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schrodinger

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  1. Ok so I carved the slope but it didn’t go as planned...in my never ending quest to correct any imbalances I ended up overcarving/sanding, resulting in a dip at the base. It won’t interfere with the guitar’s function, but it bothers me. Is there anything i can do to hide this other than sand more off? Feeling a bit deflated!
  2. I chose fibre glass because I like my guitar tone to sound glassy, with just the right amount of plastic to temper the haunting mids associated with a standard fitted truss rod. I considered concrete but then I didn't want it to sound like an ibanez.
  3. I know you advised not to do anything... But for peace of mind i used some fibreglass tape, and a dab of silicon at either end for good measure. With the tape I lined the sides of the slot then trimmed the excess, Seems to have done the trick
  4. I just used some thickness guages and it's more like 0.07mm on either side. The price of veneers is quite high also....
  5. Veneer...I will consider that as an option. https://i.postimg.cc/q7WrWnwK/IMG-1045.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/nhPfQ76W/IMG-1046.jpg
  6. Hey guys! I just completed my very first truss rod slot. However it is not perfectly snug - along the majority of it's length there is a 1mm gap approx (0.5mm on each side) - enough for it to rattle slightly when shaken side to side. Should I just squeeze a little silicon at each end? The adjustment nut would not fit initially so I chiselled out an opening for that. I didn't want to make it any wider as the rod is loose enough as is, and it is the tight fit at the nut end which is holding the rod in place (there's not so much pressure that the nut cannot be turned by a hex key). If I do chisel further, can i rely on the silicon to stop the rod from rattling, especially once more tension is applied? One last question - for the most part the rod is perfectly flush with the face of the neck blank....however on a few spots it protrudes by about half a mm. Any minimal pressure however and, due to minimal tension, the rod is pushed down level with the blank. Is it ok to leave as is, or should i chisel down further on this spot?
  7. Thanks guys, I’ve been spending the day sanding the body and it’s now smooth as a baby’s bottom :)
  8. Hey guys, first time builder here. Today I routed out my tele body. Good news is that I managed to do so without any tear out. The bad news? I have some major router marks and burns. It looks like I've laminated 3 pieces of wood on top each other. I'm not quite sure any amount of sanding will fix this; i tried today with 80 grit and the marks are still prominent. I have some coloured wood stain (along wiith wood filler) on the way - maybe that will hide them to an extent. Can anyone advise? I know what caused the burn marks - basically slowing down and allowing the router bit to settle too long on one spot. , But what about the marks around the entire perimeter? I used a decent 1" amana tool router bit so i don't think it was down to a poor quality bit. Tempted to buy a new body blank! https://i.postimg.cc/L5nyBWhs/65-A2289-F-3-F05-495-D-87-E8-8-D452-B7-A5-BC8.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/2yM0HxB7/7-C28-F900-BE98-4866-BD65-272-AD35035-E0.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/tRMvC9mn/954-DE869-3-B56-4867-ADC8-E2338-AF0-A210.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/XJN1Xqbd/A3277016-22-F5-45-C7-8-D56-ED83372-D525-A.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/85yKvGp3/C3271-BA9-7-DFD-4-AE8-B080-C4737-E6-C1442.jpg
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