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pullshocks

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Everything posted by pullshocks

  1. The idea here is a guitar that I can swap different pickups in and out without loosening or removing the strings. Rear-loading is an idea that many people have thought of for that purpose, and this is my version. No focus on cosmetics, just a simple poplar body, with one coat of clear shellac and 2 coats of amber shellac. I did do my typical "gut cut" profile ("Why settle for the belly bevel when you can have the gut cut") With the controls mounted to the front of the body, if I decide to change control layouts, I can just plug holes and redrill. If you look closely you can see I have already done this once. First up for audition is a pair of Duncan P-Rails, with a Gibson T-top for reference on the humbucker sounds. Each of the P-rails has a 2P4T rotary switch for p90, parallel humbucking, series humbucking, and rail combinations. The neck I am using needs a new nut, so it will probably be Saturday before I get to plug this in.
  2. For making templates, the oscillating spindle sander is the best $150 I ever spent. It lets me get very close to the line very quickly. It is perfect for inside curves but works surprisingly well with outside curves too. With the right touch, you can pull the work past the sanding drum and get very smooth curves. I still do the final fairing with sandpaper stuck on thin strips of wood, that follow the curves and take off the high spots. 1/16th thick for tight curves, maybe 3/32 inch thick for sanding the lower bouts. I have not tried MDF, but I think the same methods would work, but would be a lot dustier. For some reason I find files really effective working on plexiglass templates, not so much on baltic birch
  3. not able to view the pictures, is ther another location I can see them?
  4. Hi, I am new to this forum. I have built a few guitars, got diverted off into tube amp construction for a while, and I am really psyched to get back to doing some guitar work This topic is near and dear to me. I've tried a couple of ways to get a smooth heel on a removable neck. The most recent one uses a joint that is similar to what you show in the drawing, but with a little more complexity. The joint is a lot of extra work, but I am really happy with it structurally and I certainly have no complaints about the tone or sustain. It does have some issues related to the appearance that would also apply to the joint you are considering. If you use a surface finish, you are going to need to have a slight gap for the finish to go around the corner and into the joint. It wouldn't have to be all the way through, maybe 1/8th inch. But if you don't do that, the finish will be very susceptible to chipping or peeling. Even if you use an oil finish, your probably would need to put a slight bevel or round on the edges of the joint. Getting the gap nice and even, while keeping it very narrow....that's something I haven't solved yet Even if you manage to keep the gaps nice and narrow and even, it is going to look a little clunky, having the 2 gaps running down the back of the guitar Mark
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