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butnut

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Everything posted by butnut

  1. butnut
    I always dry sand primer with 400. Never heard of wet sanding primer...primer is porous and will absorb water...right into the wood. In fact, just recieved a Warmoth body today, an instruction sheet with a large warning...Do not wet sand primer...must be some bad advise going around the internet.
  2. butnut
    I've used Watco Danish oil under lacquer with great results. Just follow the directions on the can exactly and let it dry properly. On my final oil application, I use 400 wet/dry paper, the slurry fills pores/grain nicely and could actually be a final finish...but the lacquer will give it a nice gloss and durability.
  3. butnut
    Looking good...I mean bad...good bad, not bad bad.
  4. butnut
    Clear does'nt necessarily mean 'gloss'...the clear I used on my relic'd neck is an oil-flat satin...used on furniture. Gave a nice dull sheen with protection and 'clear'needed over the dry dull neck amber. Relic's are just another 'finish' option. Some guys like their guitars shiney and glossy, some like 'em dull, chipped and worn. I like both, so I have the nice ones and the not so nice ones...love 'em all. http://www.lilypix.com/photos/showalbum.ph...d=2132&uuid=729
  5. butnut
    Sorry Doc, no. I did that in my furniture refinishing biz years ago...on guitars and bikes I prefer to go nuts with kandies, flakes and pearls. I did a lot of Koa and it's amazing how the oil brings out every nuance of the grain and the way the flames reflect...gives more depth than just shooting a clear over the bare wood.
  6. butnut
    Not sure about tung, but I've used lacquer and poly over properly applied/cured Danish oil.
  7. butnut
    I know a lot of LP's with P90's were routed out for HB's...I don't think I've seen a HB in a P90 size that would drop in...unless it's the mini HB as was mentioned. I loved my Duncan P90 LP, but sold it to get a Duncan HB LP...that's how I did my swap....but I have no problem using my RotoZip to drop HB's and CC's in my Tele's.
  8. butnut
    Kiwi is a shoe polish WAX. Paint won't stick to wax. I used a wood 'toner'...amber and med brown, shot clear over that. Reranch has a neck amber toner for use under clear...it looks vintage yellow. http://community.webshots.com/photo/52686162/52687297aqzTcS
  9. butnut
    Hey Alex. I got it from Radio Shack. It's an etchant solution, but still ferrous chloride. I have my Webshot pics...that about it. http://community.webshots.com/album/52687663GDfvVi/0 I did make a small cig burn on my headstock...you can see it in the album pic above...it was a real small skinny cig... hehe Thanks Shaggy. I'm over www.telemodders.com check out the profiles for some nice Tele's. To be honest, I always hated the look of 'em. My friends SG back in the 70's had one, and I thought it was fugly...fast forward and seeing how so many guys (and gals) on the modders site have 'em, I saw the koolness in it. Of course I could'nt leave it 'stock' so my buddy made a custom wiggle stick I thought would look better than the bent butterknife.
  10. butnut
    Hey Alex. Really nice relic work. Glad the tip helped. I sometime find I have to wipe the plastics with lacquer thinner and or scuff with a fine Scotchbrite pad for the Kiwi to absorb...it might wear off in spots where your fingers constantly rub (the edge of my pup covers) but it's no biggie to rub more Kiwi on and restain it. Here's my Esquire with a mild relic, the checking really poped with a Kiwi rub...my camera can't pick up the checks...I did wire brush the hot dog plate and Chloride dip...the bridge got dipped...instant rust. The knobs were custom made stainless...I did'nt molest those. I did Kiwi my Strat neck...gave it a nice 'tan'...
  11. butnut
    The short cure time could be it. A lot of guys on the Reranch wait weeks before final sand/buff with nitro...that's why I like poly. It also depends on spraying conditions (hot/humid?) as that will affect drying too. Also how many coats, how thick you last spray went on...no one likes watching paint dry, but with lacquers, they don't have the catalyst like poly does, so it's always best to give it as much time as possible to cure before buffing.
  12. butnut
    More difficult, but not impossible. Good luck.
  13. butnut
    It only takes a minute to take off the donut. The lettering transfer sheet needs to lay flat on it also.
  14. butnut
    Unscrew the 'ring nut'. Some Epi's have the donut glued on...gotta pry it off carefully. Most graphic/art supply shops carry rub-on transfer lettering. Remove the control cover on the back of the body to hold the switch when screwing the donut down being careful not to scratch the clear coat on the donut...it's paint now, not plastic.
  15. butnut
    meh...OK.
  16. butnut
    I take a stock donut, remove the gold lettering with thinner and sand with 1200. I got a sheet of 1/8" rub on letters and go to town. I clear with lacquer and sometimes poly. http://community.webshots.com/photo/56197873/87341942NPzioB I made a few with creme edge by painting a creme donut black and remove the paint off the edge. Unless you have a HUGE donut, a few of those names suggested won't fit...
  17. butnut
    I have yet to use watebased paints, but AutoAir is the BIG thing now with a lot of airbrush artists...my friend uses only that and he is wicked good. Non toxic is a plus but they have insane colors and since you have'nt really started, you'll be fine with a new product. Nitro is so old school, it's yellows, cracks...it's a relic's dream but for custom art, go with this and use a poly clear (catalyzed) for max gloss and depth. Good luck. http://www.airheadairbrush.com/createx_auto_air.htm
  18. butnut
    It's kool, I hate to think I recommended something that somebody 'could' get hurt by...accidents happen and it's best always to use caution. I use a lot of chemicals in my detail and paint biz, chemicals of all kinds can get into your bloodstream via your skin and by inhaling...never a good thing even in small amounts. Wish more of a big deal was made during my years painting...almost never used a mask, and now my chest hurts from the slightest wiff of paint or thinners. Chemicals are great at what they can do...they are our friend just use common sense and be as safe as you can. I'm glad RC stopped asking all those personal questions when you purchase....was such a big turn off
  19. butnut
    Just what are you trying to say...or prove?
  20. butnut
    Yeah, my friend makes all kinds of knobs from stainless. Kool ideas, but I found 6 letters the most I could squeeze in. Some others I did: Smokin' Burnin' Rock More Eat at Joe's HiLo - Caster
  21. butnut
    I use this chemical...wear gloves and goggles, very nasty acid...but it works. Rinse well with water to stop the process. http://community.webshots.com/photo/52687663/52687771DDbMln
  22. butnut
    Bitchin' site. It was posted at the Telemodders site a while back...I borrowed the custom donut idea and made a few of my own... holy unholy holy crap was real popular so I made a few of those... holy crap!
  23. butnut
    Litchfield, is that metalcast paint lacquer?
  24. butnut
    I spray just like Eric said using finish nails as 'legs' like the original Fenders were painted on a work table. Handle is screwed into neck pocket. Some guys like to spray hanging the body...that's how I first did bodies. I like the finish nail way better...I saw a 'rotissorie' style paint jig that looked good, I may build one as you can rotate the body suspended within the jig. http://community.webshots.com/photo/70925377/83995344bDWeYm
  25. butnut
    Not too critical either way, I'd shoot the sides and inner horns first and the T&B after. Spraying the sides after you get a nice coat on the T&B 'could' have overspray issues on the flats.
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