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Armaan

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About Armaan

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  1. Truss Rod and Nut: I am planning to use this truss rod that I have, but it’s a little rusted as you can see from the image. Is that a big problem? Would some rust treatment be enough? Should I wrap the truss rod in electrician’s tape or cling wrap before installing it? Would this help prevent any rattling sounds or help in preventing glue from reaching the truss rod mechanics? I have a bone nut and a horn nut. The horn nut is significantly lighter than the bone nut and the bone feels sturdier. But the horn nut is black and it would go better with the walnut. Is a horn nut strong
  2. Makes sense! The scarf joint was quite hard to get right. I used a hand saw to make the 15 degree angle cut, which resulted in some bursts and an uneven surface. Took some careful chiseling and sanding, as it was important for the surfaces to match perfectly for a strong joint. Gluing the joint was also annoying as the joint kept sliding with the clamping pressure. Definitely the most stressful part so far, but I think it has come out okay.
  3. Fretboard design: I sharpened the ends of the fretboard – I thought it would go well with the aggressive design of the guitar. Instead of the fretboard ending at the nut, I am now planning to have it continue for about 6mm (#1) or 8mm (#2) beyond the nut. I’m leaning towards #2 The side view would be as follows. The 6.5mm fretboard falls to 2mm under the nut and then tapers at a 15 degree angle to meet the angled headstock created by the scarf joint. What do you guys think?
  4. Yeah, I wanted to do this, but I only had 2" slats of wood to work with (before planing and correcting bends). So I had to go with a scarf joint. Although I did read that a scarf joint can be stronger than a single piece, if it aligns the headstock with longer grain - Its from this link - https://www.jazzguitar.be/forum/builders-bench/38624-what-purpose-scarf-joint.html See below one image from the link which demonstrates this.
  5. Thanks! Method 1 will probably make a better joint as there will be more surface area for gluing. Also, It will get additional strength from the fretboard that will be glued on top of it, which will not be the case in Method 2. Method 1 it is! As far as the bend is concerned, I do have enough margin for reducing thickness - so I should be fine. The bend is prominent on the side at which I have 15cm of excess material, so when I chop that off the problem will also reduce. Just pissed off at the rookie error - only way to learn I guess .
  6. Headstock angle scarf joint at 15 degrees: - I plan to make a 15 degree cut where the nut ends. To be safe, I will cut 1-2mm away from the actual line and sand it down later to the actual line after the joint is completed. - The surface marked as “A” in the drawing will be at least the length of my headstock. - I will cut at the green line before gluing the joint to get the headstock thickness I want. Is there anything I'm doing wrong or do you have any suggestions for how to go about this? I hope the tapered laminate lines will match up once I make the joint. I n
  7. Yeah. The pieces did slide a bit once I applied the clamps - I used a mallet to align them. The glue I used had a 10minute working time, so I had the time to make adjustments. I will probably use 25% less glue the next time.
  8. Update - 3 of the neck pieces were bent across multiple surfaces, which made 90 degree angles challenging to achieve. I managed by first planing one surface flat using a hand plane. To ensure it was flat, I used the edge of a meter ruler for reference and checked if light could pass through. Using this flat surface for reference, I planed the other surfaces parallel/perpendicular to this surface. I also tapered the walnut pieces so that the neck would follow the fretboard taper. After planing, my walnut pieces turned out to be 3mm thinner than I needed them to be. I revised my drawings a
  9. Got it - the joint could easily be pinched shut with the thumb and index finger, so it should be fine. I placed that piece in the middle i.e. the 3rd piece in the 5 piece neck, so that it is nicely sandwiched.
  10. Haha I guess good old paint works I spent some time working on the neck today and realised one of my maple pieces is slightly bent at one end. I will not be able to correct the bend - there isn’t enough material. If the other pieces are straight, would it be okay if this one piece has 1-1.5mm bend and I use it for my neck lam? I’ve seen posts where some recommend perfect flat surfaces for gluing and some say that bends can be sorted with well clamped glue joints. its a relatively thin piece (8.5mm) and the rest of the pieces will be flat. Hoping a well clamped glue joint will
  11. Haha! Well it worked! The shape of your 1st guitar is amazing and I really like the idea of the body slopes. The side view looks really nice - especially the sharp taper after the bridge. This would effectively be my option 4. I was not sure about access to the intonation screws at the back of the bridge, but I guess I can now assume a 3.5mm recess will not cause a problem. I think what you're doing with the bridge in the second guitar is really nice - the bridge will sit low and blend in nicely. Thanks for the detailed post - I found it very helpful. The more detail the be
  12. Thanks! The variation in the first image is what I meant as option 3 Am currently leaning towards using this option
  13. Hmm - makes sense. I'll get the laminated neck ready and reassess - hopefully I should enough extra material. @Gogzs Would be great to hear your thoughts!
  14. Got it, thanks! - I will look into this. I'm undecided on the neck profile, so I will do research and figure out whether I can live with the additional thickness.
  15. Right - this makes sense. Thanks for the helpful illustration. I assume that the angle break should start at the point where the end of the fretboard meets the neck? I guess I will need to plan the carves at the point where the bass side horn meets the body to make sure that it doesn't stick out above the neck at the point of contact with the neck. Though I think the neck angle will be small (approx. 1 degree) so it should not be too hard to manage. I will work on a plan for the angle and check it out. Re: strumming, Option 4 would certainly reduce the strumming space due to the rec
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