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darkshadow54321

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Everything posted by darkshadow54321

  1. Hi, I'm thinking about adding a switch to the upper horn of a Les Paul style guitar. Problem is that the guitar already has finish on it, so I'm not sure how to create the switch cavity on the back. 1. Can I use a router + template to go through the finish or is that a bad idea? 2. Alternatively, could I use a forstner bit? I've never used one before so I worry about how accurate it would be. Any other ideas appreciated. Thanks!
  2. If you want to make it seem like it was done 'on purpose' you could add a contrasting veneer in between the mahogany pieces.
  3. I've just bought a new acoustic. Everything about it is great but the rosewood used for the fingerboard is a bit of an anaemic colour. It's that dull, pale looking shade you sometimes see on import guitars. I'd like to darken it a bit and add some depth so my plan was to oil the fingerboard with lemon oil, wipe it off and then apply 1 or maybe 2 coats of TruOil to darken the colour and seal it in. This should ensure that the colour doesn't revert back to the normal shade (as it would if only lemon oil was used). Some questions: 1. Would it be a good idea to follow up with some 0000 steel wool or micromesh? 2. Are there any other oils that might do the job a bit better? It was suggested on another forum that teak oil might be a better choice but I know nothing about it. 3. To what extent is this going to affect the feel of the board? I intend to keep the coats as light as possible and only use as many as needed to darken the colour. I'm going more for penetration of the wood rather than the building up of a finish. I realise that a finish is not normally used on a rosewood board. 4. Would the application of TruOil remove the need for periodic lemon oiling of the board? Also, I know that Feibings leather dye could be used to blacken the board but I'm not looking for an ebony effect. I want the rosewood look but darker. Thanks for the help!
  4. Does anyone have any good methods? Someone on a different site suggested putting it in a closed container filled with soapy water and shaking it around for a bit. I tried that and also hand scrubbed it but there were still some remains on the sheet. Should I try using an old toothbrush or something like that? An alternative way that was highly recommended was putting it in the washing machine in a special container but I'd like to avoid that route if possible as it sounds too time consuming and not very practical. Thanks!
  5. Acetone will melt plastic and some finishes. So it would be fine for wiping off an unfinished guitar assuming there are no plastic bindings.
  6. Wow, yes, you're right! Thanks. I completely missed it in all my Google searches. Might they be the only supplier in the UK? For future reference, the link to the naphtha is here: http://www.behlen.co.uk/Merchant2/merchant...;Category_Code= Unfortunately postage is quite expensive at £7.50. I don't need anything else from the site at the moment so I'll just stick with lighter fluid for now. Anyone else have any good sources for naphtha or comments about alternatives?
  7. I've done a search both here and on the internet generally and there seems to be a lot of confusion regarding this issue. Let's see if we can sort it out for good... From what I understand, there is no product in the UK called 'naphtha'. Instead, the closest alternative is lighter fluid which is almost 100% naphtha but also contains some additional ingredients. Some people complain that lighter fluid leaves a residue/trace. Some people also refer to 'mineral spirits' and 'white spirits' which again are variations of the same kinda thing... So, for our guitar-making purposes, which is the best thing to use? Any links would be great. Any thoughts on particular brands of lighter fluid? Ronsonol (Ronson) vs Zippo, etc. Thanks!
  8. The lapsteel looks like it's going to be a really cool project. Get to work! We want results!
  9. Thanks for the help guys. I've decided to go for it. I'll now blame all of you for the poor state of my bank account. I was talking about a non-scarfed neck... if you scarf it, yes, lots of necks! Either way, you can still get some fretboards out of it so it's all good.
  10. Looks really cool! Any chance of a full back shot so that we can see the full effect of the neck laminates? Keep up the good work!
  11. Do you mean something like this, but in a different size? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/5x-0-5mm-Carbide-Mil...1|293:1|294:200 I'm a little confused now... I thought a downcut bit would be preferable for inlay because you're seeking to create perfect crisp lines to fit the inlay piece. An upcut bit would leave slightly less crisp lines due to the cutting action, no? Also, couldn't you just use a vacuum system attached to the dremel router base to get the chips/dust out of the way while using a downcut bit?
  12. Hello everyone. I came across these bits: http://www.smallwonder-music.co.uk/shop/To...Bits/p-123-454/ Any ideas on how they'd compare to the Stewmac bits? They're a bit cheaper and located in the UK (which is good for me as I save on shipping) and seem to be essentially the same thing. The Stewmac ones are 'reverse spiral' bits. Does that make any difference? Also, what size would you recommend? My plan is to route close to the outline but then finish it off with chisels/razor blades to ensure a good fit. I was thinking of getting the T35 - 1.6mm (1/16"). Thanks for the help!
  13. I was wondering about fret tang v. saw kerf sizes as well... If the fret tang is 0.023, for example, does the saw kerf need to match exactly? Or should you look for a saw that is slightly undersized (e.g: 0.022) in case the cutting action makes the slot slightly wider?
  14. Thanks for the reply. Couldn't I use a smaller one and then use a straight edge to make sure everything is level? I'll probably go for the 16" as it's the best value, unless someone gives me a compelling reason to go for the 24" one (apart from the bling factor, of course... hee hee)
  15. Hello everyone, I've been lurking here for a while but this is my first post. I've decided that I'd like to try building a guitar from scratch, but before I do so I'm going to try refretting a beater guitar I have. While I'm at it, I'm also going to create a new fingerboard and install some side LEDs... I think it's best to mess up on a beater guitar than to invest in materials for a custom guitar only to fail miserably. I'm on a somewhat limited budget but I want to buy quality tools. I believe that the neck is the most important part of the guitar, so I'd like to have the best tools I can afford. If this goes well, I plan to build several guitars so I consider it an investment. Also, if I decide that I don't have the skills for it, I can always sell them as better tools will have better resale value... With that in mind, are these what I need? (sorry for another one of these threads. I tried the search function but couldn't find anything relevant). I will be attempting fretting with stainless steel fretwire (I know it's harder but I'd like to try it out) and with a bound fingerboard. From Stewmac: Fret press caul - http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_suppl...Press_Caul.html Fret Tang Nipper - http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_suppl...ang_Nipper.html Diamond fret file 300 grit - http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_suppl...Fret_Files.html Fret slotting saw with depth stop - http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_suppl...otting_Saw.html Fretboard leveller (is the smallest one OK?)- http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_suppl...d_Levelers.html Diagonal fret cutters - http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts....or+Fret+Cutters Fret hammer - http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts....der=Fret+Hammer Fret pullers - http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts....er=Fret+Pullers Fret bender - http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts....nal+Fret+Bender Is there anything I've missed out, or that is unnecessary, or simply not recommended? I know that things like the fret bender aren't absolutely necessary, but they make the job so much easier, so I'd consider it worthwhile. I already have a straight edge, btw, and I also plan to get a fret bevel file from somewhere. I'm really unsure which files to get and which fretboard leveller, etc. What do you recommend for SS frets? I went for the diamond ones because from what I've read they last longer and are nicer to use, but are they really worth the extra money? I'm also planning to pick up the Fretwork Step-by-Step book, or one of the Erlewine videos. I've seen the nut making and the set up ones and they're really helpful. I'd rather not pay full price for the DVDs though ($50 each!). I only wish I could use that online DVD rental service, Smartflix, but I live in the UK... Thanks for all the help and sorry for the long post!
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