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Everything posted by Jolly

  1. How about with both the top and back joints? The back isn't glued on yet but I was fiddling with the neck and had to get a sneak preview of how it was all coming together. My original thinking stemmed from the similarities in physical construction between solid body guitars and amplifiers but I tried to capture that same spirit in the aesthetics as well. I'm obviously biased and hate to sound too surprised but its looking way better than I had hoped! Its hard to fully capture in pictures, but it has a certain vibe that's at least different than anything I've ever played. On to
  2. I cut a long skinny piece of tweed to wrap the outside of the core. Using hide glue, I started with the strip centered at the neck pocket and wrapped it around both sides until it overlapped on the opposite side centerline. Once it dried I cut off the excess tweed, roughly flush with the top of the core, so I'd have a little bit left to tuck into the grove. Unfortunately the placement of the speaker and transformer are such that they had to be installed before gluing the top to the core. This will be easy to remedy if I ever build another, but for now I just put it together and pres
  3. Thanks for the kind words everyone! I'm super excited with how well it's coming together. I used the thickest binding router bit I had, set to a depth of approximately two layers of tweed plus some glue to add channels around the top and back of the core. This should let me hide all of my tweed edges, prevent them from soaking up extra shellac or glue, and help to keep all the fabric in place. I also trimmed the excess tweed from the back of both the top and back plates.
  4. For the outside profile I basically repeated the same steps, however I traced the outline ~1/4" out from the plywood and started my perpendicular cuts from there. With the outside edges being visible on the final product I wanted to try and maintain a consistent tweed pattern. I had to make a few of the perpendicular cuts all the way to the wood at some of the particularly tight radii but these few exceptions should be easy to hide.
  5. I've started covering it in Tweed! I used hot hide glue for this so there are some gaps in process pics but I'm going to try and give a pretty detailed explanation of how I did it. Hide glue is pretty forgiving and allowed me to soften spots with a hairdryer and fix minor mistakes along the way. I started by drawing a centerline on the back side of the tweed along with locating marks so I could quickly flip the back and position it so the fabric pattern was where I wanted it. I covered the back with glue, flipped it into place, and kept pressure on it for several minutes. I repeated the sam
  6. The last loose end as far as "woodwork" was something to hold the battery in place. I modeled a receptacle in fusion 360 and 3D printed it. This one is just a test, I have a little bit of wood filament left from my 3D printed guitar that I'll use for the real deal. It includes a wiring channel so I can hide some of the wiring that needs to run between the top and bottom sections. The placement of the battery is such that you can see the built in charge indicator.
  7. I finally have enough stuff figured out to start moving towards permanent assembly. I super glued dowel pins into the top and back plates for locating. I then used wood filler putty to fill all the in process holes along with a few other minor defects. With everything filled and in place I gave it a final sand with 180 grit. I tend to like the look of blocky Teles vs deep round overs so I just broke the edges with sandpaper. The tweed cloth makes a bit of a radius when bent over a sharp corner so between that and the slight edge break it should end up about where I want it.
  8. After some slight delays I've finally made a bit of progress! I used a hole saw to begin turning the pickguard into a "grillguard". I used the cutout piece to test a few different processes and settled on this method. First I scuffed the entire surface, when I left it shinny in the test it was easy to see unevenness in the glue. I cut an oversized piece of grill cloth and stretched it a little bit by taping it to a flat surface. I then spread a thin coat of superglue onto the scuffed pickguard and placed it face down on the stretched cloth. After the glue dried I went around the perimeter of t
  9. I left it hacked together for way too long because of how fun it was to play but I finally got the nerve to tear it apart and get back to work. I pulled the electronics out and took detailed notes on the wiring, still haven't turned it into a schematic but I'll get around to it sooner or later. I also mixed up some shellac to test finishing options. This is my first time working with tweed, and shellac for that matter, so I wanted to try a few configurations to see what looked best. Board 1 has straight shellac, board 2 has a little amber dye mixed in. On both boards the left tweed sample
  10. The first demo is though my Line 6 Flextone III, no crazy settings or effects. It's hard to see the controls in the video so here is what I did. I start on the clean Channel, tone 10. Leaving the tone at 10 switch the the rhythm then finally lead channel. I roll the tone back to O and then work up through the rhythm and clean channels. With the tone still at O I head back through the channels with a little bit of soloing. All of the passive components are switched by leg one of the selector switch Clean: .02uf Tone Cap Rhythm .047uf Tone Cap Lead: Cocked Wah Cap/Resistor Pair
  11. A benefit of working with low voltage tubes is obviously safety. With no possibility of deadly high voltage floating around it made it a lot easier to tweak the circuit on the fly. I drilled the hole for the output jack and wired it up as shown in the schematic. I don't have a stereo cable so I haven't tested the return feature yet but its seems to function as intended; the onboard amp runs with no cable and I can still get a passive signal out when plugged in. Switching back and forth between those options I started swapping around components and signal paths to try and dial in my 3 "channels
  12. That would be ideal, I'm only searching for other options because of sunk cost in the 18V battery I have. When I originally sourced it I was thinking more about packaging than electronics, all of the 12V drill batteries I found had stop tabs that increased the thickness past what I was looking for. In hindsight that wouldn't have been a big deal and would have simplified everything else but... here we are. If there's ever a next one it will be 12V for sure!
  13. Solid idea, I'm not sure exactly how the switch operates but it still couldn't hurt to set it up this way. https://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/127/1/12U7.pdf http://www.r-type.org/pdfs/12k5.pdf The tube data sheets list the heater voltage range from 10 - 15.9V with a drop in life expectancy operating on the high side.
  14. This schematic was mostly to figure out signal flow but it should give a little insight into the amp workings. The values below are what I used in for the demo; minus the tone pot, "effect loop", and selector switch. I also had no negative feedback. I used a combination of borrowing from other schematics and what I had laying around so they probably aren't final values. Figured it was worth chasing out packaging and signal flow issues before I got too hung up on designing for tone. C1: .022 µF (Tone) C2: .1 µF C3: .022 µF C4: .015 µF C5: 2.2 µF (electrolytic) C6: .1 µF R1:
  15. As a quick update on progress I pulled the back off and made a 1/4" plywood spacer so I could reattach the neck. With the back now open I mounted the transformer. It was my last heavy component with location options so I mounted it low and as close to the back as practical as the guitar is a little neck heavy.
  16. Alright, here she is! The first video is just a quick overview of the setup. I have the pickup going straight into the amp and then the amp output going straight back to the guitar speaker. I have a 12V supply running the tube heaters and the 18V battery running the rest of the amp. It has almost no headroom right now so the demo's are both fully cranked. This is just my cellphone camera and mic to give everyone a rough idea of the volume level. Let me know what you think!
  17. The tubes are currently on the bench but the idea is to get them on board after a little more test and tune. The battery will take up the bottom part of the slot where you can see the "bridge plate" now. When its finished it should be an all in one package; pick it up, turn up the volume (its a switched volume pot) and get to rockin' At this point I'd say its far from impossible! I've certainly got a few big hurdles left but I've proved out enough of the individual elements that I'm confident it will come together. I also weighed the guitar as it sits with a box of remaining loose compone
  18. With it this close to playable I couldn't help but install the tuners and throw some strings on it. I have a lot of setup issues to start chasing down so it currently plays like garbage but... I obviously had to plug it in to get a feel for how it sounds! My prototype amp was being finicky so I started by plugin into my 5W Kustom Defender tube head. It confirmed my wiring was good but started uncontrollably squealing with any more than 1 - 1.5 on the volume knob. I moved back to my 12V amp and did a little bit of debugging to get it functioning again. The results.... Surprisingly good! The wat
  19. I split the body back into three pieces to do some general deburring and cleanup using a razor blade and sandpaper. After that I put the top on and finished the neck pocket taper using chisels and sandpaper. I had to put the back on to screw in the neck or else the screws would have been too long but luckily, similar to the mill set up, the top is still removable with the neck in place. With the top off I screwed on the speaker, bride, and control plate. The screws that came with the bridge were too long for the plywood and I wasn't confident they'd hold so I added a piece of scrap pine as a
  20. I then reattached the top with screws and dowel pins and rough cut the profile on the bandsaw. Finally I used a combination of disk and spindle sanders to finish the outside profile. I also cleaned up the pickup cavity with the spindle sander.
  21. Because we clamped directly to the core we were able to remove the top plywood without changing our setup. This allowed easy reference to the top features without additional layout along with improved accuracy between pieces. The first step was milling out the "speaker cab", stopping just short of the bottom plywood. This also included a battery slot and a shallow speaker clearance slot. Then two holes were cut using a hole saw to start the back slot. Some quick passes between them with an end mill finished up the mill work.
  22. I've made some major progress! After pulling all of the screws out of the core blank I screwed the plywood to the top and back. I put the screws in places that wouldn't be effected by cutting the inside "speaker cab" or the outside profile. This let me process the blank as one piece even though the top and back aren't glued on yet. I traced the outline on the top sheet of plywood and then started laying out all of the other features that needed to be cut. I worked off of print dimensions for most things but the pencil marks provided a much needed sanity check along the way. I cut a few small p
  23. I decided to use hide glue for this build because it could do double duty for the wood work and applying tweed. This was my first time using hide glue but it seemed to go okay! More on that when I unscrew the blanks tomorrow. I tried several different dry set ups but I wasn't getting anything that felt solid enough with the clamps I had. Since much of the outside and inside of the blank is just extra stock anyway I decided to screw it together. No wood is going to show on the finished product so even if a screw hole makes it past the profile I'll just fill it and move on. I used the leftover
  24. Well I finally got around to doing some actual woodwork! I ripped the pine in half and cleaned up the outside edges to give me about 5.5" wide boards, then planed them down to ~.625". I was originally going to layout the blank with a square internal opening at or close to finished size to avoid having to do much internal shaping. After further consideration I decided I didn't like where that put my glue joints and it was going to waste a lot of material. I shrunk the center hole and gained enough material for a second core blank. Just for fun I stacked everything up to get an idea of the finis
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