Jump to content


Established Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About darkshadow54321

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
    London, UK
  1. Hi guys, I have had an idea to do a build similar to a Godin Multiac. It would be strung with acoustic steel strings and essentially have a completely hollowed out guitar body except for an area under the bridge. I would leave a good mass of wood to support the bridge but everything else around it would be chambered. Guitar would be roughly Les Paul sized, maybe a little larger. A thin top would go on top of the hollowed body. I may have a soundhole in the upper bout or maybe not. My question is: as I want to avoid doing any bracing to the top, how thin can the top be? Will the area un
  2. Instead of oversizing the fret slots, how about compressing the frets themselves? Would that work? Stewmac sells a tool which allows you to narrow the fret tang width. You could then just glue the frets into the regularly sized slots with ca glue. Might be easier than messing around with oversized slots and potentially getting the placement wrong.
  3. Just wondering whether you have had time to write a tutorial for the jig? I'm very curious to see exactly how it works... Thanks!
  4. Hi everyone, I'm interested in the concept of a zero fret but one of the major turn offs for me is the way they look. I hate the gap that is left between the zero fret and the nut/string guide, as seen here: I think it looks much nicer if the zero fret is right up against the nut, like this: However, I don't know of any luthiers doing this on a guitar. Why is that? I'm guessing by having it so close there may be issues with the strings being more likely to move around/jump out of the slots (especially with trem use) but I'm sure there's probably a way to compensate for that...
  5. Hi. If Verhoevenc decides not to go for it, and if you don't mind shipping to the UK, I would take the 36mm plane. Let me know. Thanks! EDIT: Oops. Just saw it's actually the 30mm version. That's a little too small. Never mind, thanks anyway.
  6. The most accurate (and perhaps easiest) way to get a matching cover would be to route down the guitar back by 1/16" but leave the cover area proud of the surface. Make it oversized so that you can best match the grain. Use a flush cutting saw to cut the cavity cover off the body and then trim it to size. Route the cavity, etc as normal. Not sure if I explained that very well but it's early in the morning...
  7. Looking really cool! My vote is for a silver dragon on a solid black background.
  8. If you don't mind sending them to the UK, I'd also be interested. I'd be happy to pay for postage.
  9. Hi everybody, Found something else I can sell. I have 2 guitar truss rods from Allied Lutherie in brand new unused condition. They are the 17" long ones (total length 18") - item number PTR2WE here: http://www.alliedlutherie.com/truss_rods.htm. Very nice rods and they require a smaller route compared to Stewmac's truss rods. If you've always wanted to try the Allied rods but didn't fancy paying for customs charges, here's your chance! I will sell them for £13 each including postage within the UK. Within EU would be a little more. Maybe an extra £1-2? I accept Paypal. Cash on c
  10. Nice progress on the guitar. I think the sunburst suits it very well. The silly putty seems like an easy and convenient solution to the water problem during finishing. The only thing that worries me is that, according to Wikipedia, Silly Putty is "the Crayola owned trademark name for a class of silicone polymers". I know that silicone can interfere with finishes but I'm not sure if 'silicone polymers' has the same effect. Hope the guitar turns out OK! Keep up the good work.
  11. Wow, it got there fast! Glad everything is OK. Hope you put them to good use.
  12. I searched for this but couldn't find much. I'm discovering that some gloves would really come in handy for guitar work. It's getting annoying having metal or wood dust on my fingers and it's also a problem when trying to clean and polish finishes as my sweat can leave marks. Any recommendations on some general shop gloves? I'd like them to be fitted and flexible so that I have freedom of movement to do what I need to. I don't think thick heavy duty gloves are necessary as I'd use them simply as a barrier. I was thinking of getting some latex gloves. I might also consider something li
  • Create New...