imgettingcloser

If anyone is interested in this top wood, make me a best offer. PayPal or trades. Thanks, Scott

Hello everyone, I got my hands on a great maple board and have been bookmatching some top blanks. Of course i'm keeping at least two of the best ones for an upcoming project but i'm looking at selling or trading the others as they get finished beeing glued up. As of right now I only have one for sale or trade. It is jointed, milled flat and finished sanded to 320 grit. The measurements are 15 11/16" wide x 23 5/8" long x 1" thick. It has some random flame in it and a heart shaped grain pattern in the middle would make a real nice carved top for a guitar that is going to be a solid color. I can send better pics if needed, just ask. $80.00 through paypal ( no credit cards as I get charged for it) or trade for guitar building tools or guitar parts. Let me know what you got.

Sorry for the late reply. I forget to check the forum every now and then. It is still available. I guess it depends on what you got as to if I would do a trade. Let me know what you got.

I have a guitar neck that I hade Doug at Soulmate Guitars make for a build that just never got started, I don't see it gatting started anytime soon so looking to get my money back out of it. It is a deep tenon style neck so the bridge gets mounted to the neck. Other info is below. Scale: 25.5 Finger board wood: ebony Heel type: single cut Fret size: medium Number of frets: 22 Neck woods: curly maple with two wide walnut laminets Dots: 5mm MOP located along top of fret board As I said this neck was made,shipped to me and has been stored away. Nothing has been done to it, even has the paddle headstock so you can make it whatever type you want. Price is $265 plus shipping through paypal. I'll ship it UPS within the US. First to PM me with there address gets it, I'll send that person an invoice from Paypal. Anyone with any question feel free to to post or PM me.

Ummm....you need an atom smasher like TEVATRON to achieve subatomic rearrangement! You've gone really belt and braces recently Drak :-D We'll buy you a hammer to go with your WOD set, next birthday. More likely you would need to steam the wood to reälign it in a comfortable "rest" state, same as how acoustic sides are bent or ship hulls are moulded. As a sideline, the town where my closest Finnish relatives live are building a wooden ship as a community project. Sorry, this is in Finnish only: http://www.kaljaasi-ihana.fi/ The reason I mention this is that huge long timbers are steamed for a couple of days each in long enclosures and then bent over the ships hull structure to dry/cool into their new shape as the "glue" that holds the fibres together sets. I would love to be in Luvia providing help to this project than in the UK right now :-\ This method of heating wood up (using steam as a heat transfer medium) allows the fibre structure to slip and realign as the "glue" (cellulose?) which binds them together as "wood" relaxes. I think that simple overall soaking and clamping does this in reverse, with the forces of the expanded wet fibres being forced to slowly relax back into the flat clamped shape. The soaking/drying is completely different to the process of drying wood "from green" as that is the cells giving up their water content and not the areas in between or whatever. Either way, whatever works right? On reflection, I think the application of the wood is important here - if there isn't sufficient glueing contact area on the destined workpiece, this cupping/warping might become an issue if the wood decides that it *really* wants to be in a non-flat shape. Do you have any photos of the patients, Scott? Seeing the endgrain might reveal a little as to how much cupping you might expect in the long term....flame and quilt are usually found on the quarter and quilt on the tangential plane (flatsawn) respectively. The direction of the grain and how that changes across the board can be pretty telling as what to expect as it seasons. There are plenty of other people on here with more direct experience with cutting/drying wood than myself however. I'll post some pics this weekend. It's really not that bad but needed to be flatened as I didn't want to take a chance of it deciding it wants to stay cupped after I already had a finish on it. I have left it for two days with weight on it an going to check it tonight, but looking at the edges and taking some weight off, it looked pretty good. Guess I'll have to return that subatomic partical acelerater in the morning. I hope Wally World takes returnes on them.

About how long do you leave it clamped or with weight on it?

Thanks Prostheta for the link, and Drak thanks for the thread. I'm trying to flatten it now. I went with the method of spraying the concave side with water and put it covex side up on my bench and put a bag of cat litter on top of it. So will see how it comes out. On another note Drak you have any pics of that burl guitar finished it looks great. Once I flatten this maple it going on top of chambered walnut and going to just put an L.R. Braggs T-Bridge no other pick-ups. I Want an acoustic but don't like the feel of an a true acoustic guitar. Anyway, Thanks again Scott

Quick question for everyone. I have a thin bookmatch set of maple that I'm going to use for a top. But I noticed that it has warped slightly. I was wondering if anyone had any ideas on how to flatten it? I thought maybe just wet it with a damp rag and press it between two MDF pieces for a day or two or week. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks, Scott

Hello, I'm thinking of doing another build and looking at doing a Peavey EVH Wolfgang. I don't have the tools to build a neck from the ground up, so looking for anyone that might have one they want to sell or if anyone out there is interested in building one. It will be birds eye maple neck and fret board unfinished, that I can do myself. Anyway let me know? Thanks, Scott

Just wandering if anyone has an LP Body template for sale? I'd perfer one like guitar building templates sells, with all the cutouts for the pickups, bridge, neck pocket and so on. Or if anyone can make me a copy of one they have, just let me know how much. Thanks, Scott

Thanks WezV, I wasn't shure if it they did dull over time. I'll just have to see how it looks when finished with the old pickguard on a new looking Tele. Thanks

I hope someone out there can help me. I'm building a 52 fender Telecaster and in my search for parts I came across a new old stock 52 tele pickguard. It's packaging looks like it has to be from the 60's and it has had a protective cover on it. Anyway when I peeled some of the cover off the pickguard it has a dull look to it. My question is was the old 52 tele's pickguards polished or is it supposed to be dull, and if they were polished anyone know how I can go about doing it safely to this N.O.S part?

Hey everyone, Quick question. I'm building a replica 52' Telecaster and was wondering if anyone knew if the neck had a high gloss finish or was it more like the newer tele's with more of a semi to matt finish? Also anyone know if the Fender logo had nitro over it? Thanks for the help, Scott

Hey everyone, I was wondering if anyone out there could give me a bit of info, I'm building a 1952 Fender Telecaster replica and need some measurements. I need the depth of the neck pocket, and depth of both pickup cavities as well as the contol cavity. Thanks, Scott

I'm in North Carolina, USA