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About darkshadow54321

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    London, UK

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  1. Hi guys, I have had an idea to do a build similar to a Godin Multiac. It would be strung with acoustic steel strings and essentially have a completely hollowed out guitar body except for an area under the bridge. I would leave a good mass of wood to support the bridge but everything else around it would be chambered. Guitar would be roughly Les Paul sized, maybe a little larger. A thin top would go on top of the hollowed body. I may have a soundhole in the upper bout or maybe not. My question is: as I want to avoid doing any bracing to the top, how thin can the top be? Will the area under the bridge be enough to allow me to use a top as thin as with a real acoustic but without bracing? I'm guessing probably not - if so, is 1/4" for a top the minimum? I believe that's what thinlines usually have. Although I realize that this guitar is not going to sound the same as a real acoustic because of the construction differences, body thickness, etc, I assume that using a thinner top will allow more resonance and volume. Please correct me if I'm wrong on this or if it would make little difference. I also realize that using a thinner top makes the guitar more fragile in terms of dents and breakages, etc. I am OK with that. It is still early days and I haven't researched this properly yet, but many thanks for the help!
  2. Instead of oversizing the fret slots, how about compressing the frets themselves? Would that work? Stewmac sells a tool which allows you to narrow the fret tang width. You could then just glue the frets into the regularly sized slots with ca glue. Might be easier than messing around with oversized slots and potentially getting the placement wrong.
  3. Just wondering whether you have had time to write a tutorial for the jig? I'm very curious to see exactly how it works... Thanks!
  4. Hi everyone, I'm interested in the concept of a zero fret but one of the major turn offs for me is the way they look. I hate the gap that is left between the zero fret and the nut/string guide, as seen here: I think it looks much nicer if the zero fret is right up against the nut, like this: However, I don't know of any luthiers doing this on a guitar. Why is that? I'm guessing by having it so close there may be issues with the strings being more likely to move around/jump out of the slots (especially with trem use) but I'm sure there's probably a way to compensate for that... Your thoughts are appreciated! Thanks!
  5. Hi. If Verhoevenc decides not to go for it, and if you don't mind shipping to the UK, I would take the 36mm plane. Let me know. Thanks! EDIT: Oops. Just saw it's actually the 30mm version. That's a little too small. Never mind, thanks anyway.
  6. The most accurate (and perhaps easiest) way to get a matching cover would be to route down the guitar back by 1/16" but leave the cover area proud of the surface. Make it oversized so that you can best match the grain. Use a flush cutting saw to cut the cavity cover off the body and then trim it to size. Route the cavity, etc as normal. Not sure if I explained that very well but it's early in the morning...
  7. Looking really cool! My vote is for a silver dragon on a solid black background.
  8. If you don't mind sending them to the UK, I'd also be interested. I'd be happy to pay for postage.
  9. Hi everybody, Found something else I can sell. I have 2 guitar truss rods from Allied Lutherie in brand new unused condition. They are the 17" long ones (total length 18") - item number PTR2WE here: http://www.alliedlutherie.com/truss_rods.htm. Very nice rods and they require a smaller route compared to Stewmac's truss rods. If you've always wanted to try the Allied rods but didn't fancy paying for customs charges, here's your chance! I will sell them for £13 each including postage within the UK. Within EU would be a little more. Maybe an extra £1-2? I accept Paypal. Cash on collection from London is also good. Thanks!
  10. Nice progress on the guitar. I think the sunburst suits it very well. The silly putty seems like an easy and convenient solution to the water problem during finishing. The only thing that worries me is that, according to Wikipedia, Silly Putty is "the Crayola owned trademark name for a class of silicone polymers". I know that silicone can interfere with finishes but I'm not sure if 'silicone polymers' has the same effect. Hope the guitar turns out OK! Keep up the good work.
  11. Wow, it got there fast! Glad everything is OK. Hope you put them to good use.
  12. I searched for this but couldn't find much. I'm discovering that some gloves would really come in handy for guitar work. It's getting annoying having metal or wood dust on my fingers and it's also a problem when trying to clean and polish finishes as my sweat can leave marks. Any recommendations on some general shop gloves? I'd like them to be fitted and flexible so that I have freedom of movement to do what I need to. I don't think thick heavy duty gloves are necessary as I'd use them simply as a barrier. I was thinking of getting some latex gloves. I might also consider something like this: http://www.axminster.co.uk/uvex-profas-pol...ves-prod807536/ Any thoughts on the best for general work? Could I use the same type for finishing work and handling chemicals (e.g: acetone) or would you recommend a different type of glove for that kind of work? Thanks for the help!
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