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ChipMonk

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  1. I don't want to start a flame-war, but I will if I must. These two videos pretty much sums up my views on tonewoods for electric bodys: TLDR; Other than the neck and fret wood, the body isn't going to make any noticeable difference. Now. Having said that. I built my desk out of 40mm full-stave Iroko and treated it with Danish oil. I love looking at it, I love feeling it and I love using it on a daily basis. I would not feel this way if I had used MDF. It would be just as useful, it would act the same, but I would not feel the same about it.
  2. I've been coo-ing over the Washburn N4 since about 1991 and I've always thought buying a replica was pointless, since I will never play anywhere near as good as Nuno. I know I'd have buyer's remorse and so I just lived vicariously through youtube videos of people playing his riffs better than me. I've seen enough now to know that I can replicate the tone by simply using the right bits in the right places. It won't be exact, but it will be closer than my current guitars: One custom Chibson with almost complete hardware replacements (the wood is good, everything else was crap), the other a 1994 Squier HSS FR, Reverse headstock, with new Pups and all new electrics. I think the point where it went from fantasy to reality was where I noticed I had almost a complete guitar's worth of spare parts in my guitar-maintenance box. I thought: "All I need is the body, neck, fretboard and some glue...". So, obviously I went ahead and bought new parts for every single item and the spares are still there in the box (they were crap, that's why they are spare!).
  3. Thanks, that makes sense. I'll have a look at tapping, but I think I don't have anything that small. No, I don't think a single copper tape's thickness would make it fit snugly, probably two would, or 3 at a push, but I wouldn't want to use that approach since I think it would affect the tone/sustain. Tiny margins, I know, but hey. I've gotten pretty bored of hours and hours of comparing bridges, so I may just stick with this one regardless. I'll try the tapping, though.
  4. Ah, sorry, this was the one with the locking grub-screw. So it's £32 for the hole and screw. Man...
  5. Hmmm, the tonepros and the Gotoh's are exactly the same bridge. No doubt. Except the tonepros name apparently costs an extra £32! https://www.stringsdirect.co.uk/parts-c4/bridges-tremolos-c252/tune-o-matic-c682/tonepros-tune-o-matic-bridge-metric-thread-chrome-p8429 https://www.axesrus.co.uk/Gotoh-GE103-p/ge103-b-t.htm
  6. Cheers, and thanks for the response! I looked at the TonePros and they look identical to the one I have, but I also found a different Gotoh one that had the locking stud grub-screw for pinning it down. Seems daft to have to pay twice the price for that feature. Feels like the price of these things is inflated somewhat, tbh. I don't mind paying for quality, but it's hard to see where these prices are coming from. I thought this would be good value, but I don't want to use it as-is. I'll at more locking ones instead. Cheers. FWIW, the 'play' in the holes is more than a little, it's not even close to snug, maybe it's because they get fed up being blamed for poor measurements, so they build in this 'support reducing' tolerance.
  7. Oh, one more reason I didn't like the Gotoh is the radius seems like a 9.5 or something. It doesn't match my intention (12").
  8. Hi, I'm building my first guitar. I started wood-working during the pandemic and also did a lot of upgrades on my electrics (complete replacements of hardware and re-wiring), so I figured there wasn't much more to do to build one from scratch (*cue laughter). So, after several weeks of research, I'm ready to get started. I ordered a load of wood and parts, but the bridge just arrived and I'm not impressed. It's a Gotoh GE103-B-T and the bridge wobbles really badly on the posts. I know this won't happen when the strings are on, but it seems shitty and I am wondering if this is a good sign or not. I can't understand why they'd do this. One other thing, the mounting screws (the ones that also adjust the height) wobble slightly even when they are fully screwed into the studs. That's definitely a bit odd. So, I'm looking (again) for a decent bridge without a tail-stop. I'm going to drill through the body to anchor the strings with ferrules, so I'm just looking to manage height and intonation at the bridge. I don't want to go with the babicz or hipshot(?) as they seem hugely overpriced for the money. I know what things are worth and £200 for a even well-machine metal is crazy. I'm happy to spend £50-100 for something good. What brands/models would you suggest I look at? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Few details about my build: Through-body neck in black-limba. Ash wings. Ebony fingerboard, bone nut. BL 500xl Bridge, SD '59 neck. (yes, this is inspired by the Washburn N4, which I've always coveted but would never buy) Will decide on the shape when wood arrives or when it's glued up, but probably something like a Yamaha Revstar with good fret access. Not sure if it's going to be 22 or 24 frets, never owned a 24 so I'm tempted, but will I use them?
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