Jump to content

SentencedToBurn

Members
  • Posts

    28
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

SentencedToBurn last won the day on June 18 2023

SentencedToBurn had the most liked content!

About SentencedToBurn

Profile Information

  • Location
    New Zealand

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

SentencedToBurn's Achievements

Apprentice

Apprentice (3/14)

  • One Year In
  • One Month Later
  • Collaborator
  • Week One Done
  • First Post

Recent Badges

32

Reputation

  1. A few updates this weekend: - Starting: I got it to start, however the starter motor speed is so slow that the motor stalls by trying to idle faster than the starter before I have the time to release the starter button. I ordered a gear with more teeth to see if I can match the idle speed to the starter, or get it closer so will see. Otherwise I will need to get my head around how bendix gears actually work so I can try and work out whether I can add that on or whether a whole new starter setup will be needed. - Cooling: taking on some constructive feedback onboard (which was actually very helpful, otherwise knowing me I wouldve left that cooling monstrosity there for longer), I decided to make a start making the rear shroud panel and trying to work out how it will be joining to the front section. I tried visualising the end result, sketching it up, etc, but this is definitely pushing my ability to visualise things, so I'm just making a start and will keep adding / chopping / changing as I go until I'm happy. So as far as the panelwork goes there is no real plan. If anyone has any interesting ideas then please drop them below. My only thoughts so far are to keep the front section partially open like you had in 1920s-1930s if you open the sides of the bonnet where the head / leads are exposed, and you have your radiator / fan at the front. Here is where I'm up to, note that I may be changing it as I go depending on what comes next. The whole section is on a long hinge so it swivels backwards for access to the starter / solenoid. I had a grill added in but removed it as it looked bad, so still thinking about that one. Rear view: Front view - note the "floor" of the engine compartnent is angled as I'm leaving an opening there for now. So this entire cover swivels towards the rear and the intent is to have a bonnet-style latch there with an easy release for the back. Then I want to have the same for the front section except the front cover will be partially open.
  2. Yeah i'm likely redoing that piece, as it was just to make sure there is sufficient cooling for the time being, using my mig with a 1mm sheet has been a bit hopeless, which is why I resorted to just spotting on the rest of it. Ive been thinking of making a cover fo the entire bottom section, like a bonnet of sorts, but sideways, and encorporating the cooling fan that way so I think that part will be replaced soon.
  3. Quick update - last weekend I installed a high volume fan as a bunch of RC nitro plane guys said it'll overheat without cooling in minutes, so figured I better play it safe. The fan will probbaly be moved as it looks a bit rubbish with that intake etc, but I'll see. Earlier this morning I finally got it to try and start - it's trying to fire up, but the starter is spinning too slow to allow it to idle and give me time to release the start button, and ends up stalling. So I've just ordered a bunch of gears for the starter with double and triple the number of teeth, so once they arrive I'm hoping to be able to have high enough starter speed to allow it to idle while the starter is still engaged. So a bunch of random problems, but they're pretty fun to overcome one by one.
  4. LOL once I add the kickstands to it it should really resemble something rideable!
  5. Hey haha absolutely, although with the nitro I believe you also get a bit of nitric acid vapour which I understand is probably worse to breathe in. TBH my biggest worry about this is having a container with nitro strapped on to you. So whenever I go to test it itll be definitely with the garage door open just by the entrance. And I've got my CO2 extinguisher ready. I also decided to make bike-like kickstands for it a bit later, so you don't have to hang it on your neck and instead can place it on the bench infront of you on stands and play it that way. But yeah playing this indoors will definitely be a bit problematic, even with the small amount of fumes it generates.
  6. The plumbing and most of the engine related wiring has been completed: exhaust, fuel in / return, air filter, and the sensors as well as the glowplug. I actually tried starting it today but the fuel isnt getting through to the carb. I think there might be a seal issue somewhere in the exhaust so I'll be checking all seals and will replace the gaskets again. But I'm also missing a primer bulb so will get one of those. Getting super close though. I ended up moving both the 5V and 3V step down circuits have been moved to the rear section of the guitar, and the Ardino will also be housed in there. Seems to be just enough space, and I'm also using the rear port with a small fan off an old nVidia card as a small exhaust vent to try drive some of the heat out. Also I've got most of my components to make my pickup, I've done some reading up and got a few small preamps to try, and have also tested the output from the step down rectifier for both 5v and 3v, and they seem surprisingly clean even while the starter motor is turning over. I didn't expect that. So it's looking pretty good so far, the main test will come once it's running though. I found I take a lot longer making brackets and components now, like the fuel line bracket had to match the angle of the shape with the body, and the same with the airfilter mount bracket. And even the mount and the position of the fuel tank, must have gone through about 6-7 options before settling on this one, as the fuel tank is pretty ugly and ruined the lines. This is probably the best spot I could come up with which is also relatively safe. That's it for now, I'm really digging the look of it now that the engine side of things is nearly complete. The shield that will protect the player's junk from the gears and the exhaust will change the shape a bit further, so will have to have a good think of what it'll look like.
  7. Awesome thanks for the suggestion. I'll have to look it up. I'm a total noob when it comes to anything remotely outside of basic gear. Last 15 years I've literally been using the same 2 pedals, the same 2 amps and 2 guitars one of which I've rebuilt. That's it. So learning as I go, most of the time it's knowing what to learn is a challenge as there is so much info out there.
  8. Hey I have actually but so far I've been a bit limited as I don't have that much space in the body. However since I decided not to use the entire rear section as an exhaust and I simply have a tube going in/out - the rest of the rear section is empty so there is a bit of space. I agree it would be awesome to have this thing plugged straight into a cab... And have a built in FX generator. The only thing I'm thinking is that if the power source isn't cleaned up well - then I'll not only have a ton of noise coming through the active pickups, but also the power source that will run the FX and the actual amp. Might need to see how it actually sounds once I get it to run and produce a sound of some kind, and then the option to improve it further is to do an internal FX+Amp build. Mate imagine doing a DIY valve amp, and have the valve mounted externally.. covered off by a metal cage of some sort. This is getting pretty out there! Awesome. Good point, although these motors are smooth - that's relative, they still vibrate quite a bit. I think you're right even with the rubber bushings separating the motor cradle and the body, and trying to insulate the motor from the exhaust it'll still probably move them around. Will be interesting to see whether like a light palm mute will help otherwise I can imagine the noise getting out of control.
  9. Mounted and wired up the gauges today. I wasn't sure if they were going to suit the overall look but as far as my own odd tastes go I'm pretty happy. First; Tacho - this is meant to read the frequency / rotation of an electric motor, but for now I'm getting no reading. I'm using a 1:1 ratio transfer from the motor to an alternator so my thought was to count the RPM of the alternator which will be the same. The gauge has a few settings though so I need to play around with it. Second: Voltmeter/ammeter. You can see the 12V battery needs a bit of a charge as it just dipped below 12, also the ammeter is set between the main fuse and the battery, so it basically shows the total current flow. In this case it's only powering the gauges and the light on the starter switch. I tested it with the starter motor turning over - it was pulling about 2Amps, which is pretty much in the realms of what was expected. Third: temperature gauge. For now the probe is just hanging, I'm still thinking of the best placement. So I'm keen to have the Tacho configured correctly and the temp probe installed before hooking up the fuel tank / glow plug wiring, last thing I want to do is overrev the motor or have it overheat on me due to the lack of airflow. I dont think it'll be a problem since the intent is to idle it, but I'd rather not risk it.
  10. Thank you! Yup I am hoping to get a bit more regular with this now like at least a few hours every weekend. The next step is to mount the fuel tank, wire up the glow plug and then keep my fingers crossed that it actually starts and runs after all this. Also have been looking up on how the pickups are wired up, figured since I have nearly 50mm of depth, and this is a Franeknstein already, maybe I should just go all in and try and make my own pickups. Worst case I'll always throw them away and order an 81x or something. But winding my own coils and putting together a basic preamp to make them active - it just sounds like it's worth trying. Just need to work out what metal is used as the core of the coils, and what's the traditional number of coils around each one etc, although can just experiment too.
  11. Getting back into this build, had a lot of things on the go, but glad to be on this again. I got the exhaust flange back from my dad's work - I only have a MIG, where they have a TIG so they were able to help me weld a different angle to an exhaust flange. I then routed the exhaust using a few bits I had laying around in my various boxes of scrap: An old brake line mount to hold the adapter between the two tubes A pipe with the connector and bolt off an old turbo oil line Some break and vacuum line - turns out these nitro motors run very cold, I didnt realise they actually run silicone tips off their mufflers, so I was told the silicone line will work fine, can always swap it out if needed though The back section shown above will the the rear "muffler" - this lines up with my initial idea of immitating the rear section of the Borderlands 3 rocket launcher which has a "jet" exhaust of sorts, so using the entire rear section as a muffler with an actual exhaust coming out of it will be pretty sweet. I will be putting together a cover of some kind (at a later stage) so the exhaust and the starter are kept away from the player's junk. And it's looking a bit more complete from the front now with the muffler mounted and plumbed up:
  12. I finally installed the battery, fusebox, and wired up the starter. Here is a quick demo of the starting sequence and the start itself - exhaust, alternator, fuel tank or the glow plug aren't connected yet so this is just the demo of how the starter engages
  13. Haha i guess the COV style from BL3 is like a cyberpunk version of Mad Max for sure. Pretty close just minus all the neon/led type of stuff. They certainly overlap on their appreciation for gas powered things.
  14. Have made quite a bit of progress: - Changed the motor mounts and angled it so it isn't as wide, which will allow me to make a separate body section to contain the motor/starter/alternator - Connected the starter motor using a solenoid, seems to work well and engages/disengages as intended - Switches / ignition key switch and other buttons have all been mounted, once I get the fuse box in the mail i'll connect it all up
  15. I stopped this build completely for a few months - being Ukrainian born and raised it felt wrong digging my head in the sand and carrying on like I did in the first couple of months. Instead I found that I was able to provide some assistance all the way from NZ by volunteering translation work, both written and spoken. I did not realise the volume of this that was required with the refugees and other administrative work. Now I feel like I can allow myself a few hours here and there to do some work on this piece, so a few updates below. I replaced the 22cc motor above with a much smaller 7.5cc nitro motor (off an RC plane). I mounted an alternator (the motor at the top) and a starter motor (bottom). The starter motor pivots so the gears engage. I've got a 35N solenoid coming in the mail which will engage the starter and then release it. Given the solenoid is spring-release it should hopefully work well, although I do have a spare set of gears I'm using on the motor and the starter, just incase. Once the solenoid is mounted - I need to sort out the fuel tank, battery, voltage reducer for the glow plug, etc. And I decided a keystart will be most appropriate here, esp since the AR in Borderlands 3 is also started with a key. Not much work to get it started, just waiting for a few more parts to arrive.
×
×
  • Create New...