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Jolly last won the day on February 9

Jolly had the most liked content!

About Jolly

  • Birthday February 9

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  • Location
    Warren MI
  • Interests
    Guitar Building, Rock Climbing, Cats, Dogs

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  1. I'm going to save push-pull for a later project. All of the off the shelf transformers I've found so far are a little too big. The next iteration will certainly be heavily inspired by the Fender reverb driver circuit. I've gotten a little more "wood work" done. I used a chisel to scrape off as much glue as possible from the top of the stair treads. That was followed with a little bit of sanding. Before: After: I'll likely end up doing a little more sanding before its done but this is pretty close to the look I'm going for. I wanted to get them roughly cleaned up and "flat" before cleaning up my glue joint. There's a pretty big difference in thickness between what was the front and back of the stair tread as shown above. There was certainly some variation in my splitting cut but most of that is from wear, these were some well used stairs! I'm going to attempt to get the two top sides (paint side) as flat as possible to each other, then come back and flatten the back relative to that. Hoping to end up with something like this:
  2. The information on that converter was sparse for sure, its worked for the proof of concept though. I've thought about designing my own power supply to get a little more voltage and have control over all the specs but its hard to pass on a plug and play package. I took a trip to visit my parents last weekend and got all of the wood processed into rough blanks. I'm still not 100% on the finished specs yet but here's what I'm thinking as of now. I'm pretty confident in my plan for this one. This board is pine or fir or something similar that's been sitting in my dads garage for ages, I have no idea how exactly how old it is or where it came from but I've been thinking it would make a good guitar for years now. It's going to get a Baltic birch plywood top/back and tweed wrap similar to the last build. I'm thinking it's going to get a p-90 for the neck pickup and a mild to somewhat heavy relic job. I've yet to try and relic anything but I love the look of a beat up tweed amp and I think it will transfer to a guitar well. This one is going to be all wood salvaged from Detroit. The body is going to be a glue up of 2x4's and the top is from the maple stair treads. My experience is somewhat limited but this was the hardest maple I've ever worked with. The end goal for this one is going to be a double bound, 3 tone sunburst finish with a standard tele neck pickup. This one is also going to be all wood salvaged from Detroit. The body is another glue up of 2x4's and the top is also from the maple stair treads. This one is going to be a little more experimental but I'm going to try and keep it a little rougher and really show off the "reclaimed". Ideally I'm going to sand the top and show off all the layers of paint from over the years. There's at least 3 or 4 different colors along with some cool wear, nails holes, etc. The back will be clear coated, possibly even leaving the saw marks and aged wood look. This one will also get a standard telecaster neck pickup. The tweed one is going to be right handed for sure, I'm not sure which of the Detroit ones is going to be the lefty yet.
  3. I've played around with the amp a little bit. It passes sound but it doesn't have as much volume as I'd like and the overdrive is pretty much non existent. The two potentiometers in the picture adjust the cathode resistance of each stage. With that, I've played around with different settings and nothing was close to "it". Even using the built in clean boost from original tele the most I could get was a mild crunch and it was still a little off. My next move is going to be a topology change. I'm going to try to run both stages of the tube in parallel for the power amp and use an op amp or two for the pre amp. The DC-DC converter certainly isn't the most efficient, but I think its power draw is still pretty mild compared to the heaters.
  4. Thanks! The benchtop exciter tests have gone pretty well so I'm optimistic they're going to work out. I didn't really keep track of signal phase in the first build but my hunch is that I can use the mechanical "feedback" in the system similar to negative feedback loops common in amplifier design. I'm going to make this a 2 channel amp: a clean one that has negative mechanical feedback, and a lead one that has an additional gain stage switched in. That should also flip my mechanical feedback to positive, ideally adding sustain and controllable feedback, like you'd get standing in front of a cranked amp. I'm not exactly sure how it does it but this is the power supply I've been playing with. It can convert 12V to ~220V. My test amp is pretty noisy, I don't think its the power supply but I haven't ruled it out yet. https://omnixie.com/products/nch6300hv-nixie-hv-power-module I took a look at some Lipo RC batteries. For now I like the clean packaging and quick swap setup drill batteries allow but I think the Lipo's might be good for some future, more power hungry/space limited projects I have planned. Thanks for the tip!
  5. Hey All! This build thread is going to be a sequel to my last build. I'm going to build three this time, one left handed and two right handed. The last build was mostly a proof of concept; I wanted to see how everything would fit together and where the potential issues were. I didn't know what I didn't know about designing a self-amplified guitar. It turned out pretty decent so it's time to take what was learned from the first build and put together a more refined design. This build is going to focus on using top quality and readily available materials, preferably common to the guitar community. The individual specs aren't all worked out yet, but here's what I've got so far: Amp: I'm going to use a single 12AT7 tube and a Fender reverb transformer for the output. The low voltage tubes sounded great, but I'm a little worried about their availability and they are a little power hungry for the volume you can get from them. I'm shooting for a little more headroom and volume with this build. I've mocked up an amp already but its relatively uninspiring still and needs some major tweaking. https://www.tdpri.com/threads/battery-powered-single-12at7-build.1081567/ Body/Speaker Cab: That might be misleading because I'm going to try and ditch the speaker. It was one of the heaviest components and the large hole in the pickguard is asking for trouble. I've done some preliminary tests with surface transducers and think I'll be able to make that work instead. This setup will also make room for a neck pickup! The open back can be a little annoying and occasionally catches on things. I'm going to move the battery to the edge of the body and generally alter the construction/layout a bit Neck: I'm still going to go with a premade neck to save a little time and setup. I'm going to get it unfinished though to give my own finishing process a go. I've been looking at best guitar parts for this but haven't really started buying parts yet. Progress To Date: Besides lots of planning I've bought some wood already. It was sourced from the Architectural Salvage Warehouse of Detroit, highly recommend walking though if you ever find yourself in the area. These are 2x4's salvaged from a deconstructed home in Detroit, likely pre 1930's based on the dimension of the lumber and surface finish. I don't know the exact species of pine or anything like that, but I rummaged through the pile until I found some exceptionally light examples that had a nice ring. The boards were mostly de-nailed but there were a few stragglers to remove still. I also scored some thick maple stair treads and a bit of mahogany trim for a rainy day. Wish me luck!
  6. The Telebusker Hey Everyone! Up for consideration is my 4th guitar/1st tube amp build. This was mostly built in my basement with a few trips to visit friends and family with a wider selection of tools. Shoutout to ArcticWhite from the TDPRI for the name idea. The inspiration for this build came from mashing together a vintage blackguard esquire and champ amp. I wanted a way to play electric guitar for short bursts that didn't require much setup. I was also chasing that "cranked tube amp" tone at household volume levels. The Specs: Reclaimed Pine Body 1/4" Baltic Birch Plywood Top + Back Fender Standard Series Neck (Maple) Tweed/Shellac Finish Hot Hide Glue McNelly A5 Signature Tele Bridge Pickup 1/4W 12U7 & 12K5 Tube Amp 12V 1.5 Ah Lithium Ion Drill Battery Quam 4" Speaker Build Thread: Demo Video: Pictures:
  7. I have a bad habit of getting a guitar playable and neglecting the last 2 or 3 small details to really finish it. Well, I finally got around to it on this one. I think its officially done. On to the next!
  8. I've been too busy playing to post anything lately, this guitar is really hard to put down! I ran across my original photoshop concept today and figured it was worth showing the side by side.
  9. The only transformer is the output transformer. The amp runs straight off of the 12v battery, plates, heaters, everything. These tubes were designed to be battery powered for car radios back in the day. That being said the plates will handle up to 30v, a CWVM might work to bump the plate voltage and maybe squeeze out a little more headroom. I'm going to build a right handed version of what I already have designed next, but I already have plans to try something like this on the next prototype
  10. I'm still working my way towards a proper demo but in the meantime here's a quick clip of the distortion channel! A few observations from the first month: The battery lasts plenty long. I've played through a few charges start to finish but your ears are usually done by then anyway. I'd say on average I get 3-5 days of mild playing on a charge Speaking of ears, its a great volume. The straight tube channels you can play pretty much indefinitely. With the solid state boost channel you start to feel it in the ears after a bit but nothing compared to even the smallest "regular" tube amps. Nothing like having a fully cranked tube amp you can talk over. It "broke in" really fast. That's something I'd normally associate more with acoustics but the first week or two of playing this really "loosened it up" a bunch. This is speculation but fingers crossed the extra vibrations from the speaker is going to "age" this guitar well beyond its years.
  11. I smoothed out my toothpick fix with a chisel and some light scraping followed by a little paste wax. I also super glued on another layer of grill cloth to the back of the grill guard. I had one taped in there for my last round of testing and didn't notice any adverse effects on the sound. Having two layers hides the speaker much better. Before I started putting parts on I gave the body a round of ceramic coating. You basically mist it on and wipe it off. Not sure how much it helps but figured it couldn't hurt. At this point it was basically assembling a normal tele. And the final weight, including the battery and such, is 8.5 lbs.! Surprisingly its actually a little neck heavy. I still have a few minor details to clean up and haven't done a proper set up yet but once I get all that done I'll post some better pictures and sound clips. in the meantime...
  12. Here it is with some shellac! 6 coats to be exact. Its hand rubbed with a process resembling French polish The rag has a bit of behkol on it wrapped around a shellac soaked cotton round. The finishing schedule was as follows with steel wool between most coats: Coat 1: 1 part shellac to 3 parts behkol by weight Coat 2: Same as first Coat 3: I'm not exactly sure where my cut ended up but I took 1.5 oz. of my original mix and added another 1 oz. of behkol. I also added 2 drops of vintage amber dye. Coat 4: Same as coat 3 plus 2 more drops of dye Coat 5: Original 3:1 cut, no dye Coat 6: Eyeball cut. I was running low on mixed supplies but wasn't happy with coat 5 so I added a little more behkol and a few more shellac flakes.... I'd say it was thinner than the 3:1 but not by too much. A little bit of paste wax for easy clean up and a superglued in toothpick should take your eye off of the extra headstock hole.
  13. Got everything masked off and ready for shellac!
  14. Look closely at the b string, it's got a little extra help staying in place. On the bright side...
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