RVA
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Question regarding neck construction
RVA replied to Kyle Pearson's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
Welcome! It is often done with an oscillating spindle sander after the neck is shaped. The jig used here is just one example of how to hold the neck in the desired position. -
Before and after on the Samson Before After
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I am getting closer to a final shape. This is after sanding with 180 grit. The middle is wet to show the grain. I am starting to think that a neck does not have enough surface area to provide a true sense of a quilt grain pattern.
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I have been going back and forth between an inexpensive 400 grit diamond sharpening plate, which is flat but thin, so I cannot apply much pressure for fear it will bend, and a flat piece of wood I ran through my jointer with sandpaper, which works, but the sandpaper loads quickly. I will likely buy a Trend 300/1000 grit plate, which is what Rob Cosman uses (the 300 grit side) Trend Diamond Sharpening Stone Kit, 8 x 3 Inch Double Sided (300/1000 Grit) Bench Stone with Pouch, Cleaning Block & Non-Slip Mat, DWS/CP8/FC https://a.co/d/4E8lSsX
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So when you all use a straight beam, are there any concerns for the loss of a fret wire radius that matches the fretboard? I have not used a straight beam in a long time, but it seems that the curvature will become somewhat randomized depending on the varying degree of work needed in each string path. Does this even matter? Maybe it matters less with height adjustable individual saddles as opposed to a wraparound bridge?
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Nice job on the blade! Slick secondary bevel Sharpening is my next frontier. I am in the process of flattering my water stones
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I saw a side by side comparison of EvapoRust and white vinegar. The white vinegar did almost as well. $ 4.00 USD per gallon for the vinegar!
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I think your would get marks horizontally on the sides. Marks would he hard to avoid unless fully submerged. An easy way to fully submerge things is a PVC tube with a cap on one side. Stand it up, cap down, and dump things in. All you need is a diameter just wide enough for your largest object, and then it fills up quickly,
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Can you please explain this a bit more? Don't put galvanized steel or aluminum in phosphoric acid? Thank you
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I figured out what those 2 vertical streaks were...partial submersion in Evapo-Rust, and then a flip to do the other half, so 2 marks. I decided to research it when it happened a second time with the Samson plane. They are not easy to get out, but it is possible. LKesson learned: do not partially submerge things in Evapo-Rust!
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I completed the rough shaping on this neck. This time I paid more attention to the desired final thickness before the carve.
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Very nice!! Hijack away! Please post your progress.
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" ‘J Jowett, Royal Albion, Sheffield’. It is 2 1/8 wide. Jowett were recorded as manufacturers in Albion Street Sheffield in 1911 in Whites guide. So plane will be approx 100 years old." https://barrys-woodwork.blogspot.com/2012/12/ Sheffield Edge Tool makers.pdf
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This was in the Etsy ad you posted. Nice find! The Samson Smoothing Plane #8 was manufactured by the Samson Tool Company in Kenosha, Wisconsin¹. The company was founded in 1902 and produced hand tools until 1949.
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You are an amazing detective! I agree about the Samson similarities and will research the brand.
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My dad parted with another vintage tool. I guess he was happy with my work on the others. The cap iron was repaired with a brass weld. This one is unlabeled except for Made in USA. I do believe it is a Stanley. The investigation begins!
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Thank you. Yes, those marks appeared after I took it out of the rust remover. They did not dissappear after the subsequent sanding with 320 grit. There was a similar line on the sole that did dissappear during the lapping process, so I assume they are faint scratches that I could sand out with a bit more effort, but as you said, I was not going for show piece. BTW, the metal on this Sargent is considerably softer than the Stanley. The sole gave up the metal much easier.
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The Sargent is ready for duty
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So given the fact that the fret ends are not touched with a straight beam, and assuming that it may be necessary to take off more in one string path than another, the radius of the frets will vary from the radius of the fretboard and the bridge on fixed radius bridges. My assumption is that most think this is not an issue, or much less of an issue than the dangers of a radius beam.
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Thanks for the reply. Do you mean rotate it to an angle with respect to the fretboard edges? Presumably, since the radius is ultimately a circle, if you move the entire length left or right equally, but still parallel to the fretboard edges, it will be the same as if the middle is centered, since the radius is ultimately a circle.
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Mates, Do you level your frets with a straight leveling beam in the string path or a radius beam? Assume the same length for each beam. I have been using beams with a radius to match the board, but I was surprised to find this method rejected by many as either unnecessary, removing too much edge material or too difficult to do accurately. Before reading this in numerous places, I had considered a radius beam to be the gold standard. Thanks for any input on this issue.
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Well, after an ugly attempt to patch some tear-out in the lower curve of the headstock, and then an attempt to graft on a scrap piece, I decided to freehand a new shape. It is good as any other for this neck, which is more about learning than building. The new shape gives the grain continuity, where the scrap graft would have never been good enough for me.
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The Stanley is done. Please do not judge this as a restoration. I already got carried away by lapping the bottom flat except for a .001" gap behind the mouth, and being dissatisfied this it did not look machine clean. I coated the wood with 3 coats of Tru-Oil and buffed it out with Maguire's fine cut cleaner and then swirl remover using a Milwaukee M12 polisher/buffer. The only thing left to do is sharpen the blade
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Nice plane and nice work! Do you ever put a camber on your smoothing plane blades?
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Excellent find. I don't think mine is a wartime build. I think they lacked a brass adjustment knob and rosewood totes. I am almost certain my totes are rosewood and it has a brass knob and tote caps. I think they went to steel for many of the brass parts during the war and used a different wood
