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icetrey

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Everything posted by icetrey

  1. icetrey
    Thanks for all the help. I understand what you're saying. Just like most parts of building/repairing guitars, I may not have actually done it myself (usually because I lack a lot of the "specialty" tools) but because of forums and YouTube I know the process of how most projects are done. Thanks again for such a quick reply.
  2. icetrey
    I was worried it might come to that. I've never had to do a repair that major before. Unless someone else chimes in with a better suggestion then I guess now is as good a time as any to learn. Thanks.
  3. icetrey
    Hi, my Baby Taylor fell off its stand the other day and suffered a small crack in the headstock/neck area (photos below). It's a pretty small crack and if it was only cosmetic I'd let it slide but now the guitar won't stay in tune so it has to be fixed. I've done a similar repair on a Flying V (photos below). For the Flying V repair I used a syringe with wood glue and a clamp and it worked great (finished photos below) but the crack in the Taylor is closer to the headstock so I'm not sure how I would clamp it and at the correct angle. I'm also not sure if I can get a syringe into that crack. Any suggestions on how I should go about this repair is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  4. icetrey
    Thanks for the advice. I'm gonna try it with the fretboard on and see how it goes. I know how to remove it but I've never actually done it before. It's a neck thru and so messing up the fretboard would cause me all kinds of problems.
  5. icetrey
    Hey guys, my brother came across an Epiphone Flying V at a yard sale for nearly nothing. It has become my latest project guitar. The neck has a small crack in it and my plan is to use a glue syringe, apply some wood glue, clamp, then sand smooth. I'll be refinishing it anyway. My only concern is the glue getting too deep and effecting the truss rod causing it to be stuck. Do you think that's something to worry about? I think I can just apply the glue to the outer edges and be ok but I'm slightly new to this type of repair. Any help or advise would be great. Thanks. If the picture links don't work I apologize. I haven't posted in this forum in years. Also, I was pulling the crack open a lil in the pictures to show what I'm dealing with better. There's usually not that much of a gap.
  6. icetrey
    Thanks guys, made lil mock up with posterboard and even though I have nothing to compare to they look perfect to me. I also just donated to the site for your guys help. Thanks again.
  7. icetrey
    So I've been refinishing my Strat which had a type of racing stripe on it. I want the same same racing stripe but forgot to get the measurements before sanding it down. I've never used CAD, Photoshop, or any of the other programs some of the other members on here have. Is there a way to figure out the size of the stripes using the size of the bridge as a reference? Tried doing it on Microsoft Paint but if I zoom in any it gets too blurry. If there's not a good way for me to do it myself and it wouldn't take one of you very long using a program you have I'd be willing to send ya $10 to $15 through Paypal if you can find the size of the lines for me. The size of the bridge is 2.98"x1.64". Thanks for any help. http://s81.photobuck...zpsbc70b295.jpg
  8. icetrey
    You can also go to the reranch forums and find some good info there. They have quite a few people who have done fabric and poster finishes. http://www.reranch.com/reranch/
  9. icetrey
    Cool. Thanks.
  10. icetrey
    Ok. Thanks guys.
  11. icetrey
    Let me explain my post a lil better. Last guitar I painted was: 1) Bare Wood 2) Vinyl Sealer 3) Nitro (Color) 4) Nitro (Clear) Since I didn't like the way that worked out this time I was planning on doing: 1) Bare Wood 2) Deft Sanding Sealer 3) Behlen Vinyl Sealer 4) Nitro (Color) 5) Nitro (Clear) I understand what you're saying and I realize it's not a grain filler but I guess I got lucky cause the guitar is alder and doesn't have a lot of grain or is not as porous as others (I think I'm wording that right). But the Deft sealer did what I needed it to and left a smooth surface with no grains showing. Do you think I should also use the Vinyl Sealer or skip step 3?
  12. icetrey
    Sorry. I accidentally posted the same question twice.
  13. icetrey
    I've gotten through the first stage of refinishing my guitar but last time I painted a guitar the order I went was 1) Bare Wood 2) Behlen Vinyl Sealer 3) Behlen Nitro Lacquer (Color) 4) Behlen Nitro Lacquer (Clear) I wasn't satisfied with how the vinyl sealer filled the grains so I've started a new project and already sprayed and sanded smooth some Deft Sanding Sealer. Do I still need to use the Vinyl Sealer before doing the Behlen color coats or have I already messed up and need to remove the Deft because that would be mixing brands and I know sometimes that can be a bad thing? Thanks in advance.
  14. icetrey
    I've gotten through the first stage of refinishing my guitar but last time the order I went was 1) Wood 2) Behlen Vinyl Sealer 3) Behlen Nitro Lacquer (Color) 4) Behlen Nitro Lacquer (Clear) I wasn't satisfied with how the vinyl sealer filled the grains so I've already sprayed and sanded smooth some Deft Sanding Sealer. Do I still need to use the Vinyl Sealer before doing the Behlen color coats or have I already messed up and need to remove the Deft because that would be mixing brands and I know sometimes that can be a bad thing? Thanks in advance.
  15. icetrey
    I went ahead and bit the bullet and got the StewMac one. It has good reviews and I've always been happy with stuff I've gotten from them before. Also, I do hope to get into guitar building more later (when I have more tools than a router). So I guess I will need it again, and the right tool can make any job a lot easier. Thanks for the replies. I do appreciate it anyway.
  16. icetrey
    I'm going to be routing a channel for the .090" x .250" (2.29mm x 6.35mm) binding that StewMac sells. I realize they sell router bits and bearings that I'm sure would work perfect. But the bit is $47. I will probably only use it this one time so I don't need a high quality bit that will last a while. Problem for me is that when I look for bits on other sites I have trouble knowing which one I need since that don't label them like StewMac where I know exactly what it's used for. What type of bit and bearing should I be looking for since I can't just look for 'binding router bit'? If you have a certain place you buy yours from please share. Thanks.
  17. icetrey
    I've got the proper gear, just need new filters for my mask. But yea, that is definitely out of my range. Especially considering I don't get many opportunitys to refinish guitars, so it would leave a lot of unused paint. Thanks for the information though. Hopefully it's something I can look into in the future.
  18. icetrey
    Thanks for your info. One of my concerns at this point is price. To get the Nitro Paint, Vinyl Sealer, and Lacquer Reducer from Stew Mac would be $60. Plus the three colors I need (I think the ones I used before went bad but I'm not sure of their shelf life and have no way to test them without buying the Lacquer first) are another $42. From your experience would a 2 part finish be a lot more than $100? If you don't mind saying what does it cost you, approximately? Again, any other info and/or opinions are appreciated. PS: The epoxy advice you gave me worked great. And only used a lil over one tube/set. I'll try to post pics of results on that topic soon.
  19. icetrey
    Question 2 should say mix the clear* with dye. Sorry.
  20. icetrey
    Hey, I've done a lot of searching on here and Google but can't find many answers on this type paint. I've used the Nitro from Stew Mac over the Vinyl Sealer with decent results but would like to try the 2 part finishes. Some of the questions I have: 1)What brand do you use and where do you buy it from? 2)Does it come clear and you mix the color with dye or must you buy it already colored and also buy clear to go over it? 3) I read on one post that it can be applied straight to wood with no sealer or primer. Can this be done without grain showing through the finished product? 4) I've read it's curing time is a lot quicker than nitro. I'm not in a big hurry, but curious to what the average curing time is? Any additional info is greatly appreciated. I'd like to know as much as I can. Thanks.
  21. icetrey
    Aight, maybe I can find that around here. I've finished guitars before but never had any experience with epoxy? What kind of price range should that be? Thanks ahead.
  22. icetrey
    Would something such as this be ok? Or should I get stuff made more for guitars like the stuff StewMac sells? I'd just rather be able to pick up something locally rather than have to order it if I have that option. Also, anyone know of good grain fillers that are available in common hardware stores? Thanks.http://www.acehardwa...2624942.1303397
  23. icetrey
    If I were to go with epoxy what kind would you suggest?
  24. icetrey
    One more thing, I don't have any scrap 'guitar' wood. Just actual lumber like 2x4's, etc. Would that work and be ok to put finish over?
  25. icetrey
    Ok, thanks
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