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Donut Man

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  1. I've seen a few bridges which have the wider mounting holes (which would fit the predrilled allparts body I'm using) but has a thinner 54mm spacing - would one of those work?
  2. I've tried sticking a shim in, which helped but it's still not perfect - doesn't seem like the pocket is wide enough to get it to the correct alignment?
  3. I just strung up the strat I'm putting together to check alignment/action and I'm having some string alignment issues - the E string is practically hanging off the fretboard above the 12th fret. Here are some pictures to illustrate the problem: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/867382/Ebay/strat%20%281%29.JPG http://dl.dropbox.com/u/867382/Ebay/strat%20%282%29.JPG http://dl.dropbox.com/u/867382/Ebay/strat%20%283%29.JPG http://dl.dropbox.com/u/867382/Ebay/strat%20%284%29.JPG I've got very little experience with setup, but presumably it has to be either: 1. Nut alignment (which, as you can see, I've messed with to no avail) 2. Neck alignment - maybe a shim between the neck and the side of the pocket on the treble side? 3. Bridge alignment - is there anything I can actually change about this? Any ideas would be much appreciated!
  4. On a different note - what pickguard do you think would look the best? I was considering a white pearl one?
  5. Yeah that's what I thought as well. I'm not sure what the correct positioning is as it doesn't really look like the pickguard follows the shape of the body exactly.
  6. Actually, I was wrong - I have a pickguard that used to be fitted to my old MIM strat (which I don't have anymore) It doesn't quite look right though...
  7. I've got this flame top allparts body I'm trying to fit a pickguard to. I've not got a pickguard to hand to mess about with to check alignment etc - can anybody with a good eye tell me what sort I might need? The problem is that the body isn't exactly strat shaped, I think, but I can't be sure, because again, I don't have an actual strat to compare it to. Thanks!
  8. The paint is flaking off all over the place and in some areas it comes off very easily just under the fingernails. Do you reckon it's possible to just peel/scrape a lot of it off and then sand the rest? The paint certainly seems a lot more brittle than the stuff I've seen in the past.
  9. I've noticed that on my Warwick there is a noticeable gap between the nut and the end of the fretboard. I hope this is due to the nut being removed and reattached incorrectly and not due to the fretboard shrinking or something? What course of action do you guys advise to fix this? Thanks!
  10. I think it's probably the factory finish. I plan on just stripping it down and oil/waxing it. The bass in question is a Warwick Thumb, as you can see the back of the neck has already been stripped by the previous owner:
  11. I've just bought a bass which has a gloss black (polyurethane, I think) finish. What's the best way to remove the finish? I've read that stuff like Nitromors will also affect the glue joins and the wood itself (It's multi laminate wenge/bubinga neck through). Does this mean I'll just have to apply good old fashioned elbow grease with sandpaper/scrapers? It's got a carved top and back too, which means it'll be difficult to use power sanders, I imagine. Any advice would be appreciated! Cheers!
  12. That sounds good. How would I go about doing that?
  13. I picked up an ESP 7 string today and the previous owner had filled in what was presumably a ding with some non-matching paint: It only seems to be noticeable under certain lighting conditions. Is there anything short of sanding the whole guitar down and refinishing that I can do?
  14. I used to have a 24.75" scale 7 string Les Paul. The B was alright, I just had to use a .68 on it.
  15. That guy makes it look way to easy. I guess having decent templates makes all the routing easy, that and the soothing music.
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