MP63

Thanks. I figured it was something like that. Kinda like calling the time "nine-fifty," "ten till ten."

I have a can of Sunnyside Naphtha. I also see that here are Naphthas that are labeled, VM & P Naphtha. Besides the labeling, what are the differences in their uses. I want to thin some varnish, and have the Naphtha without the 'VM & P.' Thanks, Mike

I tried 5-minute epoxy and was very happy. Did small areas at a time.

The one available close to me said not to use poly on it. I need to check if it is de-waxed.

I recently finished a solid body with Formby's tung oil. Due to a fracture issue, I stripped the finish and on the second attempt, the residual oil caused a big problem with the water based stain. I stripped it once more and used Stew Mac alcohol based liquid stain. Color came out great. I am worried about using the Formby's again. I was planning on using shellac to seal any impurities and use a wipe on poly, but shellac says not to use poly in top if it. I do have the access to lots of spar varnish. At my work, we refinish ladders in spar varnish and I used it on a table and it came out nice. Anyone use spar varnish on a solid body before? It is McClosky's Spar Varnish. Thanks, MIke

Awesome, thank you.

I know this may sound like such a basic question, but how does one find the right location for the Tune-O-Matic bridge studs? I know the bridge is 2x from the nut to the 12th, but it needs compensation. How much? Do I measure from the first bridge saddle or the third saddle, etc.? What is the formula for adding the little extra when drilling the bridge studs? Once it drilled, there is no turning back. Thanks for any help. Mike

Got it. Thanks.

Drilling holes in my pickguard. I don't jhave the jack with me, so I seem to have forgotten what the size is on the pickgurad for the jack. The pots holes are 3/8" Jack hole size? Thank you, Mike (Every search engine is so confused by the term 'jack hole size')

How about a water based stain with Formby's Tung Oil on top? I read that Formby's is not real tung oil and that being a good thing. It will be closer to Tru-Oil than tung oil. Tru-Oil is not to be found in California anymore. I ned to cover my lemon yellow guitar. Thanks, Mike

Used water-based stain on a birch guitar. Used a great lemon yellow. One problem.... Tru-Oil is no longer available here in California. Anyone know of a good substitute? I heard Formby's tung oil is similar to Tru-Oil. How about a good poly that I can wipe/brush on? Thanks everybody, MIke

Maybe some blonde shellac first???

I wanted to get it totally ready for finish first, but the weather superseded my plans. I will have to finish it and then make sure my measurements were all correct. Thanks for the encouragement.

I am finishing a guitar I started six years ago. I did all the gluing up already. It sat in storage and my apartment for the past six years. Now, I decided to finish it up. Route some pot cavities and get it ready to finish. I used a long neck tenon joint. The tenion joint goes almost to the bridge. Everything was pefect. No cracks nor splits. Well, the weather has become really dry, usually 20%-40%. The tenon joint has a slipt at the lower glue joint. Some of the other joints look like some are beggining to show signs of splits starting. I am at the mercy of the outside environment, as that is the only place I can work on this. Short of waiting for the more humid weather, what a good fix for these splits? I used CA glue on the recent one that is the largest. That area will be under the pickgurad anyways, so finish issues won't matter. I am going to do a thorouhg sand tomorrow and stain it and then poly it ASAP. I will not have the chance to assemble it with all the parts for a teast. I think it will be on target. I should have proceded at a faster pace, but since it was unfinfish for six years, I thought there would be no more wood issues. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thank you, Mike

Rough radius, inlay and final radius. Did 100's like that.