 10 - 15.9V with a drop in life expectancy operating on the high side.
  6. This schematic was mostly to figure out signal flow but it should give a little insight into the amp workings. The values below are what I used in for the demo; minus the tone pot, "effect loop", and selector switch. I also had no negative feedback. I used a combination of borrowing from other schematics and what I had laying around so they probably aren't final values. Figured it was worth chasing out packaging and signal flow issues before I got too hung up on designing for tone. C1: .022 µF (Tone) C2: .1 µF C3: .022 µF C4: .015 µF C5: 2.2 µF (electrolytic) C6: .1 µF R1:
  7. As a quick update on progress I pulled the back off and made a 1/4" plywood spacer so I could reattach the neck. With the back now open I mounted the transformer. It was my last heavy component with location options so I mounted it low and as close to the back as practical as the guitar is a little neck heavy.
  8. Alright, here she is! The first video is just a quick overview of the setup. I have the pickup going straight into the amp and then the amp output going straight back to the guitar speaker. I have a 12V supply running the tube heaters and the 18V battery running the rest of the amp. It has almost no headroom right now so the demo's are both fully cranked. This is just my cellphone camera and mic to give everyone a rough idea of the volume level. Let me know what you think!
  9. The tubes are currently on the bench but the idea is to get them on board after a little more test and tune. The battery will take up the bottom part of the slot where you can see the "bridge plate" now. When its finished it should be an all in one package; pick it up, turn up the volume (its a switched volume pot) and get to rockin' At this point I'd say its far from impossible! I've certainly got a few big hurdles left but I've proved out enough of the individual elements that I'm confident it will come together. I also weighed the guitar as it sits with a box of remaining loose compone
  10. With it this close to playable I couldn't help but install the tuners and throw some strings on it. I have a lot of setup issues to start chasing down so it currently plays like garbage but... I obviously had to plug it in to get a feel for how it sounds! My prototype amp was being finicky so I started by plugin into my 5W Kustom Defender tube head. It confirmed my wiring was good but started uncontrollably squealing with any more than 1 - 1.5 on the volume knob. I moved back to my 12V amp and did a little bit of debugging to get it functioning again. The results.... Surprisingly good! The wat
  11. I split the body back into three pieces to do some general deburring and cleanup using a razor blade and sandpaper. After that I put the top on and finished the neck pocket taper using chisels and sandpaper. I had to put the back on to screw in the neck or else the screws would have been too long but luckily, similar to the mill set up, the top is still removable with the neck in place. With the top off I screwed on the speaker, bride, and control plate. The screws that came with the bridge were too long for the plywood and I wasn't confident they'd hold so I added a piece of scrap pine as a
  12. I then reattached the top with screws and dowel pins and rough cut the profile on the bandsaw. Finally I used a combination of disk and spindle sanders to finish the outside profile. I also cleaned up the pickup cavity with the spindle sander.
  13. Because we clamped directly to the core we were able to remove the top plywood without changing our setup. This allowed easy reference to the top features without additional layout along with improved accuracy between pieces. The first step was milling out the "speaker cab", stopping just short of the bottom plywood. This also included a battery slot and a shallow speaker clearance slot. Then two holes were cut using a hole saw to start the back slot. Some quick passes between them with an end mill finished up the mill work.
  14. I've made some major progress! After pulling all of the screws out of the core blank I screwed the plywood to the top and back. I put the screws in places that wouldn't be effected by cutting the inside "speaker cab" or the outside profile. This let me process the blank as one piece even though the top and back aren't glued on yet. I traced the outline on the top sheet of plywood and then started laying out all of the other features that needed to be cut. I worked off of print dimensions for most things but the pencil marks provided a much needed sanity check along the way. I cut a few small p
  15. I decided to use hide glue for this build because it could do double duty for the wood work and applying tweed. This was my first time using hide glue but it seemed to go okay! More on that when I unscrew the blanks tomorrow. I tried several different dry set ups but I wasn't getting anything that felt solid enough with the clamps I had. Since much of the outside and inside of the blank is just extra stock anyway I decided to screw it together. No wood is going to show on the finished product so even if a screw hole makes it past the profile I'll just fill it and move on. I used the leftover
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