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thekt88killedjfk

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  1. I've experimented a lot with parallel, pocket clearing, etc in fusion 360. I can never really get a clean and quick toolpath out of the software. It makes me wonder if something like "morph" would work better. Right now it takes about an hour to clear the stock and cut out the neck to an okay finish. I use 1/4 flat and ball end mills.
  2. For rpm, the manufacture should have a max rpm listed. Its not an endmill, you can't mill with the end of it. It IS a lot like a v-bit, just curved. Feeds and speeds will rely heavily on what your max RPM is. You can always test it out and see what is chatter free and gives you a good finish. Most of the time I'm using my own feeds and speeds rather than suggestions anyways. edit: jeez louise I just replied to a 3 yo post
  3. Yeah if op describes what he needs to his friend he would be able to make a model in vectric in seconds.
  4. Yeah I've had some more time with the dovetail floor planer this week. I disassembled and cleaned it, then shimmed it to make sure the outfeed and infeed tables were co-planer. A lot of work! However, I was able to create laminations that have less that .008" of gap over 48", which results in a gapless glue up after running the wood through my planer. I'd like to get those gaps down to .005", should be possible? I've got a better straight edge on order. Right now all I have is a level from lowes and a feeler gauge set.
  5. Okay I've worked on this for months until I've became consistent. I have some unavoidable truths I had to realize: 1) the short porter cable bench jointer I was using was not very good. Its aluminum tables and composite frame flexed easily with the loads I placed on it. I did not notice until I put a dial gauge on it and checked, it easily flexes 10-20mil. Not acceptable. To make matters worse, its length is just too short for planing 48" long pieces of wood. It works, sometimes. 2)Most of the woods I use need a sled when being used in the planer, period. 1" poplar flexes inside the planer and causes numerous issues. Attaching the poplar to a 2" thick walnut countertop sled has taken care of any issue I had with the planer. 3)Typical tonewoods have proven much easier to work with than the poplar I was experimenting with, even more so since I've switched jointers and now use a sled 4) using a jointer is a skill and requires being able to read the wood to see what will be the most effective approach. Learning this skill requires turning a bunch of boards into wedges lol. Hopefully this helps someone.
  6. Sorry for the double post. I found the box here: https://www.weiblen.de/en/woodworking/glue-pots/leimfix-glue-spreader-box/ About $85 shipped to the USA. Is it worth it? Probably not for most handy people.
  7. might have to if they don't reply. edit: looks like they're about $120 shipped from Europe. Tempting to never deal with tool clean up. I don't have a lot of space so if I could just roll a board over this and be done then it will save me time and space.
  8. I am not sure what it is called, but it is here at 39 seconds in: Would love to have that tool in the garage.
  9. Okay okay okay looks like I did not use enough glue on the previous necks but this one came out great. For whatever reason, I struggle with getting the right amount of glue but it looks like I really should be applying a 3/32" to 1/8" bead for every half inch width. I've seen some youtube videos advocating for as little glue as possible, but they were probably assuming people were putting down larger beads. I built a 12 ton neck press out of 4x4 steel square tube and bottle jacks and even that wasn't enough to squeeze all the glue out. 12 tons at ~200 square inches still is on the low side of the recommended pressure by glue companies, so I'll probably add more bottle jacks lol. Unfortunately the square tubing I am using is slightly bent, about a 1/16" over 48" so I can't really use any neck I press on it. I just wanted to eliminate pressure as a variable. Last night I didn't use the press at all. I just used the two neck jigs I mentioned and 32 clamps. Neck is straight and gap free. I'm gonna machine that neck press down flat and parallel, though. It was too easy to use.
  10. Thanks man. I'm never sure just how complimentary they should be. I just processed wood for a neck yesterday. I jointed each piece while checking in between passes by drawing a squigly line on the face I was jointing. I have not done this before but I think this is going to help a lot more than relying solely on my 4' level to test for straightness. After I got one face of each board jointed this way, I planed them in my planer using the same squigly line method. Then I finally planed them to the desired thickness. All in all, it seems the boards sit very tight with no cupping or warping. I buy s3s poplar so I expect to have to process it quite a bit. I numbered the boards so I knew the orientation in which I checked fitment. This time I used a contact cement adhesive roller to apply the glue across all boards simultaneously accept one. It looks very consistent. Hopefully all this effort will result in a better neck. Additionally I used my bad neck blanks to make multiple neck jigs, so now I got clamps on top and bottom. I got about 32 clamps on there, but that's because the 4" clamps I use will only do about 300lbs of force. I really hope this works lol. I started with a 12'x12"x7/8" board that was warped quite a bit.
  11. Did another few necks, trying to get good/consistant/eliminate variables. Last two necks have the same gap as the first pic. I wonder if I'm using too much glue? I lay down 5 * 2mm beads of glue over each piece of 2.5" wide wood, then spread it with a spackle tool/joint knife.
  12. This only reinforces my love of ash body guitars, nice mate.
  13. Looks like I needed to plane multiple passes after jointing slightly bowed boards. More even glue coverage probably helped. I did another neck and it has came out well. Will post pics tonight.
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