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Fraser

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About Fraser

  • Birthday 10/23/1975

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    Brisbane, QLD, Australia

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  1. I'm really interested to see/hear the combination of 12 string and ghost system. It's looking good. I'm liking the carve on the top. Fraser
  2. very niiice. although I disagree that it doesnt need anything else....... i'm thinking it needs some little metal bits in those grooves ...
  3. I have a Line6 Vetta and I love it. I use a couple of great amp sounds, and all the stomp boxes I could want are built in too. I've never used any of the factory presets, I just start with an amp without any effects. One of the best purchases I have ever made.
  4. i don't think it is Fspaced. dimarzios have an 'F' stamped on the baseplate. Can you remember seeing it? and, no, i don't think it is normal for a pickup to end up in the wrong box or have the wrong sticker. f. how about a full pic of that guitar, looks like a metallic swirl....
  5. Hayden, thanks, it was a bit complicated I guess. I don't split the rails. The 'split' sound selects the single coil. I designed the wiring myself. The battery for the led also powers the Graphtech gear. I did look at putting in an active Humbucker in the bridge a shadow SH EQ5, maybe on another one.... To be honest I've never played actives much. one day....
  6. The Midi Volume is also a push/push pot . Down - no lights. up - lights on! That saves battery.
  7. Dude, The neck pickups work with the coil split push/push switch on the volume control. If the knob is down, you get full bridge humbucker or the neck fast track. If the knob is in the up position, you get the split bridge pickup or the neck single coil. Only one neck pickup is on at a time. Never had the desire to combine them. The fast track has a mountain of output. The OF for me wasn't just about bling, its functional. I switch pickups alot so having a visual colourful indicator really helps in the dark! I took me a couple of weeks (an hour here or there) to rout the fingerboard and glue in the OF. Spent a lot of time in design getting the routing patern to match up with the inlay. Desiging the circut for the colour changing took a little bit of experimentation Cost: Circuit was cheap, the LED was the most expensive part. The OF wasn't cheap because it is proper OF. Probably $100 in materials. As for effort, i'm not doing them on my next couple of builds, I have some other things planned
  8. Hi, all, wanted to share my second build with you. I wasn't happy with the outcome of my first full build, so I built a new one and have been playing it for a while now. Here it is all finished: There are 100 in progress photos showing the piecing together, Optic Fibre installation etc Shape: Slightly downsized RG/ Jem Shape Construction: Neck Through Neck: 7 piece laminate - maple/wenge/maple/wenge/maple/wenge/maple. Asymetric profile. Nut: Earvana Body Wings: swamp ash with inlaid wenge. Fingerboard: Ebony with Jem style Vine inlay Frets: Jumbo Stainless Bridge: Recessed Tonepros Tune-o-Matic with Graphtech Piezo Saddles Pickups: Bridge - Dimarzio ToneZone , Middle - GFS Neovin7, Neck - GFS Neovin7 and Dimarzio Fast Track 2 Electronics: Graphtech Acousti-Phonic Preamp, Graphtech Hexpander Machine Heads: Planet waves Trim Lock Controls: - 5 way Megaswitch - Mag Volume with push/push selector for coil split /neck pickup select - Acoustic Volume with Push/Push selector for Mid/Dark - Midi/Synth Volume with Push/Push selector for Lights on/off. - Toggle for Magnetic / Piezo / Both - Toggle for Midi up/down - Toggle for Pickup / Midi / Both Re-used most of the hardware but changed some of the timber and the body thickness, added a little lions claw at the Bridge, and added a pickguard. The Lights change colour with the 5 position pickup selection. Bridge - Red, Bridge/Middle - Orange, Middle - Green, Middle/Neck - Aqua, Neck - Blue. Obviously has such a huge variety of tones. Funnily enough, my favorite is the Bridge TZ split. Fraser.
  9. I Have one of those bridges. I'll take some pics. Haven't finished buiding the guitar for it yet.
  10. Thanks spoke. I thought about it overnight and decided there was no point doing it half@ssed. Yesterday I steamed off the fingerboard while watching Oceans 11. Will definitely be clamping it differently this time !
  11. Hi all, been a while for me, but I need some advice/opinions. I've been building another guitar (please forgive me for not posting progress pics (I will soon I promise!)) and have finally I glued the fingerboard to the neck using Titebond. When I unclamped it, I checked the fingerboard for straightness - because of the way I clamped it for a few days, it now has considerable relief. How much? about 2mm (0.07" or 1/14th') at the 9th fret. ok, so i'm still a noob Neck is very deep set laminated blackwood-walnut-blackwood-walnut-blackwood. Laminates glued with Titebond. It is 25.5" scale length slotted bound fingerboard. Binding is the same timber as the fingerboard glued with Titebond. Fingerboard not yet radiused but fingerboard and neck are tapered. It has a LMII Double action Truss rod and two CF rods. Rods glued with epoxy. I am installing LMII Jumbo Evo Gold Fretwire - eventually. As it is now, I can get rid of just over half the relief by adjusting the truss rod as far as I'm willing to. The neck has a long tang, so I can clamp the tang and headstock down so the fingerboard is flat. When it is clamped, the fret tang feels like it will go in ok, ie: i don't think the slots are too wide or too small. I really don't want to heat/remove the fingerboard because I believe it will delaminate the binding and the neck laminates. I think some relief in the neck will be good for my playing style. Am planning on using Optima Gold 10-46 strings. I am thinking of the following course of action: 1 clamping the neck so the fingerboard is flat. 2 radiusing the fingerboard and cleaning/deepening the fret slots 3 fretting 4 unclamping and hoping that the backbow from the fret tangs evens out the relief, maybe with a little help from the truss rod. am I kidding myself? and if so what is my other option? The fingerboard is reasonable thick so could be sanded to level, but it would look a little funny being thinner at each end. Thank you, Fraser. answers receive a photo in the soon-to-be-created-build-progress-thread
  12. ahh, so the core is 7mm deeper than the wings. nice. Thanks.
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